We have a 1986 Buick Regal Grand National with a bad starter motor. We have taken the bolts out - now what is the secret to getting it out? We have the manuals and no where does it talk about our car. The transmission lines run under the starter and part of the exhaust may or may not be in the way. Help! (My husband doesn't trust the local mechanics. Early on it was in the shop and we found out the mechanic had the car out for a joy ride!)
Replacing Starter Motor
- Thread starter NCTurbo
- Start date
We have a 1986 Buick Regal Grand National with a bad starter motor. We have taken the bolts out - now what is the secret to getting it out? We have the manuals and no where does it talk about our car. The transmission lines run under the starter and part of the exhaust may or may not be in the way. Help! (My husband doesn't trust the local mechanics. Early on it was in the shop and we found out the mechanic had the car out for a joy ride!)Spray some WD-40 on the the bolts that hold the crossover pipe and let it soak overnight. You don't have to remove it completely but it makes things easier. The trainy lines really are not in the way. Make sure you disconnect the cable that goes to the battery.
If you haven't gotten the starter yet, turbobuicks.com sells a mini starter for $125.
You many want to fashion your own heat sheild to protect it from heat soak.
Another good idea is to use a remote solenoid or to upgrade the wire that feeds the stock solenoid.
check this out:
http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
and then this:
http://www.madelectrical.com/
If you haven't gotten the starter yet, turbobuicks.com sells a mini starter for $125.
You many want to fashion your own heat sheild to protect it from heat soak.
Another good idea is to use a remote solenoid or to upgrade the wire that feeds the stock solenoid.
check this out:
http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
and then this:
http://www.madelectrical.com/
Ken Cunningham
Post No Bills
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Both electrical wires must be removed before you can manipulate the starter out. Every time I replace the starter, I think that I must be able to bring the starter down to make it easy to disconnect the wiring. But it never works that way. You have to reach up and around to remove the wires first.
I second the motion that the crossover does not need to come off, but loosening the bolts so that you can swing it out of the way really helps.
I second the motion that the crossover does not need to come off, but loosening the bolts so that you can swing it out of the way really helps.
I also removed the exhaust crossover pipe to get at the starter, then it was relatively easy (and I needed to remove starter to access the motor mount ...)
The TurboBuicks mini-starter is referred to as the "LT1", for an even smaller and lighter starter, consider the Corvette LT-4 starter. It's about $175 new, no core trade-in is required. I bought, but haven't installed, an LT4.
Long thread on LT1 and LT4 starters at:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=23707&referrerid=3144
Pictures of LT4 vs LT1 at:
http://wilson.2ya.com/lt4_starter
Put nickel-based antiseize compound on the bolts holding the crossover pipe, it will come out much easier next time.
The TurboBuicks mini-starter is referred to as the "LT1", for an even smaller and lighter starter, consider the Corvette LT-4 starter. It's about $175 new, no core trade-in is required. I bought, but haven't installed, an LT4.
Long thread on LT1 and LT4 starters at:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=23707&referrerid=3144
Pictures of LT4 vs LT1 at:
http://wilson.2ya.com/lt4_starter
Put nickel-based antiseize compound on the bolts holding the crossover pipe, it will come out much easier next time.
You mean the starter didn't fall on your face when you removed the bolts? It weighs a ton! Mine slipped right out without removing anything else. (I did remove the converter dust cover, but just to look around I think) New stock replacement at NAPA was $35 if you're not trying to get it light.
Kid with a toy
Shaven Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
LIFT!!!!!!!
Isn't that cheating
Erik
Isn't that cheating
Erik
Re: LIFT!!!!!!!
Good quality, 2-post surface lifts are around $2500-3000 (which I could manage), but my garage doesn't have the vertical headroom. So now all I need is a $30K home remodel, to create the headroom, to install the lift. But while digging deeper concrete footings to support the posts, I'd probably encounter the sewer pipe which is somewhere under the garage floor, so then I'd need $10K to rip up the floor, re-route the pipes, pour new concrete, etc. And as long as I'm doing that, I can epoxy paint the new floor ....
yes, these TRs make expensive hobbies!
I only wish I had one!!Originally posted by Kid with a toy
[Lifts] Isn't that cheating
Good quality, 2-post surface lifts are around $2500-3000 (which I could manage), but my garage doesn't have the vertical headroom. So now all I need is a $30K home remodel, to create the headroom, to install the lift. But while digging deeper concrete footings to support the posts, I'd probably encounter the sewer pipe which is somewhere under the garage floor, so then I'd need $10K to rip up the floor, re-route the pipes, pour new concrete, etc. And as long as I'm doing that, I can epoxy paint the new floor ....
yes, these TRs make expensive hobbies!
Re: Re: LIFT!!!!!!!
You'd have to get a $150.00 permit for all that crap, so that kills that job!
Originally posted by tom h
I only wish I had one!!
Good quality, 2-post surface lifts are around $2500-3000 (which I could manage), but my garage doesn't have the vertical headroom. So now all I need is a $30K home remodel, to create the headroom, to install the lift. But while digging deeper concrete footings to support the posts, I'd probably encounter the sewer pipe which is somewhere under the garage floor, so then I'd need $10K to rip up the floor, re-route the pipes, pour new concrete, etc. And as long as I'm doing that, I can epoxy paint the new floor ....
yes, these TRs make expensive hobbies!
You'd have to get a $150.00 permit for all that crap, so that kills that job!
Kid with a toy
Shaven Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
The girlfriend's dad just sold a two post lift for $800.
They own an 18 wheeler sales/parts/repair business and felt as if it was "in the way" of their newest store. So they basically gave it away...and it was brand new. This one retailed for around $6,000. But everyone was in the same boat as you and I...no ceiling clearance. Pissed me off. I figured I could pour a slab in the back yard and keep it there.
They own an 18 wheeler sales/parts/repair business and felt as if it was "in the way" of their newest store. So they basically gave it away...and it was brand new. This one retailed for around $6,000. But everyone was in the same boat as you and I...no ceiling clearance. Pissed me off. I figured I could pour a slab in the back yard and keep it there.
Turbo Brian
What do I type here?
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Here is a technique to make removal of the crossover easier. Loosen the two driver's side bolts and then loosen/remove the easy bolt on the passenger side. This allows you to rotate the crossover into position where the remaining bolt has access with a long extension.
1987GrandNational
Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2020
Not for me bro I got a killer 4 PostRe: LIFT!!!!!!!
I only wish I had one!!
Good quality, 2-post surface lifts are around $2500-3000 (which I could manage), but my garage doesn't have the vertical headroom. So now all I need is a $30K home remodel, to create the headroom, to install the lift. But while digging deeper concrete footings to support the posts, I'd probably encounter the sewer pipe which is somewhere under the garage floor, so then I'd need $10K to rip up the floor, re-route the pipes, pour new concrete, etc. And as long as I'm doing that, I can epoxy paint the new floor ....
yes, these TRs make expensive hobbies!
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