Need help car running bad after boost

bayareaturbo

Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2004
I was getting on the freeway on ramp and boosted to 23psi 02's were 816 and 0 kr. A few seconds later the car started to sputter the throttle was non responsive and bogged. I exited and popped the hood, all the vacuum lines were in place. I turned on the car and it seemed fine. I get back on the freeway and its running normal for about 45 min. I get on the gas and boost again, I let off the gas and same problem. I pulled into a gas station and put the car in neutral. I revved the gas it sputtered choked and black smoke and a rich smell came out the exhaust. I drove the car home barley making it 90 Miles took 3hrs :eek: On the freeway I had to boost 5PSI to get the car going and it still sputtered and choked 80% of the drive home. Every 10 min or so the car would drive back to normal as if nothing was wrong for about 5 min at a time and then it would go back to the problems :confused: There were no codes on my scan master. The BLM's were low 116. Everything in my Sig is what's on the car. Point me in the right direction guys. Thanks
 
Check all of your air inlet piping. I bet you blew up, or blew off a hose after the turbo.
 
Check all of your air inlet piping. I bet you blew up, or blew off a hose after the turbo.
I checked all of them unless there are some hidden I'm not seeing? What I'm trying to figure out is why it's runs so poor then goes back to running good for a few min?
 
First pull your dipstik and make sure you havent washed your cylinders with fuel. if it smells then change oil ASAP

Sounds like your dumping a ton of fuel, have you givin your motor a comp check yet? how about OHM your coil pack and wires?...plug gap?

If compression checks out ok and coil pack and wires check out OK then go to next step to tweak your fuel trim

Go into your TT settings and pull fuel out, small increments at a time and test...your low BLM says your pulling fuel so its loading up causing you to bog due to wet plugs

Tune with fuel not alky
 
What are your TPS voltages, should be really close to .44v at idle and around 4.25 WOT i that exact same problem when i had a poor connection on my TPS it had a bad ground and read around .90v or more!
Also i had a IAC go bad and gave me the same type of issue, what are the IAC steps at while idle and cruising?

,Dan
 
also i had another issue with a bad MAF sensor that made it hog rich! what are your mass air readings?
 
Double check all your IC hoses and their connections. Someties boost pushes the hoses apart a little from their connections.

If your hoses are in deed proper.. then you have a bad MAF
 
You can also unplug your MAF and the car will go into a speed density safety mode. DO NOT boost while the maf is unplugged, just drive it like a normal car.

I had to do this once to get my car home when the MAF took a dump at the track... it's just fine for normal driving, just stay out of the boost.

From what I understand(and I may be wrong) is that when the car recieves no maf signal it goes to a pre-programmed fuel tables that are similar to the N/A V6 fuel tables.

If the car runs better and quits stumbling at idle, I would also vote for MAF.

Also it is possible that you blew a small hole in an intercooler hose. Either way it sounds like your car thinks it's getting a lot more air than it really is an is dumping fuel.
 
I unplugged the MAf and the 02's went to 002 the car tried to die and would not drive. This is my scanmaster readings in park after being warmed up for 5-10 min.
AF 07
L8 53-57
TPS 40
INT 112
BL 115
CLE 164
ATS 100
IAC 30
If it were a censor gone bad why no codes? or check engine light? When I unplugged the MAF the check engine light did come on and after I plugged back in and reset the computer it went off. The car idles fine its when I give gas it when it acts up? What should I do from this point?
 
What is your vaccum reading at idle? What is the Fuel pressure at idle with the line on. Your TPS should be between .42-.48. I am am thinking MAF or IC hose cracked too.
 
What is your vaccum reading at idle? What is the Fuel pressure at idle with the line on. Your TPS should be between .42-.48. I am am thinking MAF or IC hose cracked too.

I think only at .38 will the TPS throw a code (Bay Area) so .40 is ok..mine is at .42 though...the TPS/IAC can be tricky or simple..just some cars react diff to diff settings within the numbers so one car might like .41 tps and 28 IAC and another car might idle like crap at them numbers..dunno why though.

Anyway I thought you put on a new LS1 Maf?... thats why I skipped right over the potential Maf issue.

If you went through Maf troubleshooting, proceed to others in list

Mike
 
When I tap on the MAF lightly the car surges. I guess I need a new MAF. Would it be worth the extra money to go ls1 setup?
 
When I tap on the MAF lightly the car surges. I guess I need a new MAF. Would it be worth the extra money to go ls1 setup?

Yes. If replacing the MAF go with the LS1 and call it a day. BLMs say RICH.

Same problem with mine 2 years ago. Bad MAF. Spit and sputter..clear up...spit and sputter...black smoke, etc..
 
Yes. If replacing the MAF go with the LS1 and call it a day. BLMs say RICH.

Same problem with mine 2 years ago. Bad MAF. Spit and sputter..clear up...spit and sputter...black smoke, etc..
I would need to buy the ls1 maf and the Translator correct? Is that all I would need?
 
I put a different "working" mass airflow in the car today and no change at all. It still runs very poorly. What should I do next :confused:
 
Check your intercooler hose from the turbo out to the intercooler inlet.I know this has already been mentioned but I would look again. Sometimes they slip of the bottom where you cant see it. Feel on the bottom side of the hose with your hand.
 
Check to see if your coil pack is grounded. There's 3 bolts under the bottom that hold it to the bracket and 3 bolts that hold it to the intake and rear bracket...which has two bolts holding it to the lower intake.
 
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