Rear seal question

sparky0798

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Hey all. For those that have done their rear main seal on their backs in the garage without a lift, where did you jack the car up to get the best access for the job? I have ramps and jacks, just not sure what the best approach would be. Thanks in advance and stay safe.
 
I’m old and a little fat, don’t think a set of ramps would be high enough but might be ok.
Jack stands on the front not the easiest good solid locations without big stand to get to the sway bar
A set of jack stands on the back axle, for me the standard NAPA ones ok.
NO 8X8X16 cinderblocks BAD.
I’ve seen it done without pulling the trans on a 350 Chevy 30 years ago.
If I had to do it on my back ramps and stands and work around the transmission
 
I also heard two different things: The motor has to be "pushed" up a little to make more room. BUT, I also hear some say it doesn't have to be. What is correct with a stock engine and stock mounts?
I know the engine crank has to be in the "correct" location to get the clearance from the counter weight(s). Does anyone know where that location maybe is? (Example: TDC on 1 or 3 or 4 etc..) (With out opening up the oil pan first and looking into it a little and seeing if it needs to be turned.)
 
From what I’ve read the trans doesn’t have to come out. I’m just wondering where it’s best to Jack the car up for this particular job. Front cross member, front wheels on ramps, rear wheels on ramps etc....
 
I did it a long time ago.
Jacked up front end under the front cross member, put the jack stands on the frame right behind the front tires.
Take the serpentine belt off and you can turn the engine by hand to move the crankshaft using the balancer.
It was a tight fit, but I was able to slide the oil pan out without removing anything major.

I was told to make sure that you don't line up the separation gaps on the 2 piece seal with the Main Cap.
I also used Oil Resistant RTV instead of the little rubber items.

It was a long time ago, so I hope that this helps!
ENJOY!
 
When I did mine years ago I put it up on stands, on the frame behind the front tires and under the rear axle.
I’m sure you’ll be fine with ramps on the front and stands under the rear axle.

I didn’t know about the rotating the crank thing and I wasn’t smart enough to think of it so I dropped the pan down and unbolted the the oil pump pick up. The pan came out easy peasy. I don’t remember if I took the exhaust crossover pipe off, but I think I did.
I had to hold the oil pump pick up with two fingers inside the pan, once the pan was above the crossmember, reinstall the pick up tube then reinstall the oil pan.

I seem to always do things the hard way, but got it done.
 
You can do it on ramps; crossover pipe needs to come off. I had an older seal, so needed to rotate the crank to get the seal to pull out.

If you have compressed older motor mounts you may need to jack up to get the pan out.
 
I just did mine.
Jack stands on the frame under the door hinges.
Unbolted the motor mounts and lifted the engine up an inch or two by jacking at the front of the trans pan (wood block)
Drop pan. Pull cap. Use GREASE on the new seal to ensure it's not damaged during it's start-up / break-in. Cometic oil pan gasket is great. Right Stuff RTV in the pressurized can.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Hoping to do this soon before going back to work.
I just did mine.
Jack stands on the frame under the door hinges.
Unbolted the motor mounts and lifted the engine up an inch or two by jacking at the front of the trans pan (wood block)
Drop pan. Pull cap. Use GREASE on the new seal to ensure it's not damaged during it's start-up / break-in. Cometic oil pan gasket is great. Right Stuff RTV in the pressurized can.
Will multi duty hi temp grease be ok?
 
Thanks for the help guys. Hoping to do this soon before going back to work.

Will multi duty hi temp grease be ok?
Should be. I used a clear brown Mystic brand grease that was in my grease gun for suspension ball joints.
 
I'm old as well ,don't know about the fat part,but it wouldn't hurt to shed a few pounds, hard to do right now being near the kitchen 24/7.
My hat is off to you guys for replacing that rear main seal using jacks and ramps. i replace mines maybe 15 years ago ,but was fortunate
to get access to garage lift. If you knew someone that would allowed you access to a lift, "about a two hour job" One hell of a lot easier job.
..Good Luck.
 
My son has three lifts at his shop ,but every time I go over to use one I end up working on his stuff. I do love helping him and I eventually get my stuff done vary late into the evening.
 
Ok thanks guys. I feel confident enough doing the job, it’s the small little details I’m not sure about. Should I put rtv on the ends of the seal where it meets up with the other seal? I tend to overthink things lol
 
Ok thanks guys. I feel confident enough doing the job, it’s the small little details I’m not sure about. Should I put rtv on the ends of the seal where it meets up with the other seal? I tend to overthink things lol

Yes, and remember to offset the seam 1/2” or so.
 
I used a drywall screw, screwed into the seal and pulled while rotating the crank to get the upper half out. I think it was an old post by bison that mentioned that(thanks). I also didn't use the nail seal deal, just silicone.
 
The hardest part is getting the bearing cap out. 1/4" offset on the ends of the seal. Make sure the sides and groove in the bearing cap is clean,clean clean. Squeeze ultrablack into the groove until it seeps out all the edges. Let cure for a couple of days and trim the excess silicone with a razor blade then put the oil pan back on.
 
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