Pressure Test Decyphered ????

[tomard]

Performed pressure test today, but don't have a clue what it is telling me - any of you tranny experts willing to give me some idea of what I am looking at ???

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/azswede1960/2004rPressureTestResults.jpg

 

[tomard]

If it makes any difference, I have:

4BQ (BR3 valve body)
Superior Super Servo
TransGo shift kit:
1) (NO gold washers on either side of servo piston)
2) Modified sep plate (plug installed per TransGo) & 4 drilled holes
CK High Perf Pump
4th Gear Lockup switch

 

[bison]

M1 and M2 are too low.

 

[tomard]

Any ideas on how to fix???? Did I somehow mess it up using the TransGo kit on a BR3 valve body, or should I be looking elsewhere ????

 

[mikestertwo]

M1 and M2 are too low.

+1 Make sure the transfer tube on the valve body is seated all the way.

 

[bison]

Any ideas on how to fix???? Did I somehow mess it up using the TransGo kit on a BR3 valve body, or should I be looking elsewhere ????

Theres a big leak somewhere. Is there compression braking in M1 and M2? Maybe an overrun lip seal problem or sealing ring on input shaft omitted? Oil transfer tube loose?

 

[tomard]

Tomorrow, I will test and see if I have compression braking and will post results.

I am also planning on dropping pan to check for a loose transfer tube, if I remember correctly it did come out once when I was installing shift kit springs etc, but thought I pushed it back in snuggly .... I am pretty certain that the seals/rings were all installed & correct, but I have made mistakes before and I take nothing for 100% anymore :biggrin:

 

[tomard]

Yeah

I think I found ONE problem anyway .... as you guys told me, check the oil tube, and I found that the rear of tube (closest to rear axle) actually went into tranny about 1/4" as I pushed it up.

Before I put the pan back on:

1) What should the VB bolts be torqued to?
2) Should the J-hook be under or over the crows foot, I think it is over it (closest to ground) ???

 

[77 cruiser]

I think I found ONE problem anyway .... as you guys told me, check the oil tube, and I found that the rear of tube (closest to rear axle) actually went into tranny about 1/4" as I pushed it up.

Before I put the pan back on:

1) What should the VB bolts be torqued to?
2) Should the J-hook be under or over the crows foot, I think it is over it (closest to ground) ???

That would do it.

100-110 INCH pounds if I remember right
J hook referring to the clamp that hold the tube. If so it has to hold the tube in place.

 

[tomard]

Oh - what have I done to my BQ/BR3

Got the M1 & M2 pressures up ..... wasn't overheating (didn't drive it much), and was putting around ready to take her out on hwy, when tranny started shuttering pretty violently in OD and 3rd ....

Had to drive in M2 and about 20mph to get her home .....

I don't give up easily, but am starting to wonder if I have done this all in vain ..... and need to take the BQ to a real professional (like most of you guys are). I was hoping to be able to do it, learn about auto transmissions and get it to go, but maybe it is beyond me :frown:

Anyway, suggestions??? Since there don't seem to be any hotrod 2004r guys around Atlanta area, and I want to KNOW what I messed up on with rebuild and shift kit, so that all was not in vain.

Would be really nice if someone would go through it, fix whatever it is and give me details on what needed fixing! And then there is the logistics of getting it to THE MAN ..... the further away the more $$$ to ship (Now I wish I still lived in Vegas!!!!)

Guess I could slap my TH350 back in for a while .......

 

[bison]

Got the M1 & M2 pressures up ..... wasn't overheating (didn't drive it much), and was putting around ready to take her out on hwy, when tranny started shuttering pretty violently in OD and 3rd ....

Had to drive in M2 and about 20mph to get her home .....

I don't give up easily, but am starting to wonder if I have done this all in vain ..... and need to take the BQ to a real professional (like most of you guys are). I was hoping to be able to do it, learn about auto transmissions and get it to go, but maybe it is beyond me :frown:

Anyway, suggestions??? Since there don't seem to be any hotrod 2004r guys around Atlanta area, and I want to KNOW what I messed up on with rebuild and shift kit, so that all was not in vain.

Would be really nice if someone would go through it, fix whatever it is and give me details on what needed fixing! And then there is the logistics of getting it to THE MAN ..... the further away the more $$$ to ship (Now I wish I still lived in Vegas!!!!)

Guess I could slap my TH350 back in for a while .......

Sounds like the converter is locking and unlocking. Try disconnecting the 4 pin connector and go on a quick road test. Do not go on a long highway cruise with it though.

 

[tomard]

Something weird is happening - when I disconnect electrical connector, I lose all gears When I hook it back up, I have OD, R, 3rd .... no M1/M2at all now ....

The connector has 12v coming through a vacuum switch & it has a ground coming from case, through my in-cabin switch to have a way to L/U manually if I want .....

The ground from switch goes to neg side of TCC solenoid & a N.O 4th gear switch for lockup during 4th gear. The 12v wire goes to pos side of TCC solenoid. I wouldn't have a solenoid problem would I????

 

[bison]

Something weird is happening - when I disconnect electrical connector, I lose all gears When I hook it back up, I have OD, R, 3rd .... no M1/M2at all now ....

The connector has 12v coming through a vacuum switch & it has a ground coming from case, through my in-cabin switch to have a way to L/U manually if I want .....

The ground from switch goes to neg side of TCC solenoid & a N.O 4th gear switch for lockup during 4th gear. The 12v wire goes to pos side of TCC solenoid. I wouldn't have a solenoid problem would I????

The 4 pins at the connector have no effects on the gears and shift points at all. Only to tell the ecm when its in 3rd and 4th as well as the TCC 12v and ground. Thats it. Everything else is hydraulic/mechanical.

 

[tomard]

Alright, back on the road, have good line pressures in all gears now. I have not tore into my BQ yet, but instead put my KTF back in ..... Hopefully go on a cruise tomorrow .....

This way I am not freakin' while "going back in" to find out why the hell I am loosing pressure in M1 & M2 .....

Could I have installed pump gasket incorrectly and blocked some passages, thereby losing pressure in M1 & M2, or would that affect more? I guess I will find it eventually .......

 

[tomard]

Update

I have tore back into it ..... can you spell OCD :redface: ?

So far, I have not found any missing, broken rings, seals etc, BUT have found:

1) Pump was missing the little filter
2) 2nd band was TIGHT, too tight, as the center of red band was blackened.

On topic of band, when I have servo in, what SHOULD my clearance be between band and drum, using a feeler gauge?

Since the band is blackened in the middle, should I discard it and get a new one?

3) I am going to air test components again to see if I developed a leak somewhere, but so far I don't see where my PROBLEMS could be:

A) Losing pressure (less than 50psi in Manual 1st & Manual 2nd gear), Had almost 200psi with my 2nd (spare) KTF tranny (I sold it & just used it to test with)
B) Getting hot, over 250*, that I think has to do with lockup issue .... seemed like it would lock up, but not unlock unless I pressed break pedal ...
problem with 4th gear pressure switch not opening ground when downshifting maybe? I have stock side radiator cooler AND external alum finned 18" coolers hooked up and good flow.

Any suggestions from you Extreme Tranny SMART guys?????

 

[tomard]

Another Update

I went through and did all the airtests - NO LEAKS

 

[A2000RICH]

I went through and did all the airtests - NO LEAKS

if you don't get it fixed anytime soon if you find yourself coming near northcarolina you are welcome to stop by my shop and i will be glad to go through the thing with you----probably something simple..........RC

 

[tomard]

if you don't get it fixed anytime soon if you find yourself coming near northcarolina you are welcome to stop by my shop and i will be glad to go through the thing with you----probably something simple..........RC

Thanks Rich - Will probably take you up on generous offer, if I don't get it this time!!! I am getting one of the INFRONT of radiator heavy duty coolers to battle the heat issue, new wide band on the way, and a spare TCC solenoid, just in case!

Questions: (probably not a very good ones):

1) IF the 700r4 NORMALLY OPEN pressure switch that I have in 4th gear valve body location, to provide LOCKUP, by providing GROUND when pressure is applied, by CLOSING, is removed: At what point, should I MANUALLY provide ground/TCC lockup (by in cabin switch)? 45-50mph on the hwy?

2) Drive around town in 3rd gear and not think about lockup????

3) Servo/Band adjustment: Where is my clearance checked before buttoning the thing back up? Between band and drum (1/8") movement by pushing on outside of band, towards drum? IF that is right, my band was WAY TOO TIGHT (almost had NO CLEARANCE at all, was up on the drum), and WITH the Transgo washers on either side of servo piston, IT MUST HAVE BEEN TIGHT as #$*# !

 

[77 cruiser]

Check the band clearance by pushing in on the servo cover, it should have about .060-.090 travel.

 

[A2000RICH]

Thanks Rich - Will probably take you up on generous offer, if I don't get it this time!!! I am getting one of the INFRONT of radiator heavy duty coolers to battle the heat issue, new wide band on the way, and a spare TCC solenoid, just in case!

Questions: (probably not a very good ones):

1) IF the 700r4 NORMALLY OPEN pressure switch that I have in 4th gear valve body location, to provide LOCKUP, by providing GROUND when pressure is applied, by CLOSING, is removed: At what point, should I MANUALLY provide ground/TCC lockup (by in cabin switch)? 45-50mph on the hwy?

2) Drive around town in 3rd gear and not think about lockup????

3) Servo/Band adjustment: Where is my clearance checked before buttoning the thing back up? Between band and drum (1/8") movement by pushing on outside of band, towards drum? IF that is right, my band was WAY TOO TIGHT (almost had NO CLEARANCE at all, was up on the drum), and WITH the Transgo washers on either side of servo piston, IT MUST HAVE BEEN TIGHT as #$*# !

i might be missing something???--------why not fix the switch???
as for the servo band---------heres a really simple method---------assemble the tranny to the center support so the direct and forward drum are in place------install the 2 servo---------place a yoke (from an old driveshaft) in the tailstock and try to turn it-------it must turn freely in BOTH directions-----if it turns freely in both directions start adding shims a little at a time till it doesn't-------when you reach the point of hard to turn remove about 25 thousandths worth and it should be fine--------then you should be able to just get the end of a 90 degree hook pic under the band and lift it ever so slightly----------but this is not really an issue--------with those pump pressures you post you have a much bigger problem than second band adjustment-------it would be worth your time to stop by-------i have a really nice fixture that allows for testing the pump pressures BEFORE installation in a car-------makes life easy.................RC