removeing # 6 spark plug........HELP

mikes gn

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
can not even think of how it's coming out much less back in,,,,,,,help..........thanks mike
 
Actually, a swivel joint on the socket and 6-inch extension comes in real handy.
 
that'skind of what i've ben tring well i will just keep kicking the fenders every 3 hours..............thanks
 
Mean Buicks goes to too much trouble. I do mine by removing all the A/C components and the wire harness cover opposite the head...that gives me all the room I need.

Seriously, MB is right on...a swivel and extension do the trick. I remove all wire looms and stand offs, and unplug the other wires so I have more room to move.

It also helps if you have skinny hands. The most difficult thing for me is getting the boot off. Put some dielectric grease on the inside of each wire's boot before snapping them back on the plugs...that makes it easier to remove the wires the next time.

Just take your time.

Good Luck.

Steve
 
The SWIVEL joint is key to success here. I can't visualize doing it without that. Also a longer extension - 12" - is helpful tool
 
Its not hard at all. Long extension and swivel socket like others said just be carefull threading the new one in. Try to put plugs in a ls1 98-02 f body now thats hard :eek:
 
it also helps using one of the old spark plug boots to thread the new plug back in . just pull it off one of the old wires.
 
spark plug

Be careful because depending on age of spark plug it can break. Its funny for some reason had more trouble w my na regal plugs than the gn.. Only if all the real problems were on the NA and not the gn dam....
 
mikes gn said:
can not even think of how it's coming out much less back in,,,,,,,help..........thanks mike

It can be done fairly easily with a 2 foot 3/8 drive extension and a swivel spark plug socket. With this combination you can stand back at the fender and take them out and put them back in. Saves a lot of skinned knuckles and/or burnt fingers.

It's better if you use a spark plug socket with a "built in swivel" rather than a separate swivel on a regular socket. You can take the swivel socket off the extension temporarily to put on the plug to start the plug in it's threads by hand to avoid cross threading it. Once started, put the 2 foot extension back on the socket and stand back at the fender and tighten it up.

This set up makes #3 and #5 plugs a breeze too. The extension fits quite conveniently through and under the powermaster. :)

This set up of tools for changing plugs for a turbo regal will make life a lot easier. In other words, it's a good investment. You won't cringe anymore at the thought of changing your plugs. :cool:

George
 
gmncop said:
it also helps using one of the old spark plug boots to thread the new plug back in . just pull it off one of the old wires.

NOW this guy knows what he's doing! Take notes here. You can use the old boot as stated OR grab some vacuum line you have lying around and that works very well. I will guarantee that you cannot crossthread a plug with the force of a rubber vacuum line. :biggrin:
 
sometimes its really easy to get to them if you take the wheel off and go through the wheel well, should be right in front of your face
 
Any tricks for getting the boot back on there tightly?
Everytime I think I've got it, it's loose the next time I check.
 
Paul Clark said:
Any tricks for getting the boot back on there tightly?
Everytime I think I've got it, it's loose the next time I check.

Push really hard and you will feel a CLICK when its on properly
 
Paul Clark said:
Any tricks for getting the boot back on there tightly?
Everytime I think I've got it, it's loose the next time I check.

Put a little Dieletric grease on the inside of the boot before you put it back on the plug. It'll snap on the plug much easier and as a bonus, it'll come off easier the next time you have to pull the plugs out.

It'll also keep out any moisture.

Most performance plug wire manufacturers recommend the use of Dielectric grease on the inside of their plug boots.

Sure a lot of jokers on this thread ;)

George
 
oldtimer said:
It can be done fairly easily with a 2 foot 3/8 drive extension and a swivel spark plug socket. With this combination you can stand back at the fender and take them out and put them back in. Saves a lot of skinned knuckles and/or burnt fingers.

It's better if you use a spark plug socket with a "built in swivel" rather than a separate swivel on a regular socket.

Yup. If you're not willing to purchase and use the right tools... And:

Gently twist the spark plug wire boots to break them loose from the old plug insulators before attempting to pull the boots off the plugs. Never twist, pull or push the wires proper, only the boots.

Clean the heads (plug seats) using compressed air before removing the old plugs.

Use a drop or two of motor oil on the threads only of the new plugs. Distribute the oil evenly around the threads. A Q-tip works well.

Start new plugs by hand only. VERY important.

Torque the plugs.

Spray the insides of the plug wire boots with WD-40 before pushing them on the plugs. They'll go on much easier, seat, and come off much easier the next time.

Be gentle when wrenching on the plugs or you'll crack or break the insulators. Keep your socket straight.

Be gentle with your plug wires.

Never a problem... Of course, people don't do these things and end up messing something up...

strike
 
Well, I sure do always try to keep my socket straight - and I did sorta figure out that I had to push the boot on. ;)
Can't get my hand in there to get a straight shot at it and wondered if there was a trick of some kind.
Using the small chunk of vac. line worked great. Hadn't done that before.
Do those plastic boot pliers work?
 
Paul Clark said:
Can't get my hand in there to get a straight shot at it and wondered if there was a trick of some kind.

Maybe have your wife or some kid with small hands do it? :biggrin:
 
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