Removal of stock exhaust elbow from Turbo, will bolts break?

[Pure Stock Auto]

I have just bought Kirban's bolt in 3 " down pipe and want to remove stock exhaust elbow and port it .

First question, do the 4 bolts holding it to turbo typically break?

Is it worth the risk of breaking these bolts to port this housing, or is it just best leave it alone and bolt on down pipe?

 

[John Larkin]

I broke a bolt on mine. Use PB Blaster for several days first. Then heat the bolt with a propane torch for a little while before trying to crack it loose. Work it back and forth as you loosen and you will have the best chance of success.

 

[jasjamz]

Don't apply the heat to the head of the bolt. Apply it to the section of the housing the bolt is in. Expect 2 of the 4 to snap. If one snaps... Stop there! If two snap, you didn't listen to me and you may as well remove the turbo and have it repaired or upgrade to a better unit.

 

[scgnx2]

If you don't want to deal with a broken bolt in the turbo housing, leave it alone. There is not a lot of gain in porting that stock elbow as the angle is so sharp anyway.

 

[Pure Stock Auto]

Thank you for everyone's feedback.
My car is very stock, from what I hear bolts typically break, so I am just going to leave it alone and simply put on down pipe.
Thanks

 

[turbofrank]

Read threads on that downpipe it can be a bugger to install.

 

[Reggie West]

That stock elbow is a major restriction by design.

If you can get rid of it, do it. Go with a downpipe that mounts to the turbo exhaust housing.

That is free horsepower. As for the bolts, drive the car around so it will heat up then go back to the house and park it.

Get the WD 40 or PB Blaster out and hit all the bolts and let it cool off. That will help.

 

[bison]

Using a solid punch like this with a sharp hammer strike to the head of the bolt will get it done. I remove thousands of rusty bolts a year with this. I break less than than half a % of bolts I attempt. Hitting the head of the bolt sideways in the counterclockwise direction or even clockwise will shock the fastener and break the oxidation layer. Spraying with oil doesn't usually work. The penetrant can't get down the threads far enough to do much good unless the entire part is soaked 100% submerged for several days. Heat will work if used as Jason described but care must be taken because the bolts will anneal near the surface and remain hard deeper in the thread and will be prone to breaking off when turning them out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[87-WE2]

^^^^^^^ This. I tried everything - penetrating oil, melting a crayon, melting a candle, heating with propane torch. Broke the first one off. Did some reading and saw a previous thread about smacking it. Went to the garage and got the biggest Ford Wrench I had and took out some frustration. They all busted free no problem.