A question for you ignition GURUs. I know this is not a Turbo Car but still is a Buick. A no spark condition and test several things so far. This car was towed to my house because it died suddenly, long story. Now, tried another type2 coil/module,(junk yard part) still no spark, no engine codes, just the 12 code? At the module wire connector, the pink wire gets battery volts during cranking, 12v input. I'm replacing the crank sensor as it both fires the coils and references #1 cylinder position, dual interrupter rings on balancer. The CS, balancer, module was replaced some time ago for the same problem. The balancer isn't damaged, CS doesn't look like any damage to it either. I was told at this point either the module/coil or CS are the culprit. So I'm changing both again. I need to run this car to better evaluate the rest of the car, to keep or not. Any Thoughts? Thanks. Gene
No Start on a Buick 3300 Engine - 89 Century
- Thread starter HP Man
- Start date
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
I ran into the same type issue with a 1990 3800.
The car would just die and there was no spark.
Replaced crank sensor, still intermittent dying on the busy Houston Highway, no spark! Not heat related.
Dropped it off at a buddy's shop. Of course, it acts fine for the whole week at the shop.
Took it home, and you guessed it . . . . it died.
Finally figured it out . . . wiring at the crank sensor and ign module.
The crappy factory wires had the insulation literally coming apart when you rubbed them, about 3/4 inch from the connectors, creating a short.
Finally, after 4 months, figured out it was a wiring problem at the module.
Now it runs fine, until this weekend . . . BAD mechanical knock sound when put in gear. But that will be whole other story.
Hope this helps. :wink:
The car would just die and there was no spark.
Replaced crank sensor, still intermittent dying on the busy Houston Highway, no spark! Not heat related.
Dropped it off at a buddy's shop. Of course, it acts fine for the whole week at the shop.
Took it home, and you guessed it . . . . it died.
Finally figured it out . . . wiring at the crank sensor and ign module.
The crappy factory wires had the insulation literally coming apart when you rubbed them, about 3/4 inch from the connectors, creating a short.
Finally, after 4 months, figured out it was a wiring problem at the module.
Now it runs fine, until this weekend . . . BAD mechanical knock sound
when put in gear. But that will be whole other story. Hope this helps. :wink:
TURBOTWIN2
ASE CMAT L1
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2005
Agree with Jeryl, check the wiring harness going to the crank sensor, peel back the wire cover and look at the wiring as far back as you can.
The harness is underneath the car. A lot of them would have oil leaks soaking the wires and it's underneath getting road crap and dirt on it. Recipe for bad things on a 20 year old car.
The harness is underneath the car. A lot of them would have oil leaks soaking the wires and it's underneath getting road crap and dirt on it. Recipe for bad things on a 20 year old car.
KL Mallender
Certified Dumb****
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2007
Take out the 6 screws holding coil pack to module, see if the potting material has turned into "Goo", age and contamination exposes the circutry to shorting/open circuts, and its getting very common nowadays(age). good luck.
Kevin.
Kevin.
Since its intermittent and you have verified fuel pressure im going with the module or CS as being the problem. If you can duplicate the problem again after you have gone through the type II ignition no start flow chart try spraying the CS with brake parts cleaner and see if it restarts.
