really annoying noise from dash area help !!

[turbo john FL]

just getting car back on road after long engine build car sat for almost 2 years , there is this terrible creaking noise coming from the dash area seems to be on driver side sounds terrible driving down road is there something under the dash that would be creaking from sitting so long or cant figure it out help ! LOL

thanks john

 

[Nascar83Fan]

Is it only when you go over any bumps or does it do it even going over smooth bump free roads?

 

[Pronto]

Open the hood and put some lithium grease on the rubber hood stop at the back of the firewall.

 

[Phoneguy]

Open the hood and put some lithium grease on the rubber hood stop at the back of the firewall.

^^^^^^^
YUP...

Bryan

 

[Daniel Jost]

I had the exact same noise I chased for years and just found it a week ago! The pinch weld on the bottom of the body on my passenger side was rubbing the outside of the frame and made a terrible creaking/squeaking noise on the passenger side which sounded like it was coming from the dash.

,Dan

 

[Gunmetal87]

Open the hood and put some lithium grease on the rubber hood stop at the back of the firewall.

x2, did the same to stop the creaking noise

 

[TLIMITED]

X3,4,5

 

[hiboom]

or speedometer cable

 

[turbo nasty]

Yep center hood bumper on the cowl needs a little grease

 

[MeanBuicks]

Open the hood and put some lithium grease on the rubber hood stop at the back of the firewall.

And if you're on a road trip; in a pinch you can smear a little motor oil from your dipstick on it.

 

[turbofabricator]

If you hear a dull rattle during cruise it may be the steering column lock out rod contacting the #5 header tube. To check for this, put the trans in drive/overdrive (with the engine OFF) and then wiggle the rod and see if it hits the header tube (real common along with the hood bumper mentioned earlier). To remedy I use a long weak throttle spring hooked around the rod and drill a small hole in the inner fender and put the other end of the spring in it. It only takes light pressure to keep the lock out rod away from the header. In park the rod is far enough away to prevent contact and therefore its hard to diagnose. I've been doing this for 20+ yrs..