New door seals and window seals.....door shuts way too hard!!!

[Maltman]

I'm not going to say much until I hear from anyone else who has installed the Poston door seals and window seals (both). I thought they were OEM....guess I should've asked!!!

I can't drive a car that won't let me shut the door without slamming it like I'm pissed and worse, won't let me roll the window up....not to mention the window seal is worse than before....and in order to shut it I have to push on the top edge of the glass. I'd like to know how that is going to work out when I'm in the car????

that said....and no solution at hand....where do I find the OEMs. I'm going to contact the dealer Monday, but in the meantime, any help is appreciated that might save me the money.....

Mark

 

[xrunner123]

I installed the ones from Kirban and the same thing happened, but after a week the doors shut normally.

 

[TType84]

oem weatherstrpping for the doors and windows totals to about $600 i hear.....

 

[Matt Weiser]

This happened to me too on my wagon. The new seals are just stiff. My advice is to just be patient, the seals will collapse down a bit on their own under pressure from the door, and then it will close like normal.

Or you can do it the hard way like I did: Loosen the door striker bolts on the door frame and move them out a tiny bit, maybe 1/16", then tighten; be sure you don't move them up or down or your door alignment will be screwed. Then in a couple months you'll be adjusting the strikers back in to where they were because the seals have taken their "set." Like I said, it's best just to be patient.

 

[Maltman]

Well, the door seals I can be patient with, but the window seals are going to drive me nuts!

I don't think even my new window motors can push the window up into the seals effectively......is this normal break-in requirements for the window seals too?

.....and would the car just sitting with the doors shut collapse the rubber?

Mark

 

[terryk]

Originally posted by Maltman
Well, the door seals I can be patient with, but the window seals are going to drive me nuts!

I don't think even my new window motors can push the window up into the seals effectively......is this normal break-in requirements for the window seals too?

.....and would the car just sitting with the doors shut collapse the rubber?

Mark

I'm still adjusting my windows and seals 6 months later and the "amazing tell-all book of window facts" many people rave about is pretty much useless. It assumes everything will fall right into place. It don't. The dollar trick was useful to a point. Using the fan to pressurize the passenger compartment just lets you know you'll never get the windows adjusted under all conditions.

I suspect the window adjustment position at the factory had a high level of turnover......and alcohol related fatalities.

My main problem is the rear upper corner and getting the tilt of the upper seal correct so the window doesn't fold it over when you close the door with the window up.

Then there is getting it to seal with the window up period, verses sealing when the door is closed with the window down then raised. Then the voices start "you should have lived with the wind noise......".

Getting the doors to close was a minor detail. That worked pretty well the first time although they were a bit hard for about a month. They got much better and now close with a soft push.

TK
Terry

 

[TRiv]

I have not looked at late model (mid 80's) reproduction weatherstripping but if it's anything like 60's/70's musclecar type reproduction weatherstripping, the rubber/foam they use is just too hard. I painted a lot of the older cars during the musclecar restoration craze and the door/glass /trunk weatherstripping caused the same problems you mentioned, slam doors and trunk shut, leaky windows, etc.

My girlfriend GTO took several years for the weathersrtipping to settle in, and it still is'nt right. The stuff looks great fits great but is too hard. Original GM or any other manufacturer for that matter use a very soft foam that has a skinned over texture that keeps the soft foam from soaking up water. Looked at weatherstripping lately for my 67 Chevelle and the stuff available now is the same rock hard stuff they were selling 15 years ago. I am lucky that my 36 year old stuff still looks and works good ( except trunk, replaced, with that hard stuff).

My guess is that there is one maybe two manufacurers that make repro weathersrtipping (all makes, models) and I have heard the same story eveywhere. It's too bad they do'nt make the stuff right, OK it looks and fits great but it does'nt function. Either you will have to live with what you have, adjust doors/strikers as mentioned ( the factory never had to do that though, the stuff was softer) ,buy new GM ( expensive but worth it) or find best possible in the yards.

 

[Turbosix6]

My bro just picked up the weather strip from postons and its horrible. Way to hard around the window and they even admitted having problems with the fit. (postons)

So why keep selliing it.........

try this link - http://www.weatherstripspecial.com/regal.html

 

[Maltman]

I ask the same question over and over...........at least tell us there is a problem when we are asking about it, some people don't mind I suppose, but I'm not one of them!

I'm going to just mark it down as a learning experience and order some OEM from the dealer......looks like you can still get it from the factory which was surprising

Yeah, about 200-300 more than poston's, but I'm not about to cheap out on this part when I've spent the long dollar on everything else!

Thanks guys,

Mark

 

[terryk]

Mine is all GM weather-stripping, not repo.

I shutter at what the aftermarket stuff must be like if you think it's stiffer than GM.

 

[zam70]

You'll probably have to readjust the windows with new stripping. Chances are, when the old stuff started to wear, someone adjusted things to make them seal again. After putting new seals in, you'll have to adjust again.

Oem works great. Expensive but few headaches.

 

[national]

Its been a while but I had checked on the door weatherstrip & didnt think it was that much higher..I was thinking 200 compared to 100 aftermarket..I may be mistaken or something but I went with postons (i think) & they fit very very sucky...My originals looked rough & had rubber off exposing the white plastic on the ends but didnt air whistle..now I can look at the forward jam & see a pencil size hole gap in it..compared to originals they looked nothing the same & figured I would have problems with it..mine have been on for over a year & still doors shut terrible..gonna buy new GM's & maybe someone here will buy mine off ebay..nice like new but not for me..they will be on ebay no reserve..I dont want them anymor..high bidder gets them..I fear the time when I have to buy new weatherstripping for my 69 roadrunner.
Brian

 

[88 CuttyClassic]

i have the door weatherstrip for my SS, and after a month it was almost fine, its actually not long enough and you have the stretch it to get it to fit halfway decent.

 

[Maltman]

Well....I did it....but not without crying:

~$400 dollars for both doors and window seals.....and that was with a reduced price (one step up from wholesale).

Now I just hope they fit good

Mark