Car runs great most of the time but sometimes cuts out. Does not really have to be under a load, just normal driving. Also, if you get in the gas around 3000 rpms and 10 psi boost it acts like you hit a rev limit and bucks. Has new f/p, hot wire, green tops, tt chip. Previous owner did a/c delco coil pack, module, and possible a cam sensor within the past 500 miles. Engine temp does not seem to matter, outside temp maybe. Thanks for the help.
Need help, cuts out
- Thread starter TURBO T/A
- Start date
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Fuel injected cars CANT vapor lock... the fuel system is under high pressure, which makes vapor lock impossible... sounds like the ignition module may be going flaky..... pull the connector off and clean it real good, make sure the connection is excellent... also make sure the module is FIRMLY bolted to it's mounting bracket, the bracket if firmly bolted to the engine, and the interface there is clean... that's where it gets it's ground.... letting the car sit a bit will 'heat soak' the module, and the modules usually only show their ugly side when they get hot..... another possibility is the maf getting flaky....
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Sounds like a module or coil pack....:frown: ... assumng the fuel pressure is behaving properly....
Edit: just saw problem was present before and after fuel pump change.... module or coilpack....
Edit: just saw problem was present before and after fuel pump change.... module or coilpack....
So lets say your going at 45 mph with a very light pedal... as your driving it cuts out?
Since you did the MAF and it wasnt it, the only other sensor that can cuase an engine to randomly cut out is the crank sensor. A loose bolt on the harmonic balancer can let the balancer move forward and loose crank sensor signal.
Could be your crank sensor is failing.
This is the sensor necessary for keeping the engine running.
Post back.
Since you did the MAF and it wasnt it, the only other sensor that can cuase an engine to randomly cut out is the crank sensor. A loose bolt on the harmonic balancer can let the balancer move forward and loose crank sensor signal.
Could be your crank sensor is failing.
This is the sensor necessary for keeping the engine running.
Post back.
I would agree with Razor. I have seen many balancers come loose. Also a loose or miss adjusted crank sensor. You can also unplug the cam sensor while the car is running and drive it. If the problem is gone check the sensor & ring. Keep in mind if you stall or shut off the motor with the cam sensor dissconnected the motor will not start with the sensor unpluged.
Steve K.
Steve K.
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Not sure what the hell the converter would have to do w/it... 
but Razor and SK are correct also... certainly 'could' be a crank sensor or loose balancer issue... a fairly common occurance with these cars is the balancer comes loose due to under torqueing.... does it ALWAYS, or nearly so, buck and pop when it hits 10psi/3k? If it always does it, I'd lean more towards the cp/module... but definitely check that the balancer is tight (factory spec is like 215 ft-lbs!) and the crank sensor/bracket is tight... a nice, easy way to check the crank sensor adjustment is to cut a piece out of the side of a 2 liter soda bottle as a 'feeler gage'.... it's about the right thickness and should slide between the sensor and the interuptor ring....
Also, pull a plug or two and make sure they are gapped at a tight .032"... could be something as simple as that... maybe the previous owner replaced the plugs and didn't have a clue?? and gapped the plugs way too wide???
but Razor and SK are correct also... certainly 'could' be a crank sensor or loose balancer issue... a fairly common occurance with these cars is the balancer comes loose due to under torqueing.... does it ALWAYS, or nearly so, buck and pop when it hits 10psi/3k? If it always does it, I'd lean more towards the cp/module... but definitely check that the balancer is tight (factory spec is like 215 ft-lbs!
) and the crank sensor/bracket is tight... a nice, easy way to check the crank sensor adjustment is to cut a piece out of the side of a 2 liter soda bottle as a 'feeler gage'.... it's about the right thickness and should slide between the sensor and the interuptor ring....Also, pull a plug or two and make sure they are gapped at a tight .032"... could be something as simple as that... maybe the previous owner replaced the plugs and didn't have a clue?? and gapped the plugs way too wide???
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Come on Julio!!! :tongue: ONLY???? :biggrin: Well.... maybe 'sensor', but certainly not 'item' in that sentence... :biggrin:
These cars are finicky, but with the wealth of knowledge on this board, they are usually pretty EASY to figure out.... with a little help from your 'friends'...
If its acting up, and i get in it, pretty much every time 10psi/3k. If not acting up, will boost 17psi perfect and runs strong. I checked to make sure I had good spark to plugs but did not pull to check gap. Old owner told me it would do this once in a blue moon and he replaced coil, mod, plugs, wires, and crank sens. trying to fix it
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Check the grounds to the back of the block, and especially check that the coilpack/module is bolted firmly to the bracket and the bracket firmly to the intake... maybe scrape the paint off where it bolts down....that is where it gets it's ground... flaky grounds are common, and cause those exact random symptoms....:wink:
