Qustions about stock block

[Justin Terry]

I was orginally planning to buy a stage 2 or TA block but have decided not to since I already have a stock block in my car. I am going to the School of Automotive Machinists so I can do all the machining for free. And since eagle has came out with a new crank thats forged I can get one of those. My block is bored .030 already with JE pistons and 2 billet center main caps. But I am wanting to go faster so I was wondering if I could buy 4 billet main caps that are all 4 bolt and get rid of the 2 bolt caps. Is there any way I can make the stock 2 bolt block to accept 4 bolt caps. I am wanting to put 4 bolt billet caps and an RJC girdle. The new forged eagle crank and Carillo rods with my JE pistons. I am going to buy TA heads and do them my self since I can port them andput them together for free except for parts. And I am going to buy the RJC head girdle because the stock block only has 8 bolt holes. I am also going to buy a Mease performance sheetmetal intake with throttle body and fuel rail. And I wanna get a BB 76 turbo with a really good FMIC. So what do you think if the 2 bolt to 4 bolt conversion is it possible. Thanks

 

[TurboDave]

Machining free or not, I would strongly recommend going to a stage 2 block or T/A block. With all you want to do you'll surely need the extra strength!!!! I've never heard of anyone doing 4 bolts to the stock block, don't think it would be feasable or worthwhile. As I see it, you have 3 choices:
Stage II iron block (only minor machining required)
new T/A aluminum block (not sure what machining required)
Buick Motorsports Indy aluminum block (some interesting machining required).

 

[gnx7]

How fast do you plan to go and what is the fastest YOU have ever driven a car down the strip in?

Spend the money on FMIC and good turbo and if you can afford it a FAST or DFI system. Why waste money on parts that aren't needed? Remember weight sucks up HP also. Put the car on a diet.

Stock casting fully ported lower intake/heads will go easy low 10's and have gone 9.99@136mph in a full weight GN with T-76 singing at 30psi+ with stock fuel rail and stock 57mm TB that has been ported to 62mm ($80 cost) (Ryan Guy in OR). Stock ported intake with nice aluminum heads (mildly ported) and big turbo will go 9.90's (quite a few doing this) with high boost/timing. Add a girdle and the stock block combo lasts with proper tuning. Low 10's with stock block, crank, rods with ARP rod bolts, stock main caps, RJC girdle, stock massaged intake, stock fuel rail, big injectors, stock headers that have been welded and then port matched and careful tuning should be good for 10's for a few hundred passes one would hope before the bearings are toast from the crank flexing under boost pressure.

If you have your heart set on buying that forged crank/rods/pistons I wouldn't waste it on a stock block. Wait until the TA block comes out and has proven itself as reliable. Stage 1 or 2 parts are hard to come by and command top dollar. Stock parts can go very far and if you are a student save your $$$ until you can truly afford to get it all.

What are your goals with the car and what is the fastest you have been with it so far?

My fastest is 11.60@114mph.... I'm adding about 250hp more than the previous combo in spring of 2004 and hoping for 9's.... hell I don't even know if that will be too fast or not? I figure I'll slowly but surely turn up the boost till I get used to it.

-GNX7

 

[Justin Terry]

I wanna go mid 9's or faster. And I wanna do it reliably. My car has ran a 11.39 @ 118 with 20 psi and 26* timing and it has also went 11.4x @ 121 at 23 psi and 26* timing. The second run it spun pretty bad.It was also 92 degrees outside that day and like 100% humidity so I could have ran a high 10 maybe with better weather and alittle more boost. That was with 50 lbs injectors, ESP front mount and T-62 with .82 A/R exhuast housing. I had just about all the bolt ons also. With a 9.5 inch precsion 3500 stall. The car was a full weight WE4 with power everything except power seats. Still had power steering and AC and heater. Its also T-top. So it weights a good bit. But when I build my motor im takin the heater and everything out along with the AC and power steering. I am wanting to drive this car on the street sometimes but not everyday. I have a truck for that. Im getting Accel DFI within the next few weeks. Im also gonna get a MSD crank trigger and everthing to run it. Do stage 1 blocks have 4 bolt caps or is that only Stage 2.

 

[QuickWrench]

Do stage 1 blocks have 4 bolt caps or is that only Stage 2.

Stage 1 blocks came with 2-bolt caps, but can be machined for 4-bolt caps. They're available from a couple of outfits.

 

[Ormand]

Stage I

The Stage I blocks are the same casting as the Stage II blocks, but with less machine work done. They can be machined to accept the extra head bolts, too, as well as 4 bolt mains. The castings are made from a stronger alloy of cast iron than the stock blocks, and they have more reinforcement, as well as better oiling. If you're going to spend the money to get into the 9s, might as well start out with a block that will take the power!

 

[Justin Terry]

So I should just go ahead and get a stage 1 or stage 2 or TA. But with a stage 1 can I use my headers on that block and how hard is it to find a stage 1. Also how much power can a S1 take.

 

[dconnor]

Sorry for the off topic post....

Justin, I noticed that you are going to the School of Automotive Machinists (in Houston?)

Have you hooked up with the local Buick club yet? If not I can get you on our local email list, just drop me a note at: captaininsane-o@earthlink.net

Doug C.

BTW, just my semi-informed opinion but I feel that in a light weight car (3200 ~3000 lbs) you should be able to get away with a girdled stock block since the girdle ties the bottom of the block together much better than billet caps alone.

FYI: I run an RJC girlde with billet caps on the centers in my car.

 

[Race Jace]

you guys pretty much covered it. the stage 1 and 2's are getting harder and harder to find. Once you girdle a stock block your 8 bolt heads aren't be able to contain enough hp to hurt the bottom end.

there is not enough meat to add additional main bolts on a stock block.