Rear disc proportioning?

BlackMetal

Active Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2005
Should I just buy a GM disc/disc prop valve, or run some kind of adjustable, or what? What are other people using with rear disc kits?

I did a search but those threads are old and I know more guys have done a conversion since then.
 
I just followed the BAER instructions, works fine with the stock steel one "gutted". :cool:

Of course the fronts are upgraded as well to 12". Balance seems just fine to me. :smile:

BAERPropvalvemodcloseuprearbrakes.jpg
 
I just followed the BAER instructions, works fine with the stock steel one "gutted". :cool:

Of course the fronts are upgraded as well to 12". Balance seems just fine to me. :smile:

BAERPropvalvemodcloseuprearbrakes.jpg

I did the Baer mod as well but the valve ended up failing after two years. It may have been because it was still the steel valve. These were recalled in Canada.
 
Yeah I think I still have the steel valve so I wouldn't mind replacing it regardless. Gutting it would be nice and cheap but I'd like to get rid of the recalled valve.

And I have 12" fronts as well.
 
metering valve

Be careful with that illustration. That show the metering valve being removed the valve will not hold fluid with that removed. The proportioning valve is on the other end!!!!! If you are not sure, you could send the valve in to me, and I can do it properly. Gm has discontinued that valve and the 4 disc valve. New ones are available, but they are offshore!!!.
 
I'll check for fluid leaks, although it's been on the car like that over 3 years now. :biggrin:

I don't think I'm sending it anywhere, thanks. ;)
 
Interesting I might go that route. Is there a T you can buy with all the proper thread sizes etc. i.e. What thread pitch and fitting size do I need to look for. Thanks.

Sorry it took so long to reply. The T is 3/16 and the flare nuts from the combo valve to the hoses is 3/16. The flare nut on the line from the master needs too large (I dont remember thread sizes) and need to be replaced and line reflared. I do recall one of the rear flare nuts need replacing to the correct size too 1/4" I think. If you're good with flaring its not a difficult job at all.

103_2830.jpg
 
Ok so Im trying to mod the pro-valve for for my front/rear disc setup and ive disassembled the pro-valve and ive found two of the three pieces that need to be removed but where is the 3rd? ( ive circled the part i can't find and included a pic of the two ive already removed )

TIA
 

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Sorry it took so long to reply. The T is 3/16 and the flare nuts from the combo valve to the hoses is 3/16. The flare nut on the line from the master needs too large (I dont remember thread sizes) and need to be replaced and line reflared. I do recall one of the rear flare nuts need replacing to the correct size too 1/4" I think. If you're good with flaring its not a difficult job at all.

103_2830.jpg

This is the way to do it. Although i used adapters on mine, its the same thing. You will get a better pedal this way and full adjustability on the rears.
 
Ok so Im trying to mod the pro-valve for for my front/rear disc setup and ive disassembled the pro-valve and ive found two of the three pieces that need to be removed but where is the 3rd? ( ive circled the part i can't find and included a pic of the two ive already removed )

TIA

The one you have the circle around is a round rubber washer that is sirated around the circumference. It's there, stuck in the back of the front piece with spring. That is the third piece. Take those three pieces out, put it back together and your done. That's all there is to it. Brakes work properly.
 
ok so do i need to remove the tiny "C" clip to remove the serrated washer thingy then reassemble? thats kinda what I was thinking but before doing it I wanted to hear someone else say so...
 
ok so do i need to remove the tiny "C" clip to remove the serrated washer thingy then reassemble? thats kinda what I was thinking but before doing it I wanted to hear someone else say so...

Mine was just sitting in the recess, the serrated washer, that is. I just pulled it off and discarded it.
 
just wanted to be sure which nut i was removing. there is one toward the front of the car (similar to illustration) and one facing downward.
is this mod changing pressure to the front or rear? my rears are locking up. single pot caddy caliper w/pb and 2 piston PBR front caliper.
 
just wanted to be sure which nut i was removing. there is one toward the front of the car (similar to illustration) and one facing downward.
is this mod changing pressure to the front or rear? my rears are locking up. single pot caddy caliper w/pb and 2 piston PBR front caliper.

Its the one facing the front of the vehicle that you'll be cracking free and disassembling. When you swap drums over to discs via Baer's kit this is how they resolve the bias. Many report having success going this route. I would give it a shot unless you want to just spend the money and buy a adjustable proportioning valve - its your call.
 
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