Rear coil Springs?
- Thread starter Buick8688
- Start date
Junior Samples
Walk Away
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2007
buy new ones...
Installation is simple... for the back yard mechanic.
Car on jack stands, undo your shocks from the bottom... have wife or someone stand on wheel untill you can wiggle out old spring, have em bounce on tire a little untill you can wiggle new ones in,.. make sure the coil ends are facing inward.
reinstall shocks and go for a drive
Fronts should slide in as well after separating spindle from lower
Installation is simple... for the back yard mechanic.
Car on jack stands, undo your shocks from the bottom... have wife or someone stand on wheel untill you can wiggle out old spring, have em bounce on tire a little untill you can wiggle new ones in,.. make sure the coil ends are facing inward.
reinstall shocks and go for a drive
Fronts should slide in as well after separating spindle from lower
I wanted to clarify the above post that the FRONT coil springs DO NOT slide in. DO NOT attempt to change your front springs w/o first doing research and having the proper tools. Front Coil Springs are dangerous......... if you dont know what your doing you WILL get hurt...........
Junior Samples
Walk Away
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2007
I wanted to clarify the above post that the FRONT coil springs DO NOT slide in. DO NOT attempt to change your front springs w/o first doing research and having the proper tools. Front Coil Springs are dangerous......... if you dont know what your doing you WILL get hurt...........
you drop your lower, slide the spring up in, then small jack under the lower untill your lower ball joint bolt is through the spindle, then thread nut on...quick
Yes its easy-r with a spring compressor.. rented at advance auto, but those are just as dangerous if not more.
Ive never had any problem or lost limbs doing it the hebrew way but its good you emphasized safety first and for someone who would ask this question, its prolly best not to follow my advice and to just take it to a shop and let them do it
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
This can be done if you're replacing the front springs on an old A-body, like a GTO, 442, or Chevelle, but on a G-body, you'll never get the spring to sit on the lip where you can jack up the A-frame and start the nut in the ball joint stud. Spring compressors are not the way to go, either. Very dangerous.
Junior Samples
Walk Away
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2007
No Kidden? I did mine no problems, no cut coils or whomped out springs
Doing the A-bodys and the C3 vettes, Like you said John... never had an issue and this would be the first G-body Ive done.. guess I got lucky or the Moon was full.
SO strike any ka-ka I previously mentioned about replacing front springs on G-bodys cause my install was just a fluke
Doing the A-bodys and the C3 vettes, Like you said John... never had an issue and this would be the first G-body Ive done.. guess I got lucky or the Moon was full.
SO strike any ka-ka I previously mentioned about replacing front springs on G-bodys cause my install was just a fluke
novaderrik
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2004
springs are easy- if everything comes apart without fighting. balljoints sometimes have an attitude and need to be convinced that it is in their best interest to come apart.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
In a Nova, but not in a G-body.
i got mine from Kirban Performance - Buick Grand National Parts, T-Type, Turbo T, GNX Parts, Chevrolet Chevy Corvette Parts, Ford Mustang Parts, Pontiac GTO Parts www.kirbanperformance.com some people dont care for them since they are a cargo style but i like them and many other locals like them as well. you can also check out GBodyParts.com Online for them as well
RegalT-type85
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
I got mine from summit, cargo type also. I like them, Made the car stance look better and easy to put in.
You might also want to get Energy Suspension Coil Spring Isolators. My stock rubbers unit were worn out bad.
John- how can you possibly get the spring in and jack up the A-arm without using a spring compressor?
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Before I understood how much energy was stored up in compressed G-body springs, I attempted to use a spring compressor. I realized with G-body springs it was extremely dangerous as I tightened up the coils. I had the whole set-up in a vice when I was tightening it. The problem of course is if it let's go when you are on your way to inserting it into the spring cavity on the car. There's an old thread by Louie L. where exactly that happened and he was injured. By the way, my spring compressor, which had the threaded shaft go through the center of the spring did break while compressing the spring.
The way you do it without a spring compressor is to undue the bottom shock bolts, (I don't run a sway bar) position a jack under the center of the control arm jacked up to meet the control arm, and remove the bolts holding the A-arm to the frame. You don't unfasten the ball-joint. Allow the jack to lower the A-arm and as it lowers, the spring will become fully uncompressed to remove by hand. Just reverse the procedure when jacking the spring into place. Once the A-arm is up, the only effort is in lining up the bolt holes. With a helper, it's no problem at all. It's more difficult when you're by yourself. The Arm can be moved with the use of a prybar. The front end of the A-arm has a tendency to go too far into the cavity in the frame, passed the point where the wholes line up and needs to be manipulated with the use of the pry bar, this while jacking to the exact height needed. Three or four arms work good, that's why I've been successful with this method!
Before I understood how much energy was stored up in compressed G-body springs, I attempted to use a spring compressor. I realized with G-body springs it was extremely dangerous as I tightened up the coils. I had the whole set-up in a vice when I was tightening it. The problem of course is if it let's go when you are on your way to inserting it into the spring cavity on the car. There's an old thread by Louie L. where exactly that happened and he was injured. By the way, my spring compressor, which had the threaded shaft go through the center of the spring did break while compressing the spring.
The way you do it without a spring compressor is to undue the bottom shock bolts, (I don't run a sway bar) position a jack under the center of the control arm jacked up to meet the control arm, and remove the bolts holding the A-arm to the frame. You don't unfasten the ball-joint. Allow the jack to lower the A-arm and as it lowers, the spring will become fully uncompressed to remove by hand. Just reverse the procedure when jacking the spring into place. Once the A-arm is up, the only effort is in lining up the bolt holes. With a helper, it's no problem at all. It's more difficult when you're by yourself. The Arm can be moved with the use of a prybar. The front end of the A-arm has a tendency to go too far into the cavity in the frame, passed the point where the wholes line up and needs to be manipulated with the use of the pry bar, this while jacking to the exact height needed. Three or four arms work good, that's why I've been successful with this method!
Thanks for the explanation John. Now if you would only get rid of that KKK video in your sig.....but I guess it's a free world.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Yeah, free for all those who can't think for themselves, and allow the MSM to do their thinking for them.
FWIW, Mustang Fox Body springs fit the rear...they are slightly smaller in size so if clearance with shocks and/or exhaust is an issue......
There is also a wide variety of spring rates available.
It won't hurt! Really!!
Conrad
There is also a wide variety of spring rates available.
It won't hurt! Really!!
Conrad
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Yes. Look for 2 to 3" of space above the tire.
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