Pats converter

[turbo nasty]

Smaller is better for fin angle in converters altho a 2800 isnt very high so just the weight savings would be a factor.

Thats not true when dealing with a L/U convertor.

The smaller convertor will have less room for both fins and the L/U pcs so its extremely crucial to have it built right.

Weight savings aside the slip will slow you down unlocked.

Smaller convertor, L/U up and a 3000+ stall will have be more prone to "Lay over" on the big end.

Key to "Fin Angle" in a L/U conv is the keeping it as tight as possible for the setup you have. Other wise it will be a turd on the big end and teh energy will just spin away in the slip %.

FWIW a few years back going from a D5 a to a 10" 3k I lost 7 MPH and 5 tenths now this was unlocked at WOT. Due to the conv being too loose.

 

[scot w.]

Here is a picture of my PTC converter that was behind a TE-44 turbo running 20 psi boost. Less than 2 yrs old and had a total of (7) 1/8th mile passes on it..

We are really not sure what happened to cause this (may be a fluke accident,who know's) but whatever did happen, it totally took out the converter and shot all kinds of metal shavings in my newly rebuilt trans. This kind of little "Mishap" can sure cause alot of $$ in damage..


Scot W.

I don't want you guy's to think PTC converters are bad, I simply put my pic's up to show people what happened to me and my PTC converter, In no means does this reflect what can or will happen to you or your PTC converter... This is simply just an example of what happened to mine in the mentioned time frame and could very well be a freak accident...


Note: GNS Performance has now picked up a new converter company who doubles there warranty over the leading company's out there now and is proud to stand by there warranty! They offer a full 1yr warranty over a 6mo warranty so that must tell you they are confident of the product they put out.. They happen to weld up ("Tig" - Tac-weld ) every single fin of there converters, like the pro's have done to there's... Get the pro's performance at an entry level price!!!

PS: All converters come standard with every single fin welded up (Tacked with a TIG) for strength....

2004r = 10" GM (weld-up) With billit cover and hand built steel stator = $1,250.00
2004r = 10" GM (bolt-together) with aluminum cover and 2 hand built steel stators $2,250.00.
2004r = 9" (Weld-up) Non-L/U With steel Billit cover = $750.00
2004r = 9" (Weld-up) Lock-up Single clutch With steel Billit cover = $ 900.00
2004r = 9" GM (Bolt-togther) with steel billet cover = $1,250.00.

** These are VERY Strong converters that will last for a very long time.....

This pricing will soon be available right from our website, Please alow us the time to up-load all the proper information onto our website, we will soon be able to serve the Buick comunity properly, In the mean time you can simply give us a call at (865) 680-4008 and we will be more than happy to take your order and help you in any way we can..



Scot W.

 

[Aegis]

Ok so let me ask you what you recommend. Currently Im running out of motor at the big end with the 3.73's, so Im going back to 3.42's. I have 0lbs of boost at the line and I want to have some boost to launch, but not go flat on the big end. What converter???

 

[Aegis]

Im running 255/60/16 M/T et streets and Im running out of motor on the big end, so Im going back to 3.42's.

 

[Pronto]

I'm running the same tires and stock gears, stock cam and bigger turbo. See my sig.

 

[GNeric]

I built a 2004R for a customer and his car originally had a Pat's 10'' in it and when I sent it off to my converter guy to cut open and do whatever was needed, he said it was a very well built converter. Freshened it up and balanced it and shipped it back. Daniel says he needs to get to the track this year but otherwise, he said the car is great. I personally have a Vigilante in my 87 and in my hybrid will have one of the 10" 3200 stalls that my guy builds. Great converters for the money.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Thats not true when dealing with a L/U convertor.

The smaller convertor will have less room for both fins and the L/U pcs so its extremely crucial to have it built right.

Weight savings aside the slip will slow you down unlocked.

Smaller convertor, L/U up and a 3000+ stall will have be more prone to "Lay over" on the big end.

Key to "Fin Angle" in a L/U conv is the keeping it as tight as possible for the setup you have. Other wise it will be a turd on the big end and teh energy will just spin away in the slip %.

FWIW a few years back going from a D5 a to a 10" 3k I lost 7 MPH and 5 tenths now this was unlocked at WOT. Due to the conv being too loose.

Lonnie Diers and I recently had a long discussion concerning trans and converter tech.

There can be some issues when using some of the new more efficient lock-up converters. The tighter a converter gets, the more fluid it is moving. This can cause the clutch in a lock-up converter to apply itself. It's much harder to experience this with a more stock type rebuild with lower line pressures. With the higher line pressures you see in a performance built transmission, the problem can be aggrivated and even cause the clutches in the 2600 and 2800 stalls to self apply. The use of a transbrake can also aggrivate the issue.

In the future, those who are wanting a transmission capable of 10 second times or want to use a trans brake need to be aware of the downside of a lock-up converter. Lots of us never wanted to get away from the lock-up functions but as we all continue to push the envelope further, the non lock converter will need to be more of a consideration when dreaming up new combinations.

Both Lonnie and I can go over some info with anyone putting together a new combination where they want to stick with lock-up.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Ok so let me ask you what you recommend. Currently Im running out of motor at the big end with the 3.73's, so Im going back to 3.42's. I have 0lbs of boost at the line and I want to have some boost to launch, but not go flat on the big end. What converter???

Stock cam?

2800 would be as loose as you want to go but possibly tighter depending on rpm range.

 

[turbo nasty]

Lonnie Diers and I recently had a long discussion concerning trans and converter tech.

There can be some issues when using some of the new more efficient lock-up converters. The tighter a converter gets, the more fluid it is moving. This can cause the clutch in a lock-up converter to apply itself. It's much harder to experience this with a more stock type rebuild with lower line pressures. With the higher line pressures you see in a performance built transmission, the problem can be aggrivated and even cause the clutches in the 2600 and 2800 stalls to self apply. The use of a transbrake can also aggrivate the issue.

In the future, those who are wanting a transmission capable of 10 second times or want to use a trans brake need to be aware of the downside of a lock-up converter. Lots of us never wanted to get away from the lock-up functions but as we all continue to push the envelope further, the non lock converter will need to be more of a consideration when dreaming up new combinations.

Both Lonnie and I can go over some info with anyone putting together a new combination where they want to stick with lock-up.

Thanx for the info Dusty....that makes sense and is another area of concern for sure when chosing the correct setup.