ride of shame...

How can I test the relay on the passenger side fender? Pump runs when jumped. Fuse for hotwire kit and under dash for fp/inj are both good. Thx.
 
With all the hacking on these cars that I've seen, if its a nice cut with a proper cover over it, go for it- no one is ever going to know.
I've done mine twice and is a pain in the butt, mostly the emptying and refilling of the gas since it always seems to go with a full tank.
 
ryan george said:
Can anyone tell me how to test the fuel pump relay on the passengers side fender well? Thx.
Click to expand...
I think the fuel pump test lead (located behind the alternator) tests the entire factory circuit, including the relay.

It's the black one, right behind the alternator. Give it 12V from the alternator power stud and the fuel pump should run.

Green one is a tach lead.
 
try unplugging the hotwire harness and bypassing it at the tank..i had a wire rub in my kit and the car would shut off while driving and wouldnt restart..repaired it and good to go
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Rewiring the hotwire harness to the pump is a bit beyond my simple abilities.
 
To bypass the hotwire, just pull the plug assembly from the center of the connection, then reconnect the two most outer plugs.

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-G7-FPWHG.html - look at the picture labeled 'plug into the factory harness and go'... remove the plugs that come from the relay (purple/black & purple/red connectors). Let those hang and reconnect the original factory harness which has the orange and grey connectors with the wiring running up into the trunk. Then you'll be back to running off the factory wiring system for the car. May help you troubleshoot your problem.
 
So the car will be running, but the hotwire kit won't be functioning? Is that just to tell me if the hotwire kit is the problem?
 
Isn't running now, so wouldn't still be running. Seems weird, I guess it would be due to the wire somehow getting cut from sitting in the garage over the winter, or the relay not working for some reason.
 
You said you used the test lead under the hood and the fuel pump came on but still wouldn't start. I like to unplug the under hood light, then plug that wire into the test lead. Hmm are you sure you have spark?
 
HouTX87 said:
You said you used the test lead under the hood and the fuel pump came on but still wouldn't start. I like to unplug the under hood light, then plug that wire into the test lead. Hmm are you sure you have spark?
Click to expand...

If I understand correctly, he gets the pump to run when he hooked the test lead under the hood, but pump doesn't run with the key. Is this correct ?
 
Then it's either the relay or the wiring to the relay...that's exactly what the test lead is for to isolate the problem to the control side of the wiring or the actual power portion.

My bet is relay unless you see something visibly wrong witg the wiring.
 
Slow91z said:
Then it's either the relay or the wiring to the relay...that's exactly what the test lead is for to isolate the problem to the control side of the wiring or the actual power portion.

My bet is relay unless you see something visibly wrong witg the wiring.
Click to expand...

Agreed relay problem..
 
My fuel pump relay was bad: no pump with key, got pump with test lead. It would eventually start with 2-3 long cranks when enough oil pressure was built up to trigger the backup relay. Got my replacement relay from Highway Stars, car started right up. After living with all that cranking for a couple months, it was the sweetest moment. So easy and cheap to fix too. Now my starter is going bad, probably from the years' worth of cranking I spent in just a few months.
 
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