PT6776 Dual BB shaft play?

rubes

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2004
I just got home tonight to fing my new PT67 BB turbo on my porch :) I noticed that the shaft "rocks" quite a bit. there seems to be no axial play, but the "rocking" scared me. Is this just because there is no oil in it? Even if it "rocks", the blades do not rub at all, but damn they are close.
Also, is there a prefered direction for the water flow? I was concidering a separate water system/radiator for this cooling, rather than use the engine coolant. Any reason why not?

Thanx
Rubes
 
Since I already answered you via PM I'll tell everyone here what I told you.

All dual ball bearing turbos have shaft play especially when brand new. Why? Because oil has not been run through the center cartridge. Once the oil runs through, it takes up the slack of the rotating assembly because it rides on a thin film of oil. This is perfectly normal!
 
thanks for clearing that up. I have a t67 in mind for my next turbo and would hate to hear a nasty story about it.

I thought there were some post on this awhile back, but i'm not sure. Just going off memory, which is messed up right now from all the Attic foil around my head :biggrin:
 
Thanx again Don...I kind of figured it was the oil thing, just wanted to make sure. you know, check, re-check, triple-check, and second guess everyone and everything on the these motors!!!
 
Not to take over your thread but I figure Id ask here, I just bought a T61 P-Trim BB from Full Throttle. So these things are lube by engine oil and water cooled? How does that work? Are you using the oil saver for the turbo? And where are you going to get the water from? Coolant pump? Thanks!
 
I used a Magnefine oil filter in the existing feed line to mine.

Some people use no filter, some use the Turbo Savers, some use Red Regal T's inline filter system he sells, I made mine.

I used the heater core hoses and drain with simple easy available plastic T's and off the shelf feed hoses from NAPA.

And lots of brass/chrome fittings to get the location and right angle bends off the turbo right to fit the hoses easily.

Some use the throttle body coolant lines plumbed into the turbo, I preferred to use a larger hose size than the fittings on the turbo however not a smaller line into a larger fitting as would be using the throttle body lines.
 
Rubes ...question for u.

rubes said:
I just got home tonight to fing my new PT67 BB turbo on my porch :) I noticed that the shaft "rocks" quite a bit. there seems to be no axial play, but the "rocking" scared me. Is this just because there is no oil in it? Even if it "rocks", the blades do not rub at all, but damn they are close.
Also, is there a prefered direction for the water flow? I was concidering a separate water system/radiator for this cooling, rather than use the engine coolant. Any reason why not?

Thanx
Rubes
What are the supporting components for that turbo u have?
 
salvageV6 said:
I used a Magnefine oil filter in the existing feed line to mine.

Some people use no filter, some use the Turbo Savers, some use Red Regal T's inline filter system he sells, I made mine.

I used the heater core hoses and drain with simple easy available plastic T's and off the shelf feed hoses from NAPA.

And lots of brass/chrome fittings to get the location and right angle bends off the turbo right to fit the hoses easily.

Some use the throttle body coolant lines plumbed into the turbo, I preferred to use a larger hose size than the fittings on the turbo however not a smaller line into a larger fitting as would be using the throttle body lines.

So you used hoses from NAPA to run coolant from the TB to the Turbo. And you recommend using a Turbo Saver for the oil supply? Where could I find this stuff at? Anything I need to worry about or pay special attention to? IE does the coolant lines or oil lines have to enter/flow a certain way? Thanks!
 
Brer Rabbit said:
What are the supporting components for that turbo u have?
Gary
Girdled .030 over 109 block, Eagle crank, Billet rods, Forged JE pistons, ported GN1's, BGC intake w/70mmTB, Front mount (cheap ebay at this time, but RJC is in the forseeable future), Still havent picked a cam, headers or injectors. Motor hasn't been built yet, just collecting parts for now. I did drive a car that had very few mods and a 67 (sleeve bearing though) and liked it alot.

My1stGN
I was going to use a filter of some kind on the oil feed line, just havnt decided what yet. I think Reds is probably a good choice. As for cooling, I was thinking of having its own coolant system with a small radiator and coolant pump. I hate babysitting a temp guage, and with the turbo heat and frontmount heat added to the radiator, I dont want to have to deal with it.
 
The hardest part of outfitting the turbo to run the water is the brass/chrome fittings to use on it.

You need to find relatively round pipe fittings not the large blocky squared off usual hardware store stuff since it has to spin on the turbo without interference to the housings to install it. Plumbing stuff works well but just mock it up outside the car to get one hose out the back and one hose at a right angle (front turbo fitting) vertical.

NAPA hose is an off the shelf item in 5/8" with about 4" up to a right angle and about 1.5-2 feet back to the heater core area. Trim to fit the long length the 4" rise was perfect for my car off the turbo fitting.

T's are available at most any shop including NAPA on the racks in the store, one 5/8" for the feed and one 3/4" for the drain.

Pipe fitting for the drain out the back of the turbo is a straight fit and I believe a chrome spectra fitting on the dress up parts area of Pep Boys is what I used via round pipe adapters from 1/2" NPT which is on the other end of the spectra fitting into the turbo which is 3/8" NPT I believe, bushing adapter used there to convert the threads.

Hose out the back is straight line bulk heater hose 3/4" to the drain T.

Fitting the turbo in the car and installing it was much much harder than installing the oil filter and water cooling afterwards in my case.

image.jpg


image.jpg


Relocating the heater water valve a few inches made the install easier, and yes it's an aftermarket NAPA valve, stocker can be relocated also assuming the spring is good in it.

http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/40092069/600/null/image.jpg[img]

You just need enough room to install the T's in place and short hoses to their previous destinations, I was able to use the stock short hose to the drain, so there's only a couple of custom short hoses and additional clamps on the car. I carry a spare T or coupler in each size (3/4" and 5/8") and a foot or two of heater hose in the trunk and a few clamps, nothing large to haul around and of course no issues yet and I don't expect any either since I'm prepared for them. :p

I just mocked up the oil filter with pre-made hoses I had lying around, and after test driving it and all I just left it in place after zip tying it, it ain't pretty but it's been working fine with no issues to speak of for over 15K street miles. Oil filter is a paper element with a donut magnet on the top of it, O rings on the top of the filter housing keep it sealed up yet easily removed for changing. Which is due this month, went 3 oil changes this time with the turbo filter, didn't see much of anything in the first one a 3K-4K miles.

[img]http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/40679702/600/null/image.jpg


Coolant on mine flows down to the front of the turbo and back out the back fitting on it, gravity keeps water into the housing when you shut the car off since it's hot in there, if anything boils it's replaced by gravity water feed.

Note the water fittings are front and back horizontally since the oil fittings are top and bottom vertically located.
 
NAPA 9811 heater hose, otherwise known as the 5/8" by 4" right angle heater hose out back. :p
 
Hey SalvageV6, Thanks for the info and the pics. Really helps out. How hard would it be to run an independant cooling system for the turbo? IE a small electric coolant pump, small resevoir with a little radiator? Im pretty sure I could make something work but my only question really is would it be worth it? I mean would this "independant system" pull away more heat and keep the turbo cooler than if the coolant was used from the engine? I would proble use like a trans cooler w/ fan for the "radiator" and run a small pump for it with about a 3-5 gallon resevoir. Any thoughts? Thanks! And did you run the filter for the oil before it reached the turbo right? Im thinking about going with the turbo saver system, do I still need an inline filter? :confused: :confused:
 
Played with rockets when I was a kid.

Don't know a thing about this but from what little I have read I would just drill out where the water feeds are to the throddle body in the hard lines and silver solder, braze, or weld in two bent nipples facing in the right direction in whatever size you like. :D :D :cool:

edit: or you could "plug" the original water feed fittings to the TB in the hard lines and drill new feed holes in a better/closer location.
 
My Magnefine filter is of course on the inlet line to the turbo with a few brass adapters same as the turbo saver and Red's setup does, filtered oil only to the turbo.

With the turbo saver you should be good to go with filtered oil always going to the turbo, that's the way it was designed. I don't like the leaky hoses some have with that system or relocating the oil filter which I think that system does, plus I have and like the RJC biggie oil filter setup already installed for my motors.

I don't think the turbo increases the water temp.s. much as I'm running 20 year old half plugged stock rads. here, in both my cars, and I do hit 210 tops in the summer with the A/C on in 100 degree weather, but that's rare, both rads. do need a good 3 row recore, I didn't really notice an increase in water temps. with the turbo install.

Never a problem in weather up to 90 degrees that's for sure.

I don't think I would want to add a water system to do it, plenty of flow and volume is available in the stock system even if the temp.s. are hot in the turbo the water should stay relatively cool with decent flow even in that local area, and no I haven't measured any of that, the bearing water cavity is a small area hence my desire for good flow using the heater hose send and receive rather than the throttle body lines, water doesn't sit in there too long that's for sure.

The water cooling was rather easy for me to do with off the shelf stuff excepting the right angle fitting to point the front hose barb upwards.

That barely cleared the turbo when rotated for the install, had to mill a couple of corners off a brass block squarish type fitting to get it to spin freely and not hit the turbo housing.

I don't weld so Williams idea is out for me, brazing might work but I'd want 3/8" lines and barbs installed, for a true fabricator that's another way to go for sure.

Just getting that stuff out of the car and fabbed up would take longer than the T's and modifying the stock water valve location, it really was easier that installing the turbo itself time wise and work wise.

That GT70 turbo had 10mm bolts for the drain tube, took a couple of hours to figure out the only solution was to drill out the braided drain line and gasket match it, and hope the gasket would seal, it did with 10mm nuts and studs in place.

Months later I found 8mm to 10mm studs that might have worked for that, they aren't easy to locate.

Then there was interference with the studs and nuts with the Postons headers at the turbo inlet not being able to get a wrench on the large nuts to spin them, had to modify one of the nuts to work etc.

Plumbing is easy especially with that teflon goop and good hose clamps, and NAPA nearby :)
 
soooo pretty

It costs $88 @ an aeroquip store for the two 90 degree fittings, two 14mm to -6 AN converters, Braided line and clamps with the pretty little covers to run to the coolant lines for the TB.
 
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