"P" vs "LT" tires for SUV & Trucks

[tom h]

My 94 K-Blazer SUV was coming due for tires, and after 11 yrs, the clearcoat on the OEM aluminum wheels was turning blotchy and yellow.

I picked up a new set of "take offs" from the dealer. These are brand new, factory OEM aluminum wheels & tires, that are "taken off" a new vehicle when the dealer installs an aftermarket wheel package or does an "off road" conversion.

The ones I got are #1 in the photo. A great deal, $500 for a set of 4 new wheels and tires!! Some dealers sell for as low as $400 a set.

Here's my dilemma. The new tires are Firestone OEM "P" series, whereas before I always bought "LT" (light truck) tires.

GM now only offers "P" tires for all Tahoes, 1/2-ton Suburbans and, and 1/2-ton trucks. The only vehicles coming with LT tires are the 3/4-ton SUVs and trucks.

The "P" series seem like wrinkle-wall slicks in comparison to the LT's. The truck is significantly softer riding (and quieter!) with "P" tires. Not a bad thing! When I park and let the tires roll against the concrete parking stop-block, I can see the "P" tires noticeably indent more than LT tires ever did.

The carmakers have adopted "P" tires to pander to all the women driving SUVs, with a cell phone in one hand, a half-caffe/no fat/extra foamy/double/frip-frappy latte in the other hand, and 3 screaming kids in the backseat.

My concern is increased risk of road hazard damage with P-tires, eg potholes and an occasional small obstacle at speed. With Michelin LT tires I *never* had any blowouts, bulges, tread separation, etc.

Am I being overly paranoid? Anyone have experiences with P vs LT durability for highway driving?

 

[tom h]

forgot the wheel pics.

 

[fullahotair]

I just bought a set michelins and got the LT series with the load range E, which i think most of the LT tires are. The LT series allows better handling with loads and load capacity than the P series i believe. Never tried the P series however, i have always preferred the added benefits of the LT series, which have the extra steel belt. Unfortunately you LT series are more costly...If the truck never sees a load or goes offroad, i may consider the P series.......So not sure my two cents helped you at all...


N8

 

[1ARUNEM]

As mentioned, if you do alot of hauling/towing, you want to go with the LT's. They will hold up alot better and less chance of overheat/blowout.

However, for a daily driver that only sees occasional "truck" use (i.e. hauling, trailering, etc.) the "P's" will be just fine.

I have run "P's" on my Yukon for 5 years with no problem. In fact I am going today to get a new set to replace the current ones. I got 45k miles out of them (probably a bit more there but rather safe than sorry). This is on a 4x4 Yukon. I think 45k miles is pretty good for tires on such a big bulky 4wd vehicle.

HTH..

 

[tom h]

I've never done any towing (yet).

My hauling has been generally under 1000 lbs (2 passengers plus vacation or household stuff in the back).

Seems I should be fine with P-metric.

If I ever get to the point where I might want to trailer/tow the GN, then I'll consider upgrading to LT tires.

 

[Reaper]

LTs are not that much more its worth the extra peace of mind IMO

if you look really hard you can get a set of brigestone v stars with wheels for about 250.00 in the paper. people take them off to get new bigger wheels and tires all the time. its a cheap easy way to get a nice set of tires that dont have a lot of wear or abuse.

 

[Doug Jacobson]

The P merely stands for 'Passenger' LT for 'Light Truck'

LT tires have different load ranges. 1/2 ton trucks with LT tires will usually have C load ranges (seen these OEM on Z71 pickups and the such) Then there are 'D' rated tires which are a heavy tire for a 1/2 ton or a light tire for a 3/4 ton. E range tires are 3/4-1 ton issue. They have the heavest load capabilties, but ride like a lumber wagon.