Now I found oil in the headers after taking off Turbo!

[robmerrill]

Hi,

First I thought I blew a head gasket but no oil in antifreeze and no antifreeze in oil, clean spark plugs, compression test good (140 psi), car starts and idles well but lots of white smoke. RAZOR thinks it the turbo.

I took the turbo off and this is what I found. I think the leak is coming from the engine because I found oil in the passenger side header. The oil looks milky. Did I crack a cylinder or head? Still no oil in antifreeze, antifreeze in oil, spark plugs clean, cars starts and idles well (besides white smoke). No oil in intercooler. And there is some up/down play on shaft.

Pic # 3707 is the outlet of turbo (goes out to exhaust).

Pic # 3705 is the inlet of turbo (comes from air cleaner).

Outlet to intercoler

Please help I think I am in trouble,

Rob

 

[robmerrill]

Here are pics if the exhaust and headers. Oil in both. More oil in header. No oil leaks from engine block, head gasket or outside the headers.

One oil leak from a connection three feet in front of the catalytic converter and one small leak from a connection to the catalytic converter. No leaks in back of the catalytic converter.

Pic# 3712 is out to the exhaust.

Pic # 3715 is the header.

Pic # 3714 is the outlet oil to engine.

Rob

 

[Razor]

Your turbo is trashed. Look at the fins.

You need a new turbo and the oil comes out from the shaft bearings letting go.

You can milk it for all its worth if you want. Pull out the credit card and order yourself a turbo. It will cost as much as repairing yours especially with both damaged wheels.

Been there.. done that.. my TTA Crystal ball is dead on today

 

[robmerrill]

Thanks RAZOR again for your input. I know you said t was the turbo and I believe you.

But you don't think that there is any oil leak from the engine just from the turbo? I just want to make sure because once I get a new turbo or rebuild this one I just didn't want the same thing happening. Anything else I should look for in case there is any engine damage?

Also you don't think I should rebuild this turbo? That I should just get a new one? Will it cost more then $200-300 to fix? I just want the orignal stock turbo put back on. Should I just buy a used rebuild stock turbo or rebuild this one? Money is tight and my wifes a B$T$H about spending money on this car. $300 is max I can spend.

Also how do I get the oil out of the header? Just turn the car on now I let it shoot out? Clean it with a rag? Take off header?

What about the Cat. Converter and rest of the exhaust? Is it total shot with oil? Or do I just put new turbo one and let the oil burn off?

I am getting a new O2 sensor because the old one had oil on it.

Sorry for all the questions,

Rob

 

[Razor]

Oil is just from turbo. Wipe up what you can see, the rest will burn off by itself.

I suggest you buy a used stock turbo and take your chances if you dont have the $$$. Nobody will rebuild it for that since it has damaged wheels and contact on the case. meaning its a door stop at the moment.

Go to the parts wanted section and post up need a stock turbo. The GN turbo is the same.

Your catalytic is probably coaked up as well. This has been an issue for some time, your dealing with it way after the fact. And the consequences like oil in the cat.

You can tell a turbo's condition by shaft play(meaning movement of the shaft up-down and in-out. As there should be very little shaft play) Yours will be a nice bad reference.

Contact precision turbo and ask for repairs.. tell them you have a stock GN turbo and the wheels have damage how much $$$ to rebuild it, that will clarify costs.

 

[robmerrill]

Thanks for feedback. This just happen last week and I only drove the car a 1\4 mile home and only started it up once after the fact for a few minutes.

The shaft seems to have a little more play up and down then I first thought.

Thanks again and I will keep you posted. I will also check the parts section.

Rob

 

[Sweet6]

If you do not want to spend a lot of money your best bet is to put a post in the parts wanted section "Looking for a good stock turbo" Fixing yours will cost a lot of money. Or you can find used upgraded turbos for $500 or so. Like a 49,60,32, etc.

 

[GNBRETT]

Holy bent, chipped, twisted turbo blade Kinda looks like a new billet blade now with the crazy angles

 

[Quiky One]

I gave away my stock turbo to someone on the board. It was collecting dust. I am sure someone else has one to give away.

Jason

 

[87granny]

That looks like the stocker i took off 3 months ago but not the amount of smoke you described that thing is fubar look in the for sale section like Razor said you may find a stocker for cheap or someone upgrading from a 44 or a 49 that isn't too expensive i ended up buying a ta49 from a guy for like 400

 

[robmerrill]

"milky Oil"

Hi Razor and everyone,

I just wanted the say thanks for all of your input. I have just one more question to ask if you don't mind. One of the PICS of the turbo charger and the header shows some oil in it. That oil is milky which I think mean some water has mixed with it.

I had emailed John from Limit Engineering, Inc. and he states ""Milky" oil is the first sign that water has leaked into the crankcase. The water pressure is higher than crankcase pressure so that is why you are not seeing oil in the coolant. When water gets into the oil the turbocharger is usually the first thing to fail (water is a piss-poor lubricant!)."

I trust all your experience and judgement but do you agree with him? Do I have other engine problems? Should I get a mechanic to fix my engine before I put the new turbo on or is everything OK and I should just get a new turbo.

Rob

 

[Razor]

Your "milking" this for all its worth.

You need to change the turbo and be done with it.

Pull out the dipstick.. if the oil level is normal, then you dont have any worries. If its up a quart, then you have an issue.

Condensation is normal, and goes away after you fire it up. And it will smoke for quite a while after you put the new turbo on. From all the oil..

 

[GO_G8RZ]

One way you can tell if there is a leak of coolant into the oil (or oil in the coolant) is to run a hydrocarbon test on the coolant. Even if the water is under higher pressure and leaks into the oil, hydrocarbon gases from the oil WILL get into the coolant and you can check that with a tester. I had a mechanic check this on my TTA a while ago and it was cheap (came out clean BTW). You may even be able to buy a HC tester off-the-shelf from a parts store.

 

[Pronto]

You could just change your oil as well. You can get a good look at it that way.