Overheating-Electric Pump?

[DVADER]

I have tried everything to try and get the temp down on this car. I have recently switched an entire setup from another car which was rarely street driven and here is the combo. Basic rebuilt stock short block with GN-1's, 206-206, TE-44, ATR headers, and other basic mods. More to the point are CAS V2 front mount , Cas Aluminum radiator, Flexalite dual fans, 160 degree thermostat and Meziere electric water pump. The car will run around 180 down the highway but goes right off the chart when in traffic and this is without AC on on 70 degree days. Temp will go right on above 220 in no time and peg the gauge (autometer gauge but have backed it up with Direct Scan). I believe that the car should sit on the thermostat on the highway and below 200 in traffic from the post that I have read. We have tried straight water, checked the thermostat, checked to see that all areas were sealed from outside air, etc. I talked to a knowledgeable mechanic today that thinks the Miziere pump may be moving the water too quickly and not allowing the radiator the time to cool. Has anyone ever had this problem or am I missing something else more obvious. Thanks

 

[Intercooler]

Well you are in TX How hard would it be to switch over to a regular water pump to see?

 

[DVADER]

May have to go there, just wanted to see if anyone had a similar problem. Thanks

 

[Berman]

I bet it's that electric water pump.. I don't have a front mount or anything, but my t-type runs at **160** constantly, idling through traffic with the air on max. I have stock fans, and a new stock radiator.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

ELEC PUMP??

I doubt it's because the water is going thru too fast.. The elec pump runs at a constant speed and the h2o flow is most likely too low. The engine is creating less heat idling, but the rad heat rejection rate is also CONSIDERABLY less due to the lack of fresh air that you get when at hwy speeds, thus the temp drop when on the hwy.
There are several things you can do to help.
1. Block off the sides of the rad at the core support to force all air thru the rad, and not allow it to go out past the headlite buckets.
2. Block the bottom of the I/C so the air cannot go behind the I/C and create turbulent flow between the I/C and the rad.
3. Seal the fan shroud to the rad core, being sure as much of the core as possible is covered.
4. Remove all of the rear hood seal but the heater inlet area. This allows ALOT of trapped hot air out at the base of the WS.
5. Add distilled h2o and RMI-25. [Good for 10* on my tow vehicle]
6. DITCH the elec pump!! They say they are for street use?? Doubt that.

Check for leaking head gaskets!!

My GN has a CAS rad, 160* stat, stock fan, stock pump,no added shrouding, and runs within 3-5* of the stat, even after a 130 mph WOT blast.

The too quick to cool deal is usually seen when the stat is out and there's no control of flow.

HTH,

 

[DVADER]

Thanks for the post Chuck. All good ideas and most of which I have covered on the car. I think I will try a stock pump. What is the best way to check for head gasket problems? There is no oil in the water or water in the oil. I have not done a leak down. Thanks

 

[Lee Thompson]

Check for bad headgasket

With car warmed up, remove coolant recovery cap, letting car idle, look into the far corner of tank and if you have bubbles coming up, NOT GOOD!!!

 

[CaPPY]

After messing around under the hood, I somehow reversed the connectors on one of the fans. (it was pushing instead of pulling) I couldn't figure out why, all of the sudden, the car was running 30 degrees higher.

Check both of the connectors and make sure BOTH of the fans are PULLING! I hope that's it.