Need help...

Robes87GN

Bench Racing Hater
Joined
Aug 7, 2003
Here I sit once again needing answers regarding my no spark and no fuel questions. Still, I have received no spark. All the fuses are good, negative battery terminal is connected to the frame rail and body, positive is hooked up, it is plugged in, all ground wires are plugged in. Hot wire kit is not crimped or hurt in any way. I drove about 100 miles today picking up a fuel relay and a crank sensor for it. Crank sensor is set now. Whenever I touch the hot wire from the fuel pump to the alternator, it kicks on, even with no keys in the car and the new relay.

I can't stand sitting here night after night wondering why my car will not work. I am seriously considering selling the car just to be relieved of the frustration of it all, but I don't want to. Please, anyone, anybody, call me, let me call you, pm me, reply to this, I don't care, just give me a clue why my car produces no spark and the fuel pump kicks on at all times. I am about to go absolutely nuts. Thank you.
 
I read one thing in your other post. You touched some wire to your droplight and it turned on the fuel pump endlessly. What in the world was that wire? Also, are you sure you connected the orange ECM wire behind the battery? That would do exactly what you are experiencing. If so, then it's time to start tracing power. I am emailing you a schematic of the ECM and engine sensors. Check for power on the module (key on, engine off) going to crank sensor and cam sensor.
 
It was the hot wire to my fuel pump. I have a fuel pump hotwire kit on it. Should I have my motor grounded to the battery? Right now it is grounded to the frame and the body.
 
Originally posted by Robes87GN
It was the hot wire to my fuel pump. I have a fuel pump hotwire kit on it. Should I have my motor grounded to the battery? Right now it is grounded to the frame and the body.

YES! There should be a heavy gauge (#2?) wire from the frame rail to the block just under the turbo mount bracket.
 
Thats what i would do put everything the way the factory make it to be

are you getting the inside lights to come on???
dose the motor crank???
hows the battrie charge

I have a thought just out of sh!# and giggles how is the connection to the battrie are they screwed in all the way??

disconnect the hot wire and run normal

Johnny
give me a call
1(505)899-3256
 
Inside lights: yes
Motor cranks: yes
Battery charges: yes then dies
You might get a call later tonight.
 
Sounds like a visit to Steve Wood's website for the troubleshooting chart is in order.

My car won't start. Backfired ONCE. Now it just cranks.

The cam sensor cup was replace - no change.

Got the "Quick Start Module" from Casper - no change.

Traced the troubleshooting chart down to a bad CCCI. Have not replaced it yet.

I have power at the crank sensor cable and an injector cable, but no pulse for the injectors.
 
I have it down to a dead short in the fuel pump line. Even though I ran it back to stock, it still turns off with the keys out of the car. No spark still, I am sooooo confused on that.
 
hey adam

let us know if it was the crank sensor im positive it is after all its been rare to get a good one from autozone

Johnny
 
Put the crank sensor in. Still doesn't work. I have a dead short somewhere and no spark. We pulled every fuse in the box and still got sparks. Weird thing was is that my friends volt tester didn't read out a short from the battery to the block. I am at a loss for words.
 
Seek Professional Help

There have been 3 times in my life when I ran into Electrical/Drivability problems and I just couldn't figure out what was wrong. I dang near drove myself mad trying to find the trouble. So, in all 3 cases I asked around for THE BEST shop in town in regards to electrical/drivabilty issues. I left the car for 2 days, paid out my $$$$ and drove the car home with a smile on my face BUT with an empty wallet. Sometimes it's just best to let a fresh set of eyes and ears have the car. I'd say you're at that point. Just my .02 - BB:D
 
I am at that point, you are right. Good thing I know a guy who works at a GM dealership and can help me out. Lucky me.
 
Im tellng im pretty sure its your crank sensor but oh well perhaps they might find your electrial gremlin

Johnny

good luck
 
That's what he thought it might be. He said it is either the coil packs, the ECM, or the crank sensor. I bet you're right Johnny.
 
I wouldnt even spend the money gm half of the time no most of the time they dont know natha

do as i said and then we will go from there

Johnny
 
I finally got it running. Naturally, it was a bad electronic piece from autozone. It was a little deali-o I bought for my scanmaster to plug it into a fuse. Took it off, car started right up. I have about 80 miles on the car now.

I have a few bugs however:

1. The boost gauge flutters. As in, I will be holding it steady at 10psi and it will jump for maybe 1/10th of a second and drop down. I have no clue about this at all. (Vaccuum line in wrong spot? leak?)

2. Tranny doesn't like to shift until at least 3000. I have to get up to 65 and let off to have it shift. I did get blue clutches, stage 2 shift kit, and a kevlar band. Also I had a 2025 stock replacement stall put in. (TV Cable?)

3. Likes to almost bog down when it shifts. I dropped the FP from 47-42psi and it helped some, but still does it.

4. Scanmaster has weird readings. O2 milivolts goes from 0-900 all the time. Reads knock at 10psi (all the way to 17.1) even though my caspers sensor stayed on the perfect green light. Any clues on how I should set it all up? (Numbers that work for you guys would be great.)

I might think of more later, so stick with me here.

TIA

Adam
 
Good to hear well i was only partally wrong anyways give me a call if you get stump after a while

Johnny
 
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