Well, my son and I have been working on the 80 Sport Coupe and it seemed to be getting hard to start. I was leaning towards a spark problem because I tried spraying some starting fluid into the carb and no go either. So I replaced the plugs, wires, cap, coil and rotor cause they were really old anyway. Still nothing. So I then replaced the ignition module and capacitor thingy - whatever it is. Still nothing. I checked to ensure we have power at the distributor and going to the ignition module. Good. So we broke open the manual and did some trouble shooting steps. Checked #2 cylinder for spark by putting the wire on a grounded spark plug. Nothing. We then checked the connections to and at the electronic spark control box. Good. We then checked for power on the right terminals and ensured no shorts in the harness. Good. I then shorted the green and black wires coming out of the distributor - which I assume bypasses the ESC. Nothing. I checked the connections going to the ignition module and they seemed good. And I understand I need a tool to check the ignition module? So now I'm at a loss. I've replaced every component, and unless I got a bad ignition module, or coil - and I really don't want to just start re-replacing parts. Any suggestions?
No spark...can't figure it out...
- Thread starter Justa6MB
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2 possibles here. One is fairly common in the generation of cars you're working on. Turn the key on and jump the starter. Inside the ignition switch is 2 sets of contacts. 1 is for starting and the other is for running. If the start contacts are messed up it can do the same thing. The second possible is the pick up coil inside the distributor. The wires going into it can break and so you don't get a full signal for the module to fire.
Ok thanks, that is good stuff. So we went out and I put a test light on the wire going to the ignition module. There was power with the key on, and I had my son crank the engine and there was still power. So would I be correct to assume the ignition switch is good? So moving on to the pick up coil at the base of the distributor? Is there any way to test that? Or is it a replacement situation? Looks like the distributor needs to be pulled to change it or test the wires?
To test the pick up you can do it but you'll need an analog multi-meter. Put it on AC volts and you'll need to disconnect the cap and rotor so no power will be involved. When you crank the engine the points on the pickup will produce a very small voltage and you may not pick it up if the meter isn't able to measure very low out put. The pick up is usually cheap so it might be easier to just replace it since it may be the original one.
Well just getting back to this and ordered a pick up from RockAuto. It had a picture that seemed to match but turns out it was out of stock. However they have this one but no picture:
GUARANTEED PARTS Part # EL335 [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 3 Remaining)
Pick-Up 3 ENG CODE,SEDAN, COUPE - w/TURBO - CALIF, HIGH ALTITUDE
Does that sound right?
GUARANTEED PARTS Part # EL335 [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 3 Remaining)
Pick-Up 3 ENG CODE,SEDAN, COUPE - w/TURBO - CALIF, HIGH ALTITUDEDoes that sound right?
Well we're back at it. I did test for power and ground at the distributor and both were there. So not being confident in getting the right pickup coil, and thinking I did find the correct complete distributor - I bought it. However, screwed again 
It came and appears to be for a non turbo??? as it doesn't have the ESC connection. So we are looking for options to try. The pickup coil has 2 wires, but a different connector. So I thought I could just swap connectors, but they are also different colors? Any ideas?
It came and appears to be for a non turbo??? as it doesn't have the ESC connection. So we are looking for options to try. The pickup coil has 2 wires, but a different connector. So I thought I could just swap connectors, but they are also different colors? Any ideas?dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2008
you need a complete turbo ESC dizzy and box? i have the matching pair
So pick up coil changed and still nothing I am getting really pissed off at this... My son was talking about a small block Chevy last night! "Ground wires in the harness not grounded?? happened to me once" Which harness are you referring to here? I have ground on the black wire in the 3 wire harness?
I am getting really pissed off at this... My son was talking about a small block Chevy last night! "Ground wires in the harness not grounded?? happened to me once" Which harness are you referring to here? I have ground on the black wire in the 3 wire harness?Could this be the problem? I hooked up power to the distributor on the bench and couldn't get spark. So I saw a video where a guy used a soldering iron to trigger the pick up coil somehow. So I did that and I could hear arcing in the cap. So I pulled the coil and saw it was cracked on the end. Would that cause arcing?
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I got your message about an hour ago. AT&T is the best out here but that doesn't mean a whole lot sometimes.
There are only 4 things that make a spark on that system. 12 volt power, ignition module, pick up coil, and of course the coil. If it's sparking off the side from a crack then the coil needs to be replaced. The insulating material can get damaged from heat and age.
AT&T is the best out here but that doesn't mean a whole lot sometimes.There are only 4 things that make a spark on that system. 12 volt power, ignition module, pick up coil, and of course the coil. If it's sparking off the side from a crack then the coil needs to be replaced. The insulating material can get damaged from heat and age.
It's the same one as all of the coil on cap HEI coils. There were some external coil models in the mid 70's and if you want to go external get a cap for a 75-76 chevy truck with an inline 6 along with the coil. You'll need to extend the wires and figure out where you want to mount it, as well as add a coil wire, but it works as good or better than the coil on cap set up.
