Ready to Cry

M

MCH86GN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Has anyone on here every seen the episode of Canada on Strike from South Park? I'm to the point where Steven Abootmen starts crying because he is a failure.

In spring I changed my transmission fluid and checked it etc. Then I hoisted my car, jack stands, to change to my new fake GNX rims. At some point I pushed my ebrake. I was doing another check, I was checking to see if my efan worked. So I got in the car push the brake and put it in drive and I figured I would build a pound or two of boost. Probably not the smartest thing to do, but I did have it on 4 jack stands and a jack in the front on the chassis "cross member" and the other on the rear diff. So all in all it was supported by the 4 jack stands and the jacks were a hair lower, not really supporting any weight. Anyway, I was not paying attention to the read parking break light on right in front of me. I was paying attention to my laptop with PL. So I built a few lbs of boost and like a fool I let off the brake with the ebrake engaged. Remember the wheels weren't on the ground. As soon as I released the foot brake, I heard pop. I tried pressing the brakes again and there was no pressure. Then I realized what I had done. The rear wheel cylinder on the right side was ripped out and snapped the brake line. Ok, I found a two piece replacement at Napa, so I didn't have to pull the rear axle to put a new backing plate on. It was destroyed. Based on the advise of some I chose to buy the one piece backing plate and replace it. So I had Aggressive Performance pull the rear axle and replace the the backing plate. Brakes are fine now. Sorry for so much information.

Now when the engine is in P or N, it sounds fine but when I put it into gear it sounds bad. I can't describe the sound. So I was wondering, if the brake was quickly released and the engine was under the load of the brake and then broke free and was not on a road surface, could the potential enegry and sudden release of the engine under load to just the load of the rotating parts broke something in the engine. There is no oil leaking, nor is there any thing in the oil. I drained about a quart and took a look at it. I'm not sure what to think. I'm going to look and make sure my accessory bracket is tight and no broken bolts. Any thoughts, before I pull my engine.

I deserve the "Bonehead of the Year Award" again. In 08, I didn't top off my alky. Blew a headgasket. In 09 I took car out in sub zero weather and didn't wait for it warm up and I thnk my Alky wasn't misting and I destroyed my engine block. Then I turned it over and sent all the metal peices through my oiling system and had to have my turbo rebuilt. In 2010, I got great deal on a motor. It came out of a runnng car and I got the shortblock with heads. All I needed to do was bolt my intake on it and drop it in. Instead I pulled the heads and had Aggressive put my ported heads and intake on it. Then I get it home and I ask someone to move motor when it was still on the engine stand and they dump it. I had to replace a valve cover. Then instead of putting my motor in my car, I figured I would clean it up a little. Well I replaced all the suspension and steering linkage. Then in 2011, once I had it back together I took it to a local shop and had them bleed the brakes and they didn't know what they were doing and over filled the reservoir and brake fluid went all over my freshly painted chassis. Then I took it Aggressive to have my PL and WBO2 installed and as it turned out a lot of bolts were lose, including the flexplate to the converter. So for safety reasons Aggressive doubled checked all my bolts. Somehow I managed to crack the balancer on the front. So I got my car back last year at the end of the summer and it was running great. I put less than 25 miles on it. After all that work. Now I did this and I may be up craps creek w/o a paddle. I can't spend anymore money on this car.

Hello my name is Charles Lowe and I accept the Bone Head of the Year Award again. I have to be one of the stupidest people on this forum.
 
If P and N sound fine and motor is not making noise then. Rev it up a little. If no noise...it's your tranny or convertor. If it only makes noise once you engage the rest of the drivetrain. Convertor is spinning while motor is turning, but either could be causing noise once you put them under load. If motor revs without making noise in P and N only...I say start there.
 
Gulp....... We've all done bonehead things..... just learn from them and move ahead.
 
coach said:
If P and N sound fine and motor is not making noise then. Rev it up a little. If no noise...it's your tranny or convertor. If it only makes noise once you engage the rest of the drivetrain. Convertor is spinning while motor is turning, but either could be causing noise once you put them under load. If motor revs without making noise in P and N only...I say start there.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good starting point. I did rev up the engine in P and N and the noise wasn't present, only under load.
 
Blazer406 said:
Gulp....... We've all done bonehead things..... just learn from them and move ahead.
Click to expand...
Yes we have, but this one may put me out of commission for a while, because my dollars are going for my other vehicles that I have been negelecting. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a new one. So for once the GN has to take a back seat.
 
MCH86GN said:
That is true, but I'm still one of the biggest bone heads on this board.
Click to expand...
Believe me, you're not one of the biggest bone heads.;) Just the most current one.:D Crap happens on these cars and you can never tell what it will be next.:(
 
I was in a hurry once installing the interior panels on my V8 S10 Blazer after installing a recovered headliner, and wasn't paying close enough attention.... there was about 3-4 different length screws to attach the panel. I put a screw that was too long in the hole and squeezed the trigger on my rechargeable drill.... it screwed that (self drilling self tapping) screw right out through the body panel...... you talk about pissed off at myself..... I might not have had the physical carnage you had, but paint and body work isn't cheap either. I patched it myself to save $$, but it really was never the same.

Don't be down on yourself...... just pick up the pieces and fix it as the funds (and time) allow.
 
Blazer406 said:
I was in a hurry once installing the interior panels on my V8 S10 Blazer after installing a recovered headliner, and wasn't paying close enough attention.... there was about 3-4 different length screws to attach the panel. I put a screw that was too long in the hole and squeezed the trigger on my rechargeable drill.... it screwed that (self drilling self tapping) screw right out through the body panel...... you talk about pissed off at myself..... I might not have had the physical carnage you had, but paint and body work isn't cheap either. I patched it myself to save $$, but it really was never the same.

Don't be down on yourself...... just pick up the pieces and fix it as the funds (and time) allow.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Makes me feel better. It's just upsetting, because you are trying to make something better and in the process you do more harm than good. That is the hurtful part.
I rag on my 2000 s10 and nelegect it to no end and I'm not careful when I do work on it I never seem to damage or screw anything up and besides taking my GN to the track I pamper it and it is worse off than my truck now.
 
lol i cant even imagine how much stupid crap i have done with my cars... i mean STUPID things i have done that have cost me thousands and thousands!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i just spent a couple hundred bucks, like 2 weeks ago because by mistake i drilled a hole in my radiator.. had to get it re welded and cleaned inside. A good one i had just moved into a new place with a car port i jump in my t-type and backout looking back.. i turned the wheel and scratched the front fender and ruin my filler and bent my bumper on the concrete post.. not only that but i opened the door pissed and wasnt used to the small dimensions of the carport and banged my driver door on the same concrete wall lol...that one was an expensive one... A good one was i took my gas tank off to check my fuel pump i jump in my other car to buy a new sock filter i get back someone had taken my gas tank.. i heard rumors it was johndeeregn but never really found out.. i had to order a new tank and fuel pump and hanger lol!! ol these buicks are good times.
 
About 8 years ago I wanted to go tune my Turbo eclipse soo bad after getting it together I put the rear bumper on with only 4 bolts. It blew off at about 100mph and slid all the way down the road wrecking it completely lol
 
GetOwnedVette said:
About 8 years ago I wanted to go tune my Turbo eclipse soo bad after getting it together I put the rear bumper on with only 4 bolts. It blew off at about 100mph and slid all the way down the road wrecking it completely lol
Click to expand...


LOL. Well believe it or not bolts were part of my problem too. Last year when I put my motor back in I bolted what I could to the block before I dropped the motor back in. As it turns out all the noise was coming from the bolts being lose. Bruce from Aggressive said they were all lose, meaning the accessory bracket bolts and some of the bolts that bolt the accessories on. I was so anxious to get my car running again that I didn't bothering torquing the bolts properly. I used a 7" racket. Now last year when Bruce was installing my WBO2 and PL he called me and said my torque converter bolts were lose as well as a few others. This year I noticed the one of my nuts missing, of the three that bolt the turbo to the exhaust. Luckily I had a spare that fit and when I checked the other two they were lose as well. I can't remember the size, but I used a long open face to tighten those suckers. I also checked my exhaust manifold bolts and they were only snug and I tightened with my new 12" Snap on racket. I really should invest in a torque wrench. I also had to tighten the 4 bolts that bolt-on the cross-over pipe. Now I am a little concerned that the bolts that loosened that had gaskets, I used a gasket sealer. I hope I don't need to replace them.

Now speaking of torquing bolts, I overtorqued the ones to bolt down the Plenum and ended up stripping the bolt holes in the lower intake for the plenum. I helicoiled every one of the suckers. Perhaps the only thing I did right on the car, besides suggesting that we probe the connector for my MAF since I was getting an intermittent fault. Turns out, the ground wire was not making good contact and tightening the two bolts on the back the head did the trick.

I get to pick my car up this evening and next week I'm off work and I'm going to test-n-tune. It is will only be in the 70's, relatively low humidity and by night fall the mid 60's. Perfect weather. I may turn down the boost for a few passes and just see how she holds up. I'm going to ease back into the full power.
 
As it turns out my car is home and it wasn't anything major. The worst Bruce had to do was make another ground wire for my MAF sensor. I wish he would have let me do it, because it is a simple procedure and I would have saved some money. I have an electronics lab at work and I could have got the couple of feet of wire, soldering iron if needed etc. But she is home and no internal mechanical issues, as far as I can tell. I think I need to get a 160 degree thermostate though. The block in my vehicle, I bought off a buddy and my car seems to run a little on the warm side. Just crusing in 70 degree weather it is running around 188F. I don't want to get off topic with this thread. Now since I got it fixed I not as anxious to take it to the track and run it. I think I will just cruise for the rest of the summer/fall or until I put it away for the winter.
 
MCH86GN said:
As it turns out my car is home and it wasn't anything major. The worst Bruce had to do was make another ground wire for my MAF sensor. I wish he would have let me do it, because it is a simple procedure and I would have saved some money. I have an electronics lab at work and I could have got the couple of feet of wire, soldering iron if needed etc. But she is home and no internal mechanical issues, as far as I can tell. I think I need to get a 160 degree thermostate though. The block in my vehicle, I bought off a buddy and my car seems to run a little on the warm side. Just crusing in 70 degree weather it is running around 188F. I don't want to get off topic with this thread. Now since I got it fixed I not as anxious to take it to the track and run it. I think I will just cruise for the rest of the summer/fall or until I put it away for the winter.
Click to expand...


Looks like I spoke too soon. In my 2010 bone head move of the year, I was too inpatient to wait for a cherry picker and I had two other men to help me left my engine out of an F150. Well one of the guys couldn't hang on and it rotated because it was top heavy and destroyed the valve cover. I replaced the valve cover and never thought about checking the valve train. I'm pretty sure when my engine fell it damaged the rocker shaft and it was a matter of time before I would break. Now I remind I only had my car out a couple of time last year, 11, and about 5 fives this year. I was a little wary of running it hard. So I gradually increased boost and aggressive driving all the while recording with PL to make sure there were no significant issues. Well I had I slight noise is the front of my engine and it got 10x worse and I was in Detroit and I slowed down to 35 and drove it to a safe spot for a tow. I then realized my rocker shaft was broke, initially I though my number one lifter had came out of its bore and that caused the main problem. Well I thing the rocket shaft was the main problem and when it broke it sheer the bolt hold the rocker shaft into. So I drilled and tapped it and as soon as I started to rotate the remaining bolt out my tap breaks. So I'm thinking of helicoiling it. But I need a good cutting bit the one have works for shit and I also need to keep it lined up. Which I have an idea if I can find an other rocker shaft. If this doesn't work it looks like my ported head will be headed to a machine shop. Once fixed I will put stronger rocker shafts and most of all not do stupid stuff.
 
That sucks. When I broke my shaft and bolt, the broken bolt came out like butter. I actually used a magnet to rotate it a couple times til I could get my fingers on it.
 
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