New owner of an 83 T-Type.

and this is why I said to rebuild the motor you had in there. For the money you spent you could have had it torn down and had the money to do everything. It's alright man, it happens sometimes. I got sold a junk turbo for 150 bucks with a bad turbine shaft. For the money I got into it I could have bought a known good one and a rebuild kit to freshen it. If it was me I would pull your motor and have everything magnafluxed. You never know, you might need some of those parts to make one good motor. Post the top of one of the pistons, I want to see if they are n/a or turbo ones. Is the block a 3.8? You can get a rebuild kit for the 78-85 turbo short block for around 350. Just do it right. You got 4 heads so you can choose the two that require the least amount of work ($$$) and use those and have some cleanup work done to them. You don't need a full on port job, just match the ports to the manifold and intake and have the intake cleaned up while your at it. Port your turbo elbow, plenum, and the rest of the stuff up top and clean up the exhaust manifold ports. It will be worth it in the end. Don't rush it. Do it the way you want. See if you can get the dude with the cutlass to make you a downpipe and with alky injection you should be well over 300hp. You should be able to use a progressive alky kit on it also.
 
Well, its a new day........

AND I'M STILL PISSED!

Sorry. I think I'm just going to box it all up and take a few days off to think about it all.

Oh, here is the pic you ask for
its not letting me put up a picture now. I'll post it as soon as I can.
 
got it now
 

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That is a turbo piston. if anything you can bead blast them and possibly sell them to someone building a 3.8 14 bolt
 
"3.8 14 bolt" Do you mean 14 oil pan bolts. This block in a 14 bolt oil pan, is that a turbo block? Also, the seller said it had a Fillet Crank, but it is not. Are all turbo motor cranks Fillet? If not, how can I tell if this is a turbo crank or not?
 
This should help some Bill. All kinds of tech info but not a lot of traffic.

Index to Photo Guides

That helps a ton!!! Thank you.

So I am glad to see that I DO have a turbo fillet crank. I had seen some pics of a crank with angle cuts in the oil holes of the crank and thought that was what made it a turbo crank. Mine does not have the angle holes,but it is a fillet crank. So things look a bit better today. Thanks again.

I just check my mail box and found a note from Sat. asking if I want to sell the car? "Very Interested". Things that make you go ...hhhuuummmm.
 
If it helps I'm a mod on this and one other Buick board and am a member on all the turbo buick type boards. I'm a fanatic though.:biggrin:

GN/Ttype is a great resource on tech so you might want to join so you can read some of the posts over there. I also got the only sticky in the B4black section over there.:biggrin:
 
areyou sure

now charlie are you halucinating again was that a 83 or 85 turbo block he torn downjust sayingwho's a fanatic
 
2 more questions.
1) My connecting rods got mixed up. (can we just leave it at that?) The caps are matched. Is there anything that I should do to them before I reuse them in the rebuilt motor? They will be mismatched and How can I tell the forward/rear of the rods?
2) Another member may have an 83 ECM and Dist. for sale. With my 84-85 block and 83 mixup top end with a Holley carb and ?? Dist., should I try to go back to stock top end , or is there a better route? No, I do not have deep pockets for this rebuild and not looking for over 400hp.
 
What does "rebuild" mean to you? If you are having the block bored and honed, and new pistons put on the rods, then it won't matter that they're mixed up. You don't necessarily have to resize the rods if the bearings looked good when you took it apart.

If you're trying to just put it back together with the parts you have, you really should have marked the rod/piston assemblies.

The block won't make any difference to the setup as it sits. If your distributor is an HEI without vacuum advance, you should have the stock ECM, MAP sensor, etc. hooked up to provide proper timing control.

...I still have my short block sitting in the garage... :D
 
What does "rebuild" mean to you? If you are having the block bored and honed, and new pistons put on the rods, then it won't matter that they're mixed up. You don't necessarily have to resize the rods if the bearings looked good when you took it apart.

If you're trying to just put it back together with the parts you have, you really should have marked the rod/piston assemblies.

The block won't make any difference to the setup as it sits. If your distributor is an HEI without vacuum advance, you should have the stock ECM, MAP sensor, etc. hooked up to provide proper timing control.

...I still have my short block sitting in the garage... :D

The CList block is all stock and 3.8". The motor in the car is ?????, but some ring damage of some kind done to one or more walls. I think that at the least, I will have to push a block out to .020 and buy new pistons. So rods can be checked and reused. I will have the CList crank checked out, but it looks good to me. I want to use a new cam. (still reading and comfused about that one).

............Your killing me here..........but that was a soft blow. :biggrin:
still not out of the picture!
 
Rods can be resized on the big end so that's not an issue. What do you think a rebuilt Buick turbo motor will cost? You can't use cast pistons that are the same as an NA engine. They're specific to turbo motors. The machine work is also different if you want it to live. The machine shop you use needs to know these engines so if it's a local make sure he has some sort of clue on the Buick V6 turbo specific engines. Most of them can slap a chevy together but the Buicks are much more technical and clearances are not even the same.
 
basically what charlie is saying is take it to a reputable shop. I would have the rods resized though at least. Beings you are using older engines you can reuse the bolts. That will save you some money. I would use a stock 87 gn cam unless you plan on doing some head and intake work. You should be able to get a rebuild kit for under 400. By the time the machine shop work and top end gaskets are done you should be around 1000. Just depends where you want done. Don't forget to have your heads checked out and new valve springs installed also.
 
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