New Turbo Install

[scrobbyd]

Ok guys I just got my PT6262 in the mail today. I would like to know how to run my hoses on new turbo/adjustable wastegate, THDP with internal wastegate, RJC boost controler and do I use my wastegate solenoid? Basically a diagram and some good ideas for a good location for RJC boost controler for a clean looking install. Also do I need a restrictor "Y" or something of this sort, if so where do I purchase one?

Thanks in advance

 

[87geeinn]

1) Install turbo

2) Set adj. wastegate so that you have to pull the arm slightly to get it on the puck arm

3) One hose runs from the port on the turbo to straight end of RJC controller, the other hose goes from the 90* angle of the RJC boost controller to the wastegate port

When set up as stated above, you do not need the stock y-hose assembly or the wastegate solenoid.

Before installing the turbo, it's a good idea to enlarge and port match your wastegate hole with a Dremel tool to the downpipe puck. This will help alleviate any potential boost creep issues. Coat the downpipe puck with lipstick, attach the downpipe to the turbo and close the puck up to the turbo. This will leave a good template of where to remove material and how the puck is sealing to the turbo.

 

[scrobbyd]

Thank you 87geein, that advice is just what I needed. Any good ideas of discreet but convenient mounting locations for RJC boost control?

Thanks again

 

[87geeinn]

You could zip-tie it to the metal loop that's used to pull the motor out. It's just below the TPS sensor. Just make sure you mount it somewhere that it is accessible because you need to remove the line on the 90* fitting in order to make adjustments to the controller to increase/decrease boost.

 

[Audie1]

 

[meanchicken]

When installing the turbo, before you tighten any solid mount points like the header flange and turbo bracket, make sure you first attach the plumbing connections like the turbo oil feed, and oil drain. It will reduce the likelyhood of cross threading any of your plumbing fittings.
Connect your air inlet and down pipe last.
The THDP will feed in easily from the top....you just have to turn and wiggle it a little.

 

[Roc87]

Get studs for the oil drain, rather than using the stock bolts, makes aligning the drain for install very easy. And I have started using some anti-seeze on the downpipe bolts, I stripped two of the four last time I had to take the THDP off.

Audie1, is that an ATR BOV? You have any vacuum hoses hooked to the top part of it? I haven't tried having mine hooked up the way you do, but using the vacuum line that usually goes to the charcoal canister (With check-valve removed) and even with the adjustment screw almost all the way out, it still has turbo "flutter".

 

[turboclif]

Wow ROC87 very impressive with a stock block 11.5 s I building a 109 30vr forgTRW, steel caps and stud kit. Looking at 60lbs injectors and PT 6262 turbo with a accel programable unit. What hp you think I want a ten sec car turned down to 11s.

 

[XLR8]

Don't forget to port the wastgate hole on the turbo before installation.

 

[meanchicken]

Don't forget to port the wastgate hole on the turbo before installation.

buuuut....don't port too much or it won't seal any more...

Normally, porting the WG puck hole is only something you should do if you are experiencing boost creep issues already.

With that new, bigger than stock turbo....boost creep shouldn't really be a problem...right?
For example...my old stock turbo had boost creep issues.
My current TA-61 does not.