New fuel pump not working..trying to figure out.

[REGALTURBO]

Ok guys, I will try my best to accurately explain what I`ve done so far. My Walbro340 went bad last fall. So during the winter I purchased a new one. In the process I also purchased a new razors alky kit in my quest for 10s. Sent my chip to Eric @ TurboTweak. He updated the chip to an alky and sent it back. I`m all set up to this point.

Fast forward to this week. Pulled the tank to finally get things assembled. Noticed some rust on the walls of the inside of the tank. Didn`t waste any time trying to clean it up or even risk putting it back in with my new fuel pump so I purchased a FinishLine fuel tank from a local vendor. I`m aliitle anal so I had to fully paint it and clear coat the tank at my shop. I taped off all the openings of the tank not to get anything inside. Installed the fuel pump to the sending unit, attached all the harnesses to their proper location and dropped the sending unit in the tank. Then attached the tank to the vehicle and connected the fuel lines.

I got my new chip from Eric out of my tool box where its been sitting in its original package(which I believe is some anti-magnetic plastic baggy). I proceeded to install the chip to the vehicle comp.(both feet on my garage floor as I`ve read that this is the proper way so I`m grounded as well as the chip). Note....I did not have the battery disconnected. But I`ve never had a problem before doing this with the battery connected as I`ve switched chips many times before at the track without disconnecting the battery.

OK....so all seems good. I open my translator PLUS. Put all the settings at 0.

Dump in 10 gallons of fresh 93 oct. gas. Get in the car and turn it over until I get at least 40 lbs oil pressure. Get out, connect the fuel pump harness to my hot wire connector. Get back in, attempt to start and .....zero.

I cannot get this fuel pump to operate.
I`ve check the fuse...its good. I checked for power to the pump...my multi-meter shows 8.0volts with the key on. I double checked the ground strap and even completely cleaned the area of the tank where it connects to bare metal. Still nothing.

So I`m wondering, obviously;what could be wrong? When I installed the sending unit and pump in the tank, I noticed that my new tank came with a new sending unit locking ring and o-ring. I used both. Is the purpose of the ground strap to the tank to work together with the locking ring which holds the sending unit in place to ground the sending unit? It had some surface rust which most original ones I`ve seen do. Should it be pulled back out and cleaned off to properly ground the sending unit? Or does this have nothing to do with the pump operation at all?

Is there a way I can test the pump once its pulled out? Once the key is turned on you simply cannot hear the fuel pump operating as before. I`m now in the process of siphoning the 10 gallons back out so I can drop the tank. Not fun.

 

[ES1]

1) I would hook-up the factory wiring at the tank and by pass your hot-wire for now.
If it works, the problem is in your hot-wire. Since you said you checked the fuse, I assume the hot-wire fuse. Does your hot-wire have a relay? Maybe the relay is bad or the wires are not pused in far enough.
2) If the factory fuel pump wiring does not work, it could be the relay on the passenger side, the fuel pump fuse, or another fuse. I think it is the ign.

If this does not work, to test the fuel pump, take a bettery to the back of the car, and apply power from the battery to the FP harness to see if it works.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

does it even prime when the key is on??? do you have a FP Gauge?

 

[1quick6]

Have you tested the relay in your hotwire kit? Depending on your kit, there might be a 30 amp relay in the trunk that could have gone south.

 

[REGALTURBO]

No it doesn`t even prime. There is no noise coming from the tank. The usual sound of the fuel pump is non-existant.
One other thing I should point out is that of the three terminals at the fuel connector I`m only getting power to the middle terminal at the back of the car leading to the fuel pump. This is with the key on.
Is this usual? Should I be getting power to at least two of them?

The fuse I checked is the fuse under the dash?

How can I test the hot wire relay?

 

[turbojd]

How can I test the hot wire relay?[/QUOTE]

Disconnect the hot wire, then hook the factory wiring back up and see if it primes and starts. I had a 30 amp hot wire relay go bad on me a few months ago where my car would not prime, replaced the 30 amp relay and all is good now!

 

[TurboDave]

No it doesn`t even prime. There is no noise coming from the tank. The usual sound of the fuel pump is non-existant.
One other thing I should point out is that of the three terminals at the fuel connector I`m only getting power to the middle terminal at the back of the car leading to the fuel pump. This is with the key on.
Is this usual? Should I be getting power to at least two of them?

The fuse I checked is the fuse under the dash?

How can I test the hot wire relay?

The other supply will only be hot (12v) for few seconds (priming process), then it will go away. The person measuring that pin will have to be back there when the key is turned on.

 

[REGALTURBO]

After doing some searches and reading different threads, is it possible that my new Walbro is simply not working? Reading what this new setup is with the Supra Denso pump it seems like Walbro has had some issues.

I`m just wondering.

Thanks to those who have offered suggestions.

 

[streetknight]

You did say you checked the fuse in the fuse box right? Also, you don't have the ECM connector by the battery unhooked do you?

 

[REGALTURBO]

Yes I checked the fuse in the fuse box. It was ok. No the ECM connector wasn`t unhooked either.

I`m going to try and run the pump directly off a spare battery in the morning to see what happens. I`m just beginning to wonder now what could have possible happened between the time my first pump took a dump and finally getting around to doing this change. It has been maybe 8 months or so since my car has been sitting.

 

[1quick6]

I still think it is your relay. Mine was bad straight out of storage this year. Often times, there is an inline fuse near the alternator going to the hotwire kit's relay. Check that too.

 

[REGALTURBO]

Thanks guys....I`ll do some checking tomorrow and let everyone know where things stand.

 

[streetknight]

Have you tried to jump the pump out at the wire under the hood behind the alternator?

 

[REGALTURBO]

Well I got to the shop early this morning and first thing I did was run power directly to the pump harness with some jumper wires and a spare battery. The pump turned on and I was relieved to know that finally it wasn`t the pump itself now. And that I didn`t have to drop the tank.

So from that point on I knew it was within the electrical harness itself, the hot wire harness or a relay. I checked nearly every ground and when I finally got to checking the fuel pump relay I simply unbolted the relay bracket from the inner fender, replaced the relay and bolted it back up. Checked to see if the pump was running with the key on and it was.

So it seems to have been the relay. Thanks to the everyone who had made some suggestions. In the end I didn`t have to drop the tank again which I definitely wasn`t looking forward to doing.