I'm not picking on Scoobys, The're a very impressive little cars. I'm just saying it's like comparing apples to oranges. One is a only a few years old, the other is almost twenty. Computers, programing and technology has evolved so far between the production dates on our vehicles that it's hard to compare them at that level.
Popping problem. - Bad ground?
- Thread starter kenny
- Start date
Believe me, I know all about the differences of the two cars. I have had a subaru apart into thousands of little pieces. Usually goes back together with no funny gremlins to chase down. My point was, if you get frustrated, or go broke, or get sick of being towed home with a GN, Give a Suby a try. They are tough little boggers. At least the motor faces the right direction. I have the plans to turn mine into RWD. I have a strong dogbox tranny, and I was planning on welding up the center diff. I can pick up the front left wheel and motor tachs up when launching.
Let us know if you find out your problem with popping. I am now curious.
Scott
Let us know if you find out your problem with popping. I am now curious.
Scott
It's possible, but I kind of doubt it. For ****s and giggles I swap it with another and see what happens.
I think the ECM issue may have been the DS cable pushed on too far. Hasn't done it since I moved it.
Used different plugs/wires/module/coil pack, it's not spark related.
Disconnected the volt booster and no change.
What do you mean? there is not much different between the two. Injector upgrade, same, Many more parts for suby. Same price for turbos, intercoolers, etc. A suby racing short block assembled from factory is only $1200. Fully closed, oil squirters. Motor is very easy to get to everything. Need a better tranny for subaru if you want to go into 11s. I bought a $9000 australian dogbox. It has straight cut gears, and comes with a three year racing warranty Drive train is much better on a suby! 10.9@ 130mph on a stock block! Try that with a dsm.
So, have you fixed your popping prob.? If not, Please try a good Alt. Let us know.
Scott
So, have you fixed your popping prob.? If not, Please try a good Alt. Let us know.
Scott
http://www.shepracing.com/videos/shep876.avi
That car has a stock block, crank, and a stock tranny.
DSM's will walk all over Suby's for the dollar.
Haven't had a chance to touch the car, been busy with other things.
That car has a stock block, crank, and a stock tranny.
DSM's will walk all over Suby's for the dollar.
Haven't had a chance to touch the car, been busy with other things.
Fuel Pressure
Mine did the same thing!! It ran perfect from 0 to about 17 lbs of boost but after that it would pop very badly. It was a big headache trying to figure this one out. I replace Cam sensor, crank sensor, injector harness, tps sensor, module, coil pack and nothing fixed it. A friend of mine told me to lower fuel pressure and I did not believe this would affect anything but it sure help the problem. I had my fuel pressure set at 43 psi without vacuum so I lowered it to 38 psi without vacuum. My car was now able to go up to 22 lb of boost with no problem. I run 72 lb injectors and a double pumper fuel system. I feel your frustration with these Buicks. They are awesome cars but you get your share of problems along with them.
Mine did the same thing!! It ran perfect from 0 to about 17 lbs of boost but after that it would pop very badly. It was a big headache trying to figure this one out. I replace Cam sensor, crank sensor, injector harness, tps sensor, module, coil pack and nothing fixed it. A friend of mine told me to lower fuel pressure and I did not believe this would affect anything but it sure help the problem. I had my fuel pressure set at 43 psi without vacuum so I lowered it to 38 psi without vacuum. My car was now able to go up to 22 lb of boost with no problem. I run 72 lb injectors and a double pumper fuel system. I feel your frustration with these Buicks. They are awesome cars but you get your share of problems along with them.
I know Sheppard, and I could not get video to work. I only got the audio. But if that was sheppards car, you are full of crap. Marco at Magnus motors builds his motors for a very high price. Sleeved and very modded! I will not argue with you on this subject, but I hate transverse mounted motors!
Scott
Scott
I do not understand the 10min. rule for editing. What's up with that? Now I have to post another one.
O.K. Maby sheppard is using a stock crank, I do not know. But a Stock Tranny? There are 8sec wrxs out there. I am well aware of the DSM products avaliable, and have seen plenty of slow, broken DSM at tracks. Just because one guy can go fast does not mean all DSM's are great. I think they are POS cars. Bad clutches, heads, trans, drivetrain, etc. Broken axels, diffs, blown head gaskets. Subaru wrx has been avaliable in japan and australia for over 12 years, and raced and won 10x more than DSMs. Subaru wrx is built by the Japanese equivilent to Catapillar USA. Fuji Heavy Industries. They make Japanese earth movers, etc.
How about that pop? How is it going?
Scott
O.K. Maby sheppard is using a stock crank, I do not know. But a Stock Tranny? There are 8sec wrxs out there. I am well aware of the DSM products avaliable, and have seen plenty of slow, broken DSM at tracks. Just because one guy can go fast does not mean all DSM's are great. I think they are POS cars. Bad clutches, heads, trans, drivetrain, etc. Broken axels, diffs, blown head gaskets. Subaru wrx has been avaliable in japan and australia for over 12 years, and raced and won 10x more than DSMs. Subaru wrx is built by the Japanese equivilent to Catapillar USA. Fuji Heavy Industries. They make Japanese earth movers, etc.
How about that pop? How is it going?
Scott
Could you guys please argue about the DSMs or bitch about the editing rule in a different thread/forum.
Kenny - I now remember that you had to buy some gimmicky alternator to bring the car to Salem (chromed unit right?) Bring the car by my house and you can borrow the alternator from FAST V6 to prove or dis-prove that theory. I know it works well.
If the car is popping whether or not DirectScan is connected, then its pretty obvious that DS is not the problem. I have not yet witnessed this popping and thus cannot comment on what may be the problem based on a text-version of a symptom. If fuel pressure is rock solid under boost, I'd check the plugs for any signs of misfire. Removing the wolt booster is a good idea simply because it eliminates a possible problem piece. I also have plenty of unused spark plug wires laying around.
Unfortunately, I will not be around this weekend.
Remember the popping is the symptom. The problem is not yet identified.
Kenny - I now remember that you had to buy some gimmicky alternator to bring the car to Salem (chromed unit right?) Bring the car by my house and you can borrow the alternator from FAST V6 to prove or dis-prove that theory. I know it works well.
If the car is popping whether or not DirectScan is connected, then its pretty obvious that DS is not the problem. I have not yet witnessed this popping and thus cannot comment on what may be the problem based on a text-version of a symptom. If fuel pressure is rock solid under boost, I'd check the plugs for any signs of misfire. Removing the wolt booster is a good idea simply because it eliminates a possible problem piece. I also have plenty of unused spark plug wires laying around.
Unfortunately, I will not be around this weekend.
Remember the popping is the symptom. The problem is not yet identified.
Originally posted by Scott231
Could you guys please argue about the DSMs or bitch about the editing rule in a different thread/forum.
Kenny - I now remember that you had to buy some gimmicky alternator to bring the car to Salem (chromed unit right?) Bring the car by my house and you can borrow the alternator from FAST V6 to prove or dis-prove that theory. I know it works well.
If the car is popping whether or not DirectScan is connected, then its pretty obvious that DS is not the problem. I have not yet witnessed this popping and thus cannot comment on what may be the problem based on a text-version of a symptom. If fuel pressure is rock solid under boost, I'd check the plugs for any signs of misfire. Removing the wolt booster is a good idea simply because it eliminates a possible problem piece. I also have plenty of unused spark plug wires laying around.
Unfortunately, I will not be around this weekend.
Remember the popping is the symptom. The problem is not yet identified.
Ya, it's was kind of a last minute buy to get the car to Salem. It's just a normal off the shelf Auto Zone one. I used the same one (part number wise) on the grey car and never had any problem.
The dropout is what I was talking about has only happened with DS connected, I think I simply put the cable on too far. I know DS has nothing to do with the popping.
I pulled the plugs and looked at them, seemed normal to me. I have removed the volt booster (it's a Red's so it has a connector on it that replaces the factory one - I have the factory connector with a male end on it, and a female end on the stock wire) - no change.
Check the grounds to the back of the head on the passanger side. If not already,relocate them to the last bolt on the intake.
If that does not make the problem go away, re-adjust your cam sensor. Last but not least check the power wires on your starter.
Mario mgttype
If that does not make the problem go away, re-adjust your cam sensor. Last but not least check the power wires on your starter.
Mario mgttype
elevensecondv6
Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2002
Any more suggestions out there????
I've got one you probably don't want to hear. My car ran perfect up to 15 lbs of boost but above that pop,pop,pop. Changed everything you could think of, nothing. Took the drivers side valve cover off and noticed one of the rocker arms not moving as much as the rest. You guessed it, wiped cam lobe! Hope this is not your problem. R.B.
themodfather
TR newb
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2004
he said reliableOriginally posted by kenny
Suby's cost way the hell too much to modify.
I have a DSM.
Check for AC voltage coming from your alternator
If you are seeing any more than 300mv, you may have found your problem. It will still charge fine but...... Some folks think of a diode as a one way valve, when in reality, it has very high resistance in one direction, and low in the other. If one is leaking enough AC voltage, it can wreak havok.
If you are seeing any more than 300mv, you may have found your problem. It will still charge fine but......
Some folks think of a diode as a one way valve, when in reality, it has very high resistance in one direction, and low in the other. If one is leaking enough AC voltage, it can wreak havok.
