REGALTURBO
I Am The Master..Master..
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2003
After just installing your system and working out some bugs you can count me in on one. I`ll be calling you for my order.
New Product--Tester
- Thread starter Razor
- Start date
I think Julio should have a couple of the set up's to loan out.
What do you think?
No on the loaning. My computer system is not setup for doing this. And then the time spent invoicing, tracking, following up, processing the return, fee's for running the credit card deposit transaction, items lost/stolen/missing, etc.. no way. We're a small shop and our manpower is taxed as is. Cost of shipping, labels, CC processing, boxes, etc is a killer per piece.
I have no problem at events like Clark's, BG, Reynolds. local tracks, meets etc using it there.. but once it leaves Florida.. its gone. Unless it gets damaged in shipment or a problem arises with it.
Maybe for winter time when things slow down, then figure costs involved in processing the rental, time unit is out, etc..
Its like a cam sensor tool. You may not always need it.. but when you do, its way easier to perform the functions. And that's a 50.00 item for an LED, battery, and connector.
Thanks for the thought..let it mull for some time. I appreciate the idea tho.
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
Things are moving like Molasses. So far cheapest quote has been 6K for the mold. :frown:
I have like 5 tanks out at different places getting quotes. I need to find a blow-moulder thats hungry
Thanks all on the tester.. I'll do an initial run of 12 next week.
Back to work
Julio,
I had 2 3D Mold making mills delivered today and am going to look at a blow molding machine next week. I will let you know. Only good thing about everyone going out of business around here is that machinery is getting cheap.
Mike
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
Good job Julio!
Is there a breakdown of volume to be expected?
Example;
With the controller on max, turn-on and ramp "as factory", simulator at max, you should expect XX-XX gallons in XX seconds.
Mike,
This is what we are finding out as well.
We just got a few machines at 40% off. NOW is the time to re-invest in US manufacturing.
There is a member on this board who does this molding stuff for a living, with extensive experience!
If he has not signed a non-compete clause, he may chime in.
Would be a GREAT way to shorten the lead-time to market.
Great news to hear Mike.
Jerryl, we cant measure volume.. but can measure pressure with the gauge. What i've been doing is putting these smaller gauges on the same line as my large calibrated gauge and running them up on pressure. I had a gauge yesterday that was off 10 PSI across the board. That one is going back. If you know the pressure, and nozzle size then flow can be calculated. Then we need to know boost in the motor to subtract from that pressure.. what a mess
I think over years based on the pumps I see pressure does come down a little. It has to do with the hardening of the santoprene diaphram. But if your car only needs lets say 120 PSI alky pressure, and the pump instead of max being 250 now is 200.. it still covers the 120 PSI need. If your running the pump at 250 and it goes down to 200 it will be less alky, but that is reason for the twin nozzle anyways as you can increase the volume at a lower pressure which the pump should have no problem handling.
Field data will happen with these testers. I dont know of any other company sticking their necks out for this type of data. Kind of taboo in the field. But hey we deal with results as a by-product of design. And hope to increase an extra layer of security as to the operation of a complex product.
Thanks guys.. back to playing with glycerine and air bubbles
Jerryl, we cant measure volume.. but can measure pressure with the gauge. What i've been doing is putting these smaller gauges on the same line as my large calibrated gauge and running them up on pressure. I had a gauge yesterday that was off 10 PSI across the board. That one is going back. If you know the pressure, and nozzle size then flow can be calculated. Then we need to know boost in the motor to subtract from that pressure.. what a mess
I think over years based on the pumps I see pressure does come down a little. It has to do with the hardening of the santoprene diaphram. But if your car only needs lets say 120 PSI alky pressure, and the pump instead of max being 250 now is 200.. it still covers the 120 PSI need. If your running the pump at 250 and it goes down to 200 it will be less alky, but that is reason for the twin nozzle anyways as you can increase the volume at a lower pressure which the pump should have no problem handling.
Field data will happen with these testers. I dont know of any other company sticking their necks out for this type of data. Kind of taboo in the field. But hey we deal with results as a by-product of design. And hope to increase an extra layer of security as to the operation of a complex product.
Thanks guys.. back to playing with glycerine and air bubbles
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
Yeah, you are right . . . . not sure what I was thinking . . .
Maybe what I was thinking is a little smipler;
If you set averthing to the max, controller to factory spec, you should see XXX - XXX pressure.
Kinda of like the guideline with the fuel pump thing . . . .
Good stuff!!!
Julio,
Correct me if i'm wrong, but the M15 nozzle is the only thing that allows your tester/pressure gauge to see any pressure? Is that correct?
What i am trying to say is that if you did not have a nozzle on the end, but rather a open hole, then there would be no pressure to build. Or is there some sort of valve within the main piece of brass?
I really like your idea here. Instead of having something wild to measure flow to verify if the pump is working, you use back pressure.
AWESOME!!!
Lastly, at what pressures (with the knob set at 8 and using Alcohol) do you recommend rebuilding the pump or replacing it???
Correct me if i'm wrong, but the M15 nozzle is the only thing that allows your tester/pressure gauge to see any pressure? Is that correct?
What i am trying to say is that if you did not have a nozzle on the end, but rather a open hole, then there would be no pressure to build. Or is there some sort of valve within the main piece of brass?
I really like your idea here. Instead of having something wild to measure flow to verify if the pump is working, you use back pressure.
AWESOME!!!
Lastly, at what pressures (with the knob set at 8 and using Alcohol) do you recommend rebuilding the pump or replacing it???
The main thing to check is it goes over 150 PSI and there are no leaks from the pump or lines at 150+ PSI. Your correct it cant go to 150 unless there is a nozzle in place.
Yullose... same issue as above.. a healthy pump is just that whether one or 3 nozzles are in place.
I was just curious how much it affected the line pressure, by having a M15 & M10 nozzle, compared to just a single M15.
I understand the 1 vs 3 point though.
Also... I have an important PM coming your way...
Typically its like a 10% drop in pressure when you add the second.
If the pump hits at least 150 PSI with the twins its healthy.
Got your message on the guage.. its a basic guage, if someone wants 100% accurracy they need to step up on the guage $$$. I test these in line with the 300 PSI industrial one I use on the bench.. if its close.. away it goes. Even if its 5% off, it still is close enough for what we're doing :wink:
If the pump hits at least 150 PSI with the twins its healthy.
Got your message on the guage.. its a basic guage, if someone wants 100% accurracy they need to step up on the guage $$$. I test these in line with the 300 PSI industrial one I use on the bench.. if its close.. away it goes. Even if its 5% off, it still is close enough for what we're doing :wink:
DougsfastZ
4.1
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2004
Would this work if I run a devilsown box that uses the stock MAP for boost reference?
Yes as long as the hose end is either -4 or 1/8 npt so it can hookup to the gauge. Or you can get an adapter and use the pushloc.
The map plug is universal for the 3 bar irreguardless of kit.
Suggestion, Let's save as many engines as possible.
I have a suggestion on the overflow/alky bottle. Make it with a wedge/baffle in it down near the bottom; so that if the bottle is getting low on alky that the molded in angled baffle will keep "enough" alky down at the bottom so it will not suck air on a hard pass.
I have a suggestion on the overflow/alky bottle. Make it with a wedge/baffle in it down near the bottom; so that if the bottle is getting low on alky that the molded in angled baffle will keep "enough" alky down at the bottom so it will not suck air on a hard pass.
I have a suggestion on the overflow/alky bottle. Make it with a wedge/baffle in it down near the bottom; so that if the bottle is getting low on alky that the molded in angled baffle will keep "enough" alky down at the bottom so it will not suck air on a hard pass.
Already in place becuase of the diameter and length of feed hose used. Thats a 3/8 hose that is 2.5 feet long. If you consume 1 ounce per second, that hose supports more than a few seconds worth. Now if the inlet of the pump was higher than the tank, hose was smaller diameter, Shorter feed hose, etc.. then you could starve the system. cars slower than a 1.3 60 foot are a non issue. Car faster than a 1.3 60 foot need to use foam in the tank.. at that point its a better situation to use a fuel cell.
Now to have a Regal tank injection molded is cost prohibitive. 7k for a basic mold plus the run of hundreds of tanks at $$$ per tank.
Great that your thinking.. thanks for the input.. I have datalogged plenty of cars and the sloshing i n the tank is a non issues for those first few moments.
Was aware of the alky in the hose part, but did not know how long it would last so I think the info will ease some members worries.
The cost prohibitive tank "is what it is" but if a new one was made a baffle of the right size and in the right place would be a good thing, "Just Say-in". Thanks for the information Razor.
PS: Beating a dead horse: but keeping the same basic tank shape but making the tank alittle taller and wider so it holds more would not be that noticeable.
We have an older (2005-ish) pump that with the tester, struggles to get 155.
This was with a battery charged up fully, the gain knob at 8, and the initial at about the 1-2 o'clock.
Is this "normal"? I also notice a lot of oscillation on the needle at full pressure, it swings from around 130 to 155 rapidly.
Car seems to perform ok, no knock or any apparent failures in the system, but I'd like to be proactive on the pump rather than reactive if this sounds like the pump is falling down...
This was with a battery charged up fully, the gain knob at 8, and the initial at about the 1-2 o'clock.
Is this "normal"? I also notice a lot of oscillation on the needle at full pressure, it swings from around 130 to 155 rapidly.
Car seems to perform ok, no knock or any apparent failures in the system, but I'd like to be proactive on the pump rather than reactive if this sounds like the pump is falling down...
