No lights?

[bpman1234]

That's why I asked if you were getting power to the fuse .if no power then fusible link at starter

 

[carryon525]

A couple things:
1. That schematic is not the correct one. You need one for VIN7.
2. If you are checking the fusable links at the batt end, you would get a "good" reading. It's the "tube" that's in the wire, that melts and disconnects. Looking at them is not the way to test them. Those links are originally on the main starter stud.
The relays on the dr fender are the fan relays. Low, hi, and delay. There should be 1 fusable/red wire feeding them. It's hot all the time.

Always "check" your test light, before use. 1 end on batt grnd, probe on +.

From what I can see in the book I downloaded it has all the VIN's including 7.
I can take a picture later of how my "new links" we're done next to the battery. Basically, they are now a small fuse box with 30 amp fuses on all links. I did confirm that all of the wires to the battery and passed "links" are getting power.
One big thing I have not even checked is behind my aftermarket jvc CD player there is a fuse in the back which I was unaware of which in turn if it blew would that of dropped all of the lights I described due to the orange wire that seems to run to so many spots? Also, the dimmer switch wires are connected to the radio/cd player. I was informed that I can cut those wires because the CD player lights up regardless due to ignition power. Basically it lights itself with the ignition if that makes sense? So if the fuse behind radio blew and it's connected to the important dimmer that seem to control many things does this sound like a big possibility. I will be checking this afternoon if I can find the "key" to pull out the CD player or figure out how to pull out the radio without the key.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

From what I can see in the book I downloaded it has all the VIN's including 7

Probably right. The one you posted IS NOT the correct one. Why refer to it, when you have the correct one?
All the screwed up/ modified wiring is slowly being posted, causing a lot of back and forth, I'm not trying to be difficult, but bits and pieces being added, is causing you, and others, "heartburn". I'd suggest you find someone that can t/s what you have, as it's certainly not VIN 7 wiring...

 

[bpman1234]

Pull the whole radio Custer out with the radio you will be able to get to that wire

 

[bpman1234]

Also three wires go to power orange red yellow .red power ignition fused orange also power fused 12 v for allumation yellow for memory it's been a while sine I messed with radioes so the yellow and orange might go vise verve for memory I think I always went to lighter for power and for lights and power went to ignition I never hooked it up to the cars dimmer cause of over load .just something to look at cause even when your hooking up lights for gauges they tell you not to hook it up to the dimmer make sure you get you power from the switch side if I remember correctly .

 

[carryon525]

Probably right. The one you posted IS NOT the correct one. Why refer to it, when you have the correct one?
All the screwed up/ modified wiring is slowly being posted, causing a lot of back and forth, I'm not trying to be difficult, but bits and pieces being added, is causing you, and others, "heartburn". I'd suggest you find someone that can t/s what you have, as it's certainly not VIN 7 wiring...

Problem solved finally and right in front of my face! The connectors that were used to relocate the fusible links apparently did not clamp and the wires came out causing no power to get to the fuse box! Took off the electrical tap put new connectors clamped properly retaped and all is well!

 

[bpman1234]

Great . Always good to double check .