Oil Sender

[Jack Russo]

I bought the dual gauge water temp and oil pressure gauges from Kirban. Was wondering if it is worth getting the T valve for the oil sender unit, or just screwing the one that came from Kirban and removing the stock sending unit. I'm pretty sure its just for the dash light.
I'm planning on removing the temperature sender also, which is for the dash light. Unless there is a better spot?
So what would you do for the sender?

I already had a Scanmaster so i dont know why I bought the Water Temp gauge. But I guess I like spending money on toys for the GN lol. I guess 2 temp gauges are better than none?

 

[Jack Russo]

No comments?

 

[GNONYX]

Everyone has their own favor of gauges and it's placement.
you still haven't mention on where are these gauges going to be display?
It's true of not needing a water gauge since you already have the ScanMaster, but you should have a least a vac/boost gauge, and also the oil pressure gauge. I didn't remove the factory oil pressure switch, and I did put a "T" in place as you can see in photo.
My 87' T-Top has the triple gauge pods: oil pressure, vac/boost, and air/fuel wideband.
I also placed the ScanMaster above the rear view mirror.
(Future in replacing red to green LED lights)
Maybe you can ask other members of posting their gauges and location so you can have some ideas for yourself.

 

[Jack Russo]

Thanks for your response!
I already have an A pillar turbo boost gauge, I bought this combo pack from Kirban that had oil press and water temp gauges and senders, plus with double holder that goes in the space under the radio in the radio pod. I was planning on putting them there. Right now my scanmaster is there, I like your spot over the rear view, looks like a radar detector
As regards to the T, did you get that from a plumbing supply? if so what size threads are on there?
For now do you think it would be a bad idea to remove the stock switch and plug in the oil sender?
Car looks real nice with all the green lights

 

[earlbrown]

The stock oil pressure switch is for the dash light and a backup for the fuel pump relay. If you remove it and the relay flakes out the car won't have a running fuel pump.

 

[Jack Russo]

Better off keeping the old switch and adding the T. Can I pick up at my plumbing supply shop? If so any ideas on the size?

 

[GNONYX]

I believe it's a brass 1/4" "T" pipe thread and I got my from Home Depot in the plumbing section. If you have your oil pressure switch, take it with you and see if pressure switch threads into the T brass fitting. You might to get a 3" brass pipe to extent as I did, or you can leave it close to the factory oil pressure switch.
As you can see in the photo I already had a brass 45*elbow to which I also installed on to "T" fitting. You are going to need a close nipple to connect both "T" together.
I just recently changed the oil pressure switch from the end of the brass pipe to the top of the "T" fitting. At the end of the brass pipe fitting is a black hose which is for the oil accumulator system.
This set up allows to prevent the from dry start.
Once you turn the key to start position, (do not start the engine), the oil accumulator solenoid valve opens with 60* of oil pressure into the engine. After a 30 sec.or so, I have oil pressure present on the oil pressure gauge.

 

[Jack Russo]

Great info! Thanks Onyx this is exactly the info that I was hoping to get! Pictures really helped too, I'm heading to the plumbing supply tomorrow. Seems like you used teflon tape. I read somewhere not to use teflon tape on sensors because it acts as a ground, but i always doubted that. I'll trust your route. Thanks!
I owe you one!

 

[earlbrown]

if the sensor is a single wire unit that outputs a ground, then yes, it has to be grounded to it's mount.

If the sender is multi wire and handed everything it needs, you can use tape.

 

[GNONYX]

I knew I was going to add multi gauges and future stuffs, so I ran 8 #16ga wire harness from the oil pressure switch area to the pillar pod interior. Even though the oil pressure is a single terminal and I wanted to make sure the oil pressure switch wasn't going to leak at the threaded end. I added a clamp to secure the ground wire around the oil pressure switch, so far no problem.

 

[Jack Russo]

Thanks for all the info guys! i bought the Tee today from my plumbing supply store. Hopefully it doesnt rain tomorrow and I will install it. Picture were really helpful also Onyx. Thanks again. I owe u guys a beer.

 

[Jack Russo]

I am about to put the oil sender in with the Tee, it looks like it will hit the lower radiator hose, does it get close?
Another different question, my gauges have lights, should i just tap into the the fuse box in the spot that says Inst Lps to get the power? that is my plan.
Thanks again for all the great info.

 

[GNONYX]

If you see my last photo the oil pressure switch is placed between the lower radiator hose and the power steering hose.
I installed an inline fuse holder to the fuse panel mark "IGN" with a male spade connector to which I soldier (or you can crimp it) and then used shrink tubing. This way if you going to upgrade more gauges you can tap into this inline fuse to protect all of the gauges.

 

[GullsGN]

When I installed my oil pressure gauge all I did was remove the plug from the stock tee that is already there with the stock sending unit.

 

[GNONYX]

When I installed my oil pressure gauge all I did was remove the plug from the stock tee that is already there with the stock sending unit.

Factory stock "Tee" didn't come with a plug, the Tee was screw into the block, the other end was for the oil pressure switch, and last one was for the turbo oil feed tube.

 

[GullsGN]

Factory stock "Tee" didn't come with a plug, the Tee was screw into the block, the other end was for the oil pressure switch, and last one was for the turbo oil feed tube.

I would have to disagree. I have owned the car since new and I do all my own work including the gauges. The factory oil sending unit on the side of the block near the oil filter is where I simply removed the square plug that faces forward. I brought that with my new sensor to my local parts store and got a straight brass adapter. I now have a gauge and the original sensor all working nicely. And I can assure you that that tee is 26 years old.

 

[GNONYX]

I would have to disagree. I have owned the car since new and I do all my own work including the gauges. The factory oil sending unit on the side of the block near the oil filter is where I simply removed the square plug that faces forward. I brought that with my new sensor to my local parts store and got a straight brass adapter. I now have a gauge and the original sensor all working nicely. And I can assure you that that tee is 26 years old.

Like I said before in one of the thread I have written, GM has did it again, no two TR are alike.
They put an extra plug on the brass Tee for your oil pressure switch, as they put both of the fender badges upside down.
As I was going to replace the front sway bar bushings, they put a nut and bolt on one side instead of the normal 10mm bolts. (no Photo)
Thanks and enjoy your ride