No lights?

[carryon525]

I've checked All fuses and checked grounds. I have no headlights, tai lights, all dash lights, radio, dome, courtesy, and door locks. Power windows work, psi and boost works, brake lights work, all aftermarket gauges work. I have not checked headlight switch or dimmer but I have ordered a headlight switch. Are those two items the next things to look at?

 

[bpman1234]

Have you tried messing with the switch plugging unplugging ?

 

[carryon525]

Have you tried messing with the switch plugging unplugging ?

Plugging and unplugging??

 

[carryon525]

Plugging and unplugging??

Pulled out and put back in the ones that are already there

 

[bpman1234]

Yup.

 

[carryon525]

Yup.

I will say the dimmer switch appears a factory piece as it say AC delco and I know those are hard to come by

 

[bpman1234]

Did you check to see if you were getting power to the fuses with a test light or to the switch ?

 

[carryon525]

Did you check to see if you were getting power to the fuses with a test light or to the switch ?

Not very good with test light but I did use the fuse tester and all of them lit up and I changed a few for the heck of it. No I have not tested the switch but my thought are exactly what you asked me. Just because my fuses look good and the tester lite up doesn't mean I'm actually getting power correct?? If the big brown wire on the switches has no power where do I look then? If it does have power then wouldn't that tell me the switches are not transferring the power to the fuse box therefore components won't work??

 

[bpman1234]

Sometimes that dimer switch goes bad the round one if I remember correctly the power goes in one and out the other

 

[bpman1234]

Did you do any work on the car before this happened

 

[carryon525]

Did you do any work on the car before this happened

No just took off the valve covers to powder coat. Is there any parts stores that still carry the dimmer? I've tried oreileys and auto zone

 

[carryon525]

Wait! Question I was at the auto parts store the other day and remembered that my inner light on passenger side was fogged so I wanted to replaced both if they were low beans. I could not remember if they were high beams or low beams so I got one high beam light because I rarely use high beams but are the inner lights low beams or high??? If I put a high beam in a low beam spot and plugged it in would that short out the entire system????

 

[bpman1234]

Don't think so but I would go back and check the wires maybe you pulled something off double check

 

[carryon525]

What's frustrating is all lights were working great after changing some bulbs not even five minutes before then a started car still everything worked fine radio running then I plugged in my phone to the CD player all good flipped switch on the run parking lights while cruising put in reverses the lights flickered two or three times and radio off and on at the same time then lost everything including door lock power. To recap only light working are psi, turbo, all aftermarket stuff, and windows

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Fusable links checked?

 

[carryon525]

Fusable links checked?

All were relocated near battery and are good now I just went to car to glance again and noticed something. This picture is near the rear of driver valve cover and I can't see if any wires are connected to it? It looks like a ground? What is this for

 

[bpman1234]

There's ground wires on the fender both sides for the lights

 

[carryon525]

There's ground wires on the fender both sides for the lights

Checked them both tight and clean. This looks like there are no wires connected and it looks like a ground? What is it? Near driver valve cover firewall.

 

[carryon525]

Update so far
I finally got a test light and downloaded the chassis manual for our cars from someone off our site. I'm not very good with electrical but if I'm reading this right the red ire from a fuse link should be hot and goes to fuse box cig fuse which then gives power to the light switch. I just bought a new switch today and plugged it in with nothing so I took it out and put the test light in all the light witch holes both with ignition on and off with no luck. Then I went and took out the good fuse cig and stuck test light in that fuse socket and got nothing even with car ignition on. So if I did this correct does this mean there is no power getting to fuse right?? Also remember I did have the fusable links transferred near the battery which I put the test light on those wires near the battery and they all light up. So does this mean somewhere between the new location of links to where the red wire enters the cab there is a short??? If so where is the entry of those wires. I thought I saw them go around to the drivers fender side into some relay looking thing? If that's the case which of those relay things needs to be checked or replaced?? Here is the picture I'm looking at.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Update so far
I finally got a test light and downloaded the chassis manual for our cars from someone off our site. I'm not very good with electrical but if I'm reading this right the red ire from a fuse link should be hot and goes to fuse box cig fuse which then gives power to the light switch. I just bought a new switch today and plugged it in with nothing so I took it out and put the test light in all the light witch holes both with ignition on and off with no luck. Then I went and took out the good fuse cig and stuck test light in that fuse socket and got nothing even with car ignition on. So if I did this correct does this mean there is no power getting to fuse right?? Also remember I did have the fusable links transferred near the battery which I put the test light on those wires near the battery and they all light up. So does this mean somewhere between the new location of links to where the red wire enters the cab there is a short??? If so where is the entry of those wires. I thought I saw them go around to the drivers fender side into some relay looking thing? If that's the case which of those relay things needs to be checked or replaced?? Here is the picture I'm looking at.

A couple things:
1. That schematic is not the correct one. You need one for VIN7.
2. If you are checking the fusable links at the batt end, you would get a "good" reading. It's the "tube" that's in the wire, that melts and disconnects. Looking at them is not the way to test them. Those links are originally on the main starter stud.
The relays on the dr fender are the fan relays. Low, hi, and delay. There should be 1 fusable/red wire feeding them. It's hot all the time.

Always "check" your test light, before use. 1 end on batt grnd, probe on +.