No Knock Reading?

camino70

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2001
Haven't had the car out in a while. It felt real good so I laid into it a few times. It started to break up in second with about 15lbs, so I get out of it and look down, but there is no knock reading and the O2's are high 700's. I tapped the knock sensor in park with the rpms around 1700 and get no reading on the scanmaster. I tested the continuity from the knock sensor to the ESC and it is fine, but I don't know what to look for from there. I am heading to a friends to swap some parts, but not sure what to try. Any ideas are appreciated!
Thanks,
Ron
 
Possible that the car wasnt detonating, maybe just breaking up?

Id start with the maf, then go from that to the coil pack and ignition module.

If the problem gets worse the more you drive it, then those 2 items would be my first guess.

Been seeing alot of this issue here in town lately, not sure if its the change in weather or not.

PS, the ESC goes straight to the computer, my guess is that your not getting knock.. Check those 2 items and get back here and let us know
HTH
BW
 
Thanks for the quick reply,
I never made it to swap parts, it ran like crap and I didn't think I would make it. When I opened the hood I noticed the transition hose from the turbo to the intercooler wasn't on all the way. I am not sure how I had it on there before, because I can't seem to get it on both the turbo and intercooler with enough meat left over to tighten it well.

Any lines on a transition hose 2" -> 2.5" that is longer then 3"?

I did swap the coil pack and ign. module with one I had, but I am not sure if it is a good one and I am running an LT1 MAF with a translator, so I am going to have to hunt a known good one down to try that too.
Thanks again,
Ron
 
As for the hose to pipe connection, is the pipe too short? PTE does sell the new version of that hot side pipe.
Can you post a picture?
If you think the maf may be bad, just unplug it AND take the uppipe off the throttle body. It should clear up.
BW
 
I tapped the knock sensor in park with the rpms around 1700 and get no reading on the scanmaster.
The knock sensor can and will go bad. I had the same scenario years back and replaced the ESC module first but still no response from the knock sensor. A new sensor cured it.
 
The reducer hose is just a little too short, the turbo goes right to the stock location with no pipe. I seriously don't know how I got the clamps to hold onto anything before... I think I have a lead on a 4" long hose so we will see...
I replaced the knock sensor, happened to have a new delco in the parts box, but tapping didn't get it to show any knock. I didn't take the car out, but...
While idling, it began to run real rich and stutter. I unplugged the MAF and it would die immediately. I tried to get to the cam sensor, but didn't have much luck while it was running to disconnect. I pulled the plugs and put a new set in and it seemed to idle better, but the plugs I pulled were only 200 miles old. I have three coil pack/ign modules, but don't know which one/combo is good. Is O'Reilly's worth a trip to test? Do they only test the ign. mod.?
Thanks for the help!!!
Ron
 
When my car had problems at 15 psi it was the TPS sensor. I'm still having some issues but that fixed one of them. If you have access to a scan tool it might show you which sensor is acting up. Caspers sells a coil pack/ignition module tester which would be a good investment. I bought mine on E-bay, brand new and saved a few bucks.
 
I had all three ign modules tested today and they all tested good at O'Reilly's. The one I was running on the car did not have a gasket between the module and coil pack, not sure why, but what kind of problems could this cause? I have checked the TPS with the key on, but not sure how to really test it...
Thanks again!
Ron
 
I had all three ign modules tested today and they all tested good at O'Reilly's. The one I was running on the car did not have a gasket between the module and coil pack, not sure why, but what kind of problems could this cause? I have checked the TPS with the key on, but not sure how to really test it...
Thanks again!
Ron

My TPS sensor acted fine with key on at idle and at WOT. However, when under load (driving hard) it would drop out when it should have been going up in voltage. My OTC scan tool showed it. You will need a scan tool of some sort or else borrow one. Will save a lot of time and money in changing parts that aren't necessary. Most people like the scanmaster 2.1 but I don't think you can replay too many things on it.
 
I haven't had it out long, but now with the new longer turbo to intercooler hose I am seeing slight knock at WOT. I am guessing all that air the car thought was flowing wasn't getting all the way there.
Thanks,
Ron
 
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