oil

what is best oil for buick turbo

  • what oil

    Votes: 10 83.3%
  • whats better

    Votes: 2 16.7%

  • Total voters
    12
I would not run synthetic in a motor with a flat Tappet .cam if you have a roller you would be ok IMO the shop I work at trestoring cars have had cam failure on 3 different cars a gto mustang and Chevy camero the 2 things in common were flat Tappet and synthetic oil I to had lost a cam in my Buick it was explained to me the synthetic was to slick not allowing the lifter to spin correctly on the cam causing it to build heat and wipe the lobe I have no scientific evidence to prove anything I've said but over the five years this happened and switching to convention oil with additive we've had no more problems
 
Not trying to start a war I was just giving real live experience.and it may or may not have been a wild Coincidence I don't know but have not had any problem since would it be worth taking a chance?
 
I have no dog in this fight,I use what I use because it's what I like .

It's just that there are at least 75 very informative/entertaining threads about oil on here already (a quick search would have shown that) and in the end, they all say the same thing - it's a matter of personal preference.
 
Mobil 1 for 175000 miles. Pulled engine apart...in perfect condition. In the latter years of that car I started adding zddp.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 
Mobil 1 for 175000 miles. Pulled engine apart...in perfect condition. In the latter years of that car I started adding zddp.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
Indeed, same experience here .. Interesting questionair at the top, I chose what oil.
 
Either kind, if you let the car sit for a week the oil will drain out of the lifters and the motor will sound like it's dyin' for a second when you start it.

I can't resist. :p The statement about lifters not rotating isn't logical. If they don't rotate because synthetic is too slick, then what heat buildup could there be? Heat comes from friction! But you're saying it's because there isn't enough friction!

Cam makers tell you to use conventional during cam break-in because the extra friction (=heat) breaks a surface and allows the lobes to wear for proper break-in.
 
ImageUploadedByTurboBuick1377730817.051570.jpg
 
I'm in the process of buying a WE-4. This is my first "hot" car and I need all the advice I can get. Thanks for this thread as I was searching for information about oil. The search feature gave me a bunch of garbage.
 
I'm in the process of buying a WE-4. This is my first "hot" car and I need all the advice I can get. Thanks for this thread as I was searching for information about oil. The search feature gave me a bunch of garbage.

The search feature using "best oil", or something to that affect, came up with nothing but garbage for you, huh?

And this particular thread was somehow "advice rich" for you?????

Good luck with your first 'hot" car...........:eek:
 
can you buy zddp at parts store? called parts store said they had zmax is that the same? the sun viser said use sf oil I could not find any oil comp with that.
 
Mine has some brand synthetic and a Fram filter now from the PO, but I plan to run Valvoline 10w-40 and zddp with a Purolator filter. You should be able to find zddp additive at Advance Auto(yellow bottle IIRC)
 
Or you can use an oil with molybdenum. Moly serves the same function but won't harm your catalytic converter (if you have one).

(How did I get sucked into this thread? Am I intellectually vain?)
 
Do people still use rotella? Just curious


But I've started using Quaker state red bottom with zinc I like it but I change my oil every 2500 anyways so it's never really dirty


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