Possible blown head gasket

Hey Brian. So instead of the classic getting too much air to # 6 leanout that got me last year I am now getting too little fuel to # 1 since it is at the end of the line? This did happen after switching to 120 lb injectors recently. Fuel pressure log was looking good up to 15 psi boost when the data logger disconnected. No knock on the knock gauge when it let go. I have not run my cowl mount fuel pressure gauge since switching to the 120's however. When I first switched to 80's the cowl mount showed a big fuel pressure flutter that the data logger did not register. Switching to dual in tank pumps fixed that. Should I go to the larger dual in-tank pumps now? I have the dual 255's now. Could go to the bigger ones. Or do I need to switch to a dual feed rail setup? I do not want to go to an external pump.
 
I talked to the machine shop and have mostly good news. They cut about 5 thou off the heads and they are flat and smooth again so I am going to re-use them.
I asked them to cc the chambers as well as let me know what the previous install height was on the springs since I did not have this info from the original build by my old machine shop. Chambers were all between 44 and 45 cc. The disturbing thing was that the k-motion 750 springs were installed at 1.76 and tested at around 95 lb seat pressure. Way too low for the 218/212 hydraulic roller cam I am running. WTF? Why would my old machine shop install these springs at such a low seat pressure when I gave them the cam and lifter kit etc. still in the boxes with all the installation instructions?? Not happy about that at all. I was floating the valves for sure at high rpm. Anyway I have a plan to put everything back together now.

1. I am going to go ahead and pull the motor since I am only 11 bolts and 1 wire away from being able to remove it at this point. I have not pulled the heads on a motor while still in the car since 1985. No fun and my back hurts now. Way easier to work on it on the stand and I will have a better chance of getting everything right.

2. While motor is on the stand I will pull the pan and check the number 1 rod bearing at a minimum.

3. I am going to go to head studs this time. I did a lot of reading and that seems to be the way to go. Will follow recommended procedures and re-torque on the stand etc.

4. The new engine shop did a complete teardown, hot tank, freeze plugs, valve surface and lap, new seals, mill the surface, etc. on the heads. I read on here and had the shop install the spring height at 1.700 and check to be sure they had around 130 seat pressure as shown on the K-Motion website. I could have probably had them shim them a little more since my lift at the intake valve is .545 but I figure 130 lb is still way better than 95 lb seat pressure.

5. I am going with the .040 Cometic head gaskets this time instead of the .060. I caught the .040's on that sale Jegs had so they were cheap. This will raise my compression ratio from 9.1 to 9.5 which everyone says should be fine since I only run E85. I also read on here that since the .060's have more layers than the .040's they are easier to blow. I will be checking the piston to valve clearance to be safe as well as making sure my pushrods are still the correct length.

6. Lastly and most importantly I an going to dial back the boost and timing and address any fuel supply and tuning issues I may have so I do not have to go through this process again. This was my second blown head gasket in 2 years.

I am still amazed at all of the mistakes I have found in this motor that the "professionals" made 5 years ago when I originally had it built. Definitely going to continue to do my own work from here on out. I would have never figured out all of these issues without the knowledge on this board. Thanks.
 
Update.
I ended up going with the PAC 1201 valve springs installed at 1.730 for around 140 on the seat.
More importantly I pulled the motor and took the pan off and the oil was a little milkshaked after all. I pulled the number one rod cap and it did not look too bad but I am doing a complete rebuild now.
I will post a new thread when I get the block measured up. I am determined to get this motor right this time. I have the heads back and they are all good. Now I just have to address the rest of the motor.
 
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