oil poll
- Thread starter CHANCE
- Start date
Scott89TTA
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
This is a good idea as I too would like to know what the majority prefer but I think you need to provide a better oil list (break it down) since your list is very generic. For example; a lot of people don't like Quaker State but the Quaker State "Q-Racing" is supposed to be very good, Valvoline vs. Valvoline VR1 Racing, etc. There is a big difference so it is hard to vote on a brand vs. brand/type. Make the list brand/type/weight and you will get a better responce. Just needs some tuning 
-Scott
-Scott
Ive ran Castrol Syntec Blend on my GTP with a 90 shot of NOS putting down 338FWHP (un-tuned and its a FWD so it doesnt make too much power before breaking the tires loose) anyways, Ive got 160K miles on it, never ran any other type of oil and everytime I have rebuilt it (do to cracked pistons, broken valves, blow headgaskets, ect) you could still see the crosshatches on the cylinder walls...... even after 160K miles......
Also since I work @ Mercedes-Benz as a Tech, we only run Mobile 1 Synthetic on our cars which require a 10-13K mile oil change interval. Ive taken those engine apart before with anywhere from 40K-120K miles and the cylinder walls still look new! I also run Mobile 1 on my GN becuase its real good oil (and its free from work ) I have yet to take that engine apart but I figure if its good enough for our AMG's, SLR's and Maybach's, its good enough for my GN :biggrin:
But in reality, what I recommend to all my customrs (the ones I do side jobs for) is pick one oil brand (any brand) and change the oil religiously as recommended by the manufacture. Different oils have different additives and if you keep changing brands, you might run into problems (ahwile ago the Penzoil additives would actually break down the additives and the oil in Castrol oil and the engine would not get the proper lubrication causing premature wear) Just my 2 pennies!
Also since I work @ Mercedes-Benz as a Tech, we only run Mobile 1 Synthetic on our cars which require a 10-13K mile oil change interval. Ive taken those engine apart before with anywhere from 40K-120K miles and the cylinder walls still look new! I also run Mobile 1 on my GN becuase its real good oil (and its free from work
) I have yet to take that engine apart but I figure if its good enough for our AMG's, SLR's and Maybach's, its good enough for my GN :biggrin: But in reality, what I recommend to all my customrs (the ones I do side jobs for) is pick one oil brand (any brand) and change the oil religiously as recommended by the manufacture. Different oils have different additives and if you keep changing brands, you might run into problems (ahwile ago the Penzoil additives would actually break down the additives and the oil in Castrol oil and the engine would not get the proper lubrication causing premature wear) Just my 2 pennies!
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
Mobile drive clean NON SYNTHETIC 10w40 all year long with one bottle of EOS
Been that way for a real long time.
BW
Been that way for a real long time.
BW
I'm not sure but do a search on oil changes. I haven't done it yet but there seems to be some little trick you need to do when doing an oil change on these as aposed to a typical car. It maybe listed in the owners manual as well. Just wanted to throw that in so you'll have a heads up. Now if you figure it out, let me since I need to do the same thing
Gary Wells
White turbo Buick trailer park trash
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2002
--------------------------SVORay said:I'm not sure but do a search on oil changes. I haven't done it yet but there seems to be some little trick you need to do when doing an oil change on these as aposed to a typical car. It maybe listed in the owners manual as well. Just wanted to throw that in so you'll have a heads up. Now if you figure it out, let me since I need to do the same thing
Could you be referring to filling the oil filter with as much oil as possible before installation to minimize the chance of oil starvation?
my1stgn said:Ive ran Castrol Syntec Blend on my GTP with a 90 shot of NOS putting down 338FWHP (un-tuned and its a FWD so it doesnt make too much power before breaking the tires loose) anyways, Ive got 160K miles on it, never ran any other type of oil and everytime I have rebuilt it (do to cracked pistons, broken valves, blow headgaskets, ect) you could still see the crosshatches on the cylinder walls...... even after 160K miles......
Also since I work @ Mercedes-Benz as a Tech, we only run Mobile 1 Synthetic on our cars which require a 10-13K mile oil change interval. Ive taken those engine apart before with anywhere from 40K-120K miles and the cylinder walls still look new! I also run Mobile 1 on my GN becuase its real good oil (and its free from work
But in reality, what I recommend to all my customrs (the ones I do side jobs for) is pick one oil brand (any brand) and change the oil religiously as recommended by the manufacture. Different oils have different additives and if you keep changing brands, you might run into problems (ahwile ago the Penzoil additives would actually break down the additives and the oil in Castrol oil and the engine would not get the proper lubrication causing premature wear) Just my 2 pennies!
It's rare I run into another MB Tech on a message board. I'm a former MB Tech and 2001 ELITE(Orlando UTI facility) Graduate and now own a repair business. I have actually been switching my MB, BMW & Audi customers to the Amsoil European formula because of those long change intervals and it's been holding up great between changes and not kicking of the sensative oil quality sensors. I recently put it in my GN and it killed a noisy lifter in a 3100 mile engine I dropped in last October. I ran Mobil 1 for years in a 10 second 99 GT street/strip car I had for years, but now I'm an Amsoil retailer and run it in all of my cars and customers cars without any problems so far.
Marc87GN said:
Sweet! I graduated in 04 (Rancho Cucamunga Campus) and been working there for almost 2 years now. Also did 8 years in the Corps so thats where I got most of my "hands on" training to work on cars. Never used Amsoil before, usually we just use Seafoam to take care of noisy lifters but I might have to give that Amsoil a try!
L O F
I've used castrol 10w30 since new, and before in other and all cars, never had an oil related problem. Just keep the oil changed, that's all there is to it. An oil change is less than a tank of gas, even if you go to the DEALER.
Just switched to the Mobil 1 in the T two years ago, like ten extra horses
I've used castrol 10w30 since new, and before in other and all cars, never had an oil related problem. Just keep the oil changed, that's all there is to it. An oil change is less than a tank of gas, even if you go to the DEALER.
Just switched to the Mobil 1 in the T two years ago, like ten extra horses
Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
Well im in the oil business, and i read oil reports from a lot of sources. and actually, quaker state comes in last in a lot of areas. amsoil has always come in top place, with mobil 1 a close second. always run a good oil and a good filer. wix or mobil 1, and change it every 3000 miles. if you value your engine. yea, amsoil lasts a loong time, but why take a chance. just change er every 3000 and youll never have a problem. remember, that our engines naturally run hotter, and that our oil goes thru a turbo too...
always run a good oil and a good filer. wix or mobil 1, and change it every 3000 miles. if you value your engine. yea, amsoil lasts a loong time, but why take a chance. just change er every 3000 and youll never have a problem. remember, that our engines naturally run hotter, and that our oil goes thru a turbo too...my1stgn said:Sweet! I graduated in 04 (Rancho Cucamunga Campus) and been working there for almost 2 years now. Also did 8 years in the Corps so thats where I got most of my "hands on" training to work on cars. Never used Amsoil before, usually we just use Seafoam to take care of noisy lifters but I might have to give that Amsoil a try!
That's awesome. I miss it sometimes because the cars are unbelievable and I worked with a cool bunch of guys. I'm sure your training before helped alot while in the ELITE program because it's no joke. Good luck with MB man. It's a great job and I made sure I left on good terms so I always have a resource and a place to go back to if necessary.
I've been using mobil-1 10w30 full synthetic for many years now on all my cars even on the buick. Now that the motor has been rebuilt, I was told to use a non-synthetic stright 30w. Is this right? I was also told that synthetic oil makes seals leak easier. Any of this true?
It's not what you want to break a motor in with and you really don't want to use it on a well broken in motor either.
Things has changed a bit but I'm not sure how much. Used to, your rings wouldn't seat using a synthetic oil...so you waited until your first oil change to switch to synthetic oil. That way your rings could have a chance to seat right. Now days they hone the block in a way that it doesn't effect this process of the rings seating. That is how a lot of new motors come stock with synthetic oils. Now as for me, I would probaly still break it in with something non systhetic but thats is just me. And I would probaly look into some EOS if I was using a Falt tappit cam. I'm not sure if you can use that stuff to break a cam in with...it's to late to remember lol
As for leaksy seals...Synthetic is a much smaller partical oil than typical oil. A well used motor probaly has small leaks in it already but conventional oil is to thick to leak. A synthetic oil is thinner and will probaly leak out. I'm not sure when is the cut off on what is to worn or not worn enough. I've heard don't swtich to synthetic after the car has 30k+ on it. But who knows, I usualy want run it in something thats burning oil and or has something like 100k on it but again, thats just me. I've switched to M1 with around 20k on the ODs of both my truck and the wife's Tahoe. Last year we put 40k ( one year only) on the Tahoe and never had an issue with it. The Harley has about 25k since I switched with zero issues. I'm not sure on the Buick but for now I'm going to run Castrol GTX.
Things has changed a bit but I'm not sure how much. Used to, your rings wouldn't seat using a synthetic oil...so you waited until your first oil change to switch to synthetic oil. That way your rings could have a chance to seat right. Now days they hone the block in a way that it doesn't effect this process of the rings seating. That is how a lot of new motors come stock with synthetic oils. Now as for me, I would probaly still break it in with something non systhetic but thats is just me. And I would probaly look into some EOS if I was using a Falt tappit cam. I'm not sure if you can use that stuff to break a cam in with...it's to late to remember lol
As for leaksy seals...Synthetic is a much smaller partical oil than typical oil. A well used motor probaly has small leaks in it already but conventional oil is to thick to leak. A synthetic oil is thinner and will probaly leak out. I'm not sure when is the cut off on what is to worn or not worn enough. I've heard don't swtich to synthetic after the car has 30k+ on it. But who knows, I usualy want run it in something thats burning oil and or has something like 100k on it but again, thats just me. I've switched to M1 with around 20k on the ODs of both my truck and the wife's Tahoe. Last year we put 40k ( one year only) on the Tahoe and never had an issue with it. The Harley has about 25k since I switched with zero issues. I'm not sure on the Buick but for now I'm going to run Castrol GTX.
Specifically which Mobil 1 are you using?441120 said:I've used castrol 10w30 since new, and before in other and all cars, never had an oil related problem. Just keep the oil changed, that's all there is to it. An oil change is less than a tank of gas, even if you go to the DEALER.
Just switched to the Mobil 1 in the T two years ago, like ten extra horses
