Please help knock

[SCOOBY DOO]

Would one of those Casper's Volt boosters work good in this case? I don't know much about them so I am asking as much as anything on this one. If they work as they say they do, it seems like having one is a little insurance against low voltage.

I have a Caspers V Plus volt booster...and yes it works. Voltage is 15.6 via PL on my car at WOT. They work great...on a properly functioning charging system. As the other gentleman stated...they're a bandaid solution for a weak charging system.

 

[1952ray]

I have a Caspers V Plus volt booster...and yes it works. Voltage is 15.6 via PL on my car at WOT. They work great...on a properly functioning charging system. As the other gentleman stated...they're a bandaid solution for a weak charging system.

Not trying to hijack this thread. However how do you hook up the volt booster if the Alky is already plug up to the TPS

 

[xrunner123]

I took some measurements in the garage. OCV of the battery with car off sitting overnight is ~12.0V. From my battery charger design experience it should be ~12.7V fully charged for lead acid but it's been awhile. This was after the other day of driving so it should be charged but the low voltage indicates ~50% state of charge or maybe a bad battery?? With the car running I get ~14.3V at the battery terminals with the powerlogger reading ~0.5V less. Battery is 5 or 6 years old so I'm going to replace it and retest.

 

[xrunner123]

I replaced the battery and have the similar results except wot in 2nd gear has slightly less knock but from a stop is the same.
I'm looking at the wiring and noticed that there is only 1 gnd wire from the battery that goes to the front of the motor. Is this correct?
And there is a gnd wire cut near the battery. Please see the attached pictures- one of the cut wire and the other of a gnd relocation kit that was on the car when I got it.

Am I missing a ground from the battery to the head (or gnd relocation kit)?
Thanks.

 

[Raeban]

I replaced the battery and have the similar results except wot in 2nd gear has slightly less knock but from a stop is the same.
I'm looking at the wiring and noticed that there is only 1 gnd wire from the battery that goes to the front of the motor. Is this correct?
And there is a gnd wire cut near the battery. Please see the attached pictures- one of the cut wire and the other of a gnd relocation kit that was on the car when I got it.

Am I missing a ground from the battery to the head (or gnd relocation kit)?
Thanks.
View attachment 233144 View attachment 233145

The ground cut at the battery terminal goes to the fender just above the battery and IIRC is shared by the wiring harness to the lights.

 

[ScottyG]

u can check ur alternator by disconnecting ur battery (pos cable) while the car is running. if the car stalls instancely the alternator is not charging!

 

[earlbrown]

u can check ur alternator by disconnecting ur battery (pos cable) while the car is running. if the car stalls instancely the alternator is not charging!

DO NOT do that test. It's a great way to smoke the living shit out of your electronics!

Without a battery to act as a buffer the alternator can send whatever voltage and A/C ripple it wants into VERY expensive electricals.

That test was fine on old carbureted farm trucks with points and no radio, but not on anything modern.

 

[xrunner123]

deleted

 

[Eric Stage I]

MAF is not working right. Double check the connections.

 

[xrunner123]

I double checked the connections. Pins look good.
Now it does not idle after cold start at all.
It starts then stalls. See dat file.
Does a bad MAF do this? I though maf comes into play after it's warmed up??
Thanks

 

[xrunner123]

Nevermind found it. Too embarrassing to mention....

 

[xrunner123]

New alternator and new battery and same story. Builds boost then 15 KR.
PL attached. Anybody have any idea?
Is this false knock? If so is it safe to unplug knock sensor temporarily?
Thanks so much. I really need to figure this out.. very frustrating...

 

[1952ray]

Would NOT un-plug the knock sensor. Bad idea. Replace The MAF.

 

[xrunner123]

Here is a PL screenshot.

 

[Fast4Ward]

inspect ur downpipe for marks, check tranny mount, get someone in the car foot on brake and check to see if that downpipe or something else might be problem as you view the motor twist.
how the tensioner clack?
dial the boost down to a few pounds and tryagain after fixing your maf

 

[xrunner123]

inspect ur downpipe for marks, check tranny mount, get someone in the car foot on brake and check to see if that downpipe or something else might be problem as you view the motor twist.
how the tensioner clack?
dial the boost down to a few pounds and tryagain after fixing your maf

How do I check the transmission mount? How do I know it it's bad?
Also what is "how the tensioner clack?" I have HR motor mounts and motor does not move under load.
And why do you say MAF is bad?
Thanks