rear sway bar

jlat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
hello people: How many of yours R runnin the ATR bar. I am and was thinking about goin back to stock. Any thoughts on the ATR RSB.
IBBY
 
The ATR was one of the thickest bars ever made for our cars at 35mm why would you put the stock coat hanger bar back on?
 
hello peple: I think it might be overkill and it has to weigh alot more than stock. I don't know but it does look cool. What bar are youz usin?
IBBY
 
Had an ATR bar on the WE4 for over 20 years, it's the only thing left holding the car together.
GN has the first gen. HR. Parts bar, both work ok.
They're good parts still worth a few bucks, worry about something important like Taylor Swift and Kelce. :eek:
 
Had an ATR bar on the WE4 for over 20 years, it's the only thing left holding the car together.
GN has the first gen. HR. Parts bar, both work ok.
They're good parts still worth a few bucks, worry about something important like Taylor Swift and Kelce. :eek:
you so funny
 
hello peple: I think it might be overkill and it has to weigh alot more than stock. I don't know but it does look cool. What bar are youz usin?
IBBY
Ive used many of them , i had over 40 G body cars, they do weigh more but the pro's out weigh the cons particularly in body roll,
the Detroit Speed (that goes around the rear end cover and bolts to the axle tubes) is at the top of my list, along with the Hellwig, I have 2 ATR's and i havent seen a thicker traditional rear bar yet.
 
hello people: I've been searching around and others say the ATR is best for drag racing. I don't do that and that got me thinking.
I've had it for a long time. I did get it from ATR and they've been gone a while.
IBBY
 
I like cars that handle well. One of the first mods I did after tires and wheels in 1988 were springs, sway bars and shocks.
After the BF Goodrich Comp T/A 255/50-16’s on all 4 corners mounted on 16” x 8.5” vette wheels with 1.5” billet aluminum spacer from Vette brakes and products I installed larger sway bars.
I went with Herb Adams 1 5/16” solid front bar with heim joint end links and urethane frame bushings along with his 1 1/2” solid rear bar (lower control arm mounted).
The icing on the cake was the ATR handling front springs, MOOG cargo coils in the rear and Bilstien shocks.
This setup had perfectly neutral steering, sliding through a turn while maintaining full control.

IMG_0821.jpeg


IMG_0819.jpeg


I feel the ATR rear bar would be a really good match for a factory front bar where all tires are the same size.
It would be a little big if the rear tires are larger.

You could save some weight by going to a 3/4” hollow frame mounted rear bar. It would be as effective and most are adjustable.
I just changed to a QA1 1 3/8” hollow front bar and a UMI 1” hollow rear bar (frame mounted) and should do the same job, have some adjustability and I lost 46lbs.

I would start by finding an empty parking lot, make big left and right circles. Push the limit to see if the front pushes (understeers) or the rear comes around (oversteers)
Maybe you like it jut the way it is?
 
hello people: And hello GX1 loosing 46 lbs on any car should make a difference in handling. I likey. Where can I get my car weighed. I live in Mass. I'd like to know just to know.
IBBY
 
Over the years I’ve had cars weighed at local grain elevators and recycling centers.
A landfill should be able to do it as well.
Recycling centers always made me nervous due to possible tire punctures.
Park off to the side/ out of the way. Walk in and talk to them about weighing the front, the rear and the total car. Let them know you will drive the nose half on for the front weight, the whole car on for the total weight and drive half off the scale for the rear weight. That way everyone is on the same page and things go smoothly. Discuss price, some will do it for free because it’s a cool car. If they seem reluctant, ask if there’s a time you can come back when they’re less busy. If they’re unsure of price, offer $20, lord knows we’ve wasted more on stupid stuff.
 
hello people: And hello GX1 loosing 46 lbs on any car should make a difference in handling. I likey. Where can I get my car weighed. I live in Mass. I'd like to know just to know.
IBBY
I like cars that handle well. One of the first mods I did after tires and wheels in 1988 were springs, sway bars and shocks.
After the BF Goodrich Comp T/A 255/50-16’s on all 4 corners mounted on 16” x 8.5” vette wheels with 1.5” billet aluminum spacer from Vette brakes and products I installed larger sway bars.
I went with Herb Adams 1 5/16” solid front bar with heim joint end links and urethane frame bushings along with his 1 1/2” solid rear bar (lower control arm mounted).
The icing on the cake was the ATR handling front springs, MOOG cargo coils in the rear and Bilstien shocks.
This setup had perfectly neutral steering, sliding through a turn while maintaining full control.

View attachment 396152

View attachment 396153

I feel the ATR rear bar would be a really good match for a factory front bar where all tires are the same size.
It would be a little big if the rear tires are larger.

You could save some weight by going to a 3/4” hollow frame mounted rear bar. It would be as effective and most are adjustable.
I just changed to a QA1 1 3/8” hollow front bar and a UMI 1” hollow rear bar (frame mounted) and should do the same job, have some adjustability and I lost 46lbs.
NOTE: the front bar was 12.1lbs less and the rear bar was 23.4 lbs less (with hardware). 35.5 lbs overall.
The new setup should be as effective.

I would start by finding an empty parking lot, make big left and right circles. Push the limit to see if the front pushes (understeers) or the rear comes around (oversteers)
Maybe you like it jut the way it is?
 
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