new post for problem lifter adjustment ??

turbo john FL

ITS ONLY A SIX SHOOTER
Joined
Dec 30, 2002
hey guys i had that other post up about car not starting after rebuild " new motor no start "" i have narrowed my problem too this . i have spark , i have fuel and the gen 2 is set up correctly . i have found unless im really dumb that my problem has been no compresssion do to the adjustment of my lifters .. i am running full roller with a 215/ 220 stick the lifters are com cam 853 s i installed and when i preload these from tdc on both valves per cyllinder i am spinning pushrod by hand until it no longer spins freely then i tigthen the adjuster 3/4 of a turn . by doing this i have no compression in any cylinders until i back off the adjusters to be free of any bind against the pushrod ( pushrod spins freely ) then i have compression in cylinder . am i wrong with the preload im trying to put on these lifters ?? all help is gratefully needed :)
 
Adjusting hydro lifters takes some experience to know how to do it. I suggest that you re do the adjustment but the "spinning" technique is not the best way. You can still spin the p-rod while collapsing the lifter and then adding the extra 1/2 turn opens the valve. Bring it to TDC compression stroke with the p-rod loose, then slowly tighten the adjuster down the whole time wiggling the p-rod checking for slack and clearance and you will feel the slack go away and the push rod will get a" little" bit harder to spin when you get to zero lash. its a fine adjustment you may need to go back and forth a few times to get it but it is very important to "get it". after you are certain you have zero lashed it you can the add your preload. the amount of preload will vary by engine builder but 1/2 turn should work. Does this make sense?
 
i dont do two valves on same cylinder

rotate until one valve opens fully (intake or exhaust) , adjust the other one ,keep doing that until youve done them all

and spinning pushrod rod is no good
i grab rocker and flip it up and down while adjusting and once theres no rattle ( freeplay )as posted above loosen a little and besure theres slack and go back to no lash , then adjust in your desired preload for 853 that around .030 or 1/2 to 3/4 turn as each turn is .050"
 
rocker arms are harland sharp roller rockers it seems with any preload they are stating open and im getting no compression ??i had a local guy set up the springs and spring pressure to go with spec card for cam
 
no compression could also be improper timing set chain gear setup ...or the valves are bent
 
Kinda sounds like the plungers aren't moving in your lifters, this happened to me once, I adjusted the rocker till the valve was pretty far open and waited a minute, the pressure from the valve spring slowly moved the plunger into the lifter then I adjusted as normal.
 
rocker arms are harland sharp roller rockers it seems with any preload they are stating open and im getting no compression ??i had a local guy set up the springs and spring pressure to go with spec card for cam
it sounds like you have solid roller lifters, can you verify if there hydro or solid? this would explain it:eek:
 
everything in the head s are fresh , new springs valve job and surfaced , the lifters are comp cams from full throttle 105853-12 but dont know do these come solid also and this is across the board with the lifters keeping the valves open not just one or two valves if i back them off to zero lash i guess then i get compression . if they are hydrailic then they dont seem to be bleeding off for the preload ?????
 
Well you have the right part number per the catalog, "Hyd roller"
I have used Zero to 1/4 turn lash for many years, the lifters are no way near pumped up on start up or dry assy.
Obviously you have deleted the old preset torque and go rocker shaft, which would make pushrod length an issue to investigate.

As mentioned an out of phase cam install may very well bleed off your compression.
do you have access to a leakdon tester ? this will verify that the valves are seated and sealing properly (not bent etc)
 
everything in the head s are fresh , new springs valve job and surfaced , the lifters are comp cams from full throttle 105853-12 but dont know do these come solid also and this is across the board with the lifters keeping the valves open not just one or two valves if i back them off to zero lash i guess then i get compression . if they are hydrailic then they dont seem to be bleeding off for the preload ?????

Did you check the lifters before installing them? The set of Comp 853 lifters i got had so much crud builtup inside from the grease they use the plungers would barely move and i could hear and feel the resistance when i pushed down on the plunger. It took me soaking them in paint thinner,spraying PB blaster into them and working the plungers up and down with a pushrod for quite a while before they finally cleaned up. I haven't had a problem with them after installation but i did run Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine before doing the first couple of oil changes.
 
Good point there, I always clean new components in at least mineral spirits, or my parts washer before drying and soaking in 40wt, could well be shipping/ packing grease binding things up.
Or maybe you did that already.
 
Find tdc on #1 compression stroke. Then adjust the rocker to be adjusted backward till there is lash. Move the pushrod up and down and observe the lash. Begin removing the lash with the adjuster. Keep feeling the lash by moving the pushrod up towards the rocker arm cup. Once you feel none go 1/4-1/2 turn further and tighten the adjuster screw. Look at pic for adjusting all rockers with 2 revs of the crankshaft:
 

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these lifters where in my previous motor build and had no problems with them so carried them over to this build , figured they would be fine . now after backing off the pre load on 2 cylinders to a point where it was just snug but not tight on the pushrod ( via spinning pushrod ) i pulled the plugs and had good compression on the cylinders , so im either over tight on all lifters ( i adjusted all to 3/4 turn after the sping on the pushrod was gone )or can something be stopping them from bleeding of after the preload ??
 
turbo john FL said:
these lifters where in my previous motor build and had no problems with them so carried them over to this build , figured they would be fine . now after backing off the pre load on 2 cylinders to a point where it was just snug but not tight on the pushrod ( via spinning pushrod ) i pulled the plugs and had good compression on the cylinders , so im either over tight on all lifters ( i adjusted all to 3/4 turn after the sping on the pushrod was gone )or can something be stopping them from bleeding of after the preload ??
Why don't you readjust all of them the way I described? It's very obvious that you're not sure if the rest are adjusted correctly.
 
sounds like he is bottoming the hydraulic mechanism and then going an adittional 1/2 turn, or the hydraulic plunger is stuck down from over adjusting> explain what you mean by after the spring on pushrod is gone.
 
Find tdc on #1 compression stroke. Then adjust the rocker to be adjusted backward till there is lash. Move the pushrod up and down and observe the lash. Begin removing the lash with the adjuster. Keep feeling the lash by moving the pushrod up towards the rocker arm cup. Once you feel none go 1/4-1/2 turn further and tighten the adjuster screw. Look at pic for adjusting all rockers with 2 revs of the crankshaft:

Thats how i adjusted my T&D rockers like described in the pic. Very easy to do that way.
 
i meant i used the spinning of the pushrod while snugging down the adjuster until it just grabbed and did not let the pushrod spin freely to determine the point which to add my 3/4 turn from
yes i think i will re try adjusting again as bison was saying and see what happens ,
 
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