My scanmaster readings

Buickforlife

Tyler Northcutt
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Hello everybody here are my scanmaster #'s I am not 100% sure on what to look for, so if you see something wrong with them, please let me know!

These #'s were recorded at a warm idle.

AF 05
L8 38
Int 128
Bl 122
Ats 75
r 925
tps .44
IAC 00
cc 236

I am not sure what all of the numbers mean, if you could help me out I would appreciate it.

Thanks!
 
except for possibly the IAC at zero. everything looks ok. what you want to do with the scanmaster is make a WOT pass in 3rd gear taking note of your 02 milivolts and any knock. if you see anything more than a 1 or 2 degree retard get out of it! heres a website that explains the scanmaster well Vortex Turbo Buick Performance
 
except for possibly the IAC at zero. everything looks ok. what you want to do with the scanmaster is make a WOT pass in 3rd gear taking note of your 02 milivolts and any knock. if you see anything more than a 1 or 2 degree retard get out of it! heres a website that explains the scanmaster well Vortex Turbo Buick Performance

It runs fine at WOT, no knock running about 12lbs of boost. The 02 mv are ~820-830

Why would the IAC be zero?
 
the IAC goes down as the car warms up. im not sure it should be at zero. maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in. im wondering if you have a vacuum leak thats allowing air in essentially bypassing the IAC? and why only 12lbs? start turning it up!
 
the IAC goes down as the car warms up. im not sure it should be at zero. maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in. im wondering if you have a vacuum leak thats allowing air in essentially bypassing the IAC? and why only 12lbs? start turning it up!

Lol, I will have to turn it up some, I just want to make sure the tune is right, plus the best gas I can get around here is 91 :mad:. I will try adjusting it after I get this IAC thing figured out! I hope it's not a big issue. :confused:
 
The IAC is responsible for idle quality so it shouldn't be much of an issue. Why don't you list your buicks mods in your signature. It will help answer questions you may have in the future. HTH
 
The IAC is responsible for idle quality so it shouldn't be much of an issue. Why don't you list your buicks mods in your signature. It will help answer questions you may have in the future. HTH


It idles fine, so I guess I won't worry about it. Thanks for the help.
 
It's idling too high... the iac is trying to reduce the idle that is commanded by the chip, but is at the limit of it's adjustment, hence iac=00.... from your numbers it looks like the throttle blade is cracked too far open at idle....(the blms are fine, even pulling a bit of fuel, so a vac leak is unlikely)... go to the linked vortex buick site and perform the iac/tps adjustment dance and it will idle at the correct rpm and better.... you DO want things adjusted correctly, before you start 'turning it up'......right??? :)
 
AF 05 = mass Air Flow = 5 grams/sec... perfect
L8 38 = LV8 = a calculated load number, based on AF and TPS... as expected
Int 128 = short term fuel trim.... 128=nominal....not adjusting the blm (BL) at all... fine
Bl 122 = long term fuel trim... pulling a bit of fuel, close enough, and fine..
Ats 75 = intake Air Temp Sensor = 75 deg F
r 925 = rpm, a bit high
tps .44 = throttle position sensor voltage.... perfect, but will change when you do the iac adj... will need to re-adjust back to this number
IAC 00 = idle air control, closed to it's limit trying to lower rpm, do the adjustment procedure
cc 236 = o2 cross counts... should be cycling fairly rapidly fron 0-255-0-255, etc..

From your post that wot o2's are 820-830, it's a tiny bit fat, and the bl=122 reflects that... you could drop the fp a pound or 2 but i'd leave it there to start and watch the 02's as you GENTLY bump up the boost a pound or so at a time... looking for a wot 02 of 760 - 780 mv or so, ZERO knock retard (KR)... your not going to be able to go over 15-16 psi with 91 octane without knock ....it's real close, pending the iac adjustment... ready to turn up the wick a bit... :)

maybe that helps you some??
 
AF 05 = mass Air Flow = 5 grams/sec... perfect
L8 38 = LV8 = a calculated load number, based on AF and TPS... as expected
Int 128 = short term fuel trim.... 128=nominal....not adjusting the blm (BL) at all... fine
Bl 122 = long term fuel trim... pulling a bit of fuel, close enough, and fine..
Ats 75 = intake Air Temp Sensor = 75 deg F
r 925 = rpm, a bit high
tps .44 = throttle position sensor voltage.... perfect, but will change when you do the iac adj... will need to re-adjust back to this number
IAC 00 = idle air control, closed to it's limit trying to lower rpm, do the adjustment procedure
cc 236 = o2 cross counts... should be cycling fairly rapidly fron 0-255-0-255, etc..

From your post that wot o2's are 820-830, it's a tiny bit fat, and the bl=122 reflects that... you could drop the fp a pound or 2 but i'd leave it there to start and watch the 02's as you GENTLY bump up the boost a pound or so at a time... looking for a wot 02 of 760 - 780 mv or so, ZERO knock retard (KR)... your not going to be able to go over 15-16 psi with 91 octane without knock ....it's real close, pending the iac adjustment... ready to turn up the wick a bit... :)

maybe that helps you some??

Exactly what I am looking for! Thanks!

I did a WOT 3rd gear test, 02 Mv were ~760 with 1.3 KR on 14psi.

I am getting some false knock at the top of 1st gear I think it might be the exhaust rattling. The stock hanger for the cat is toast.
 
I believe the IAC needs to be between 15-25 when the car is in park,with the engine fully warmed up and A/C off.To raise the IAC you need to close the throttle body blade by turning the adjustment screw on the top left hand side of the throttle body counterclockwise .The more you close the blade the higher the IAC count is to maintain idle,after each adjustment you need to turn the car off and restart to reset the IAC.Remember turning the adjustment screw clockwise will lower IAC,turning it counterclockwise will raise IAC.The rest of your readings look good.Good luck ,ikle.
 
I believe the IAC needs to be between 15-25 when the car is in park,with the engine fully warmed up and A/C off.To raise the IAC you need to close the throttle body blade by turning the adjustment screw on the top left hand side of the throttle body counterclockwise .The more you close the blade the higher the IAC count is to maintain idle,after each adjustment you need to turn the car off and restart to reset the IAC.Remember turning the adjustment screw clockwise will lower IAC,turning it counterclockwise will raise IAC.The rest of your readings look good.Good luck ,ikle.

and note that as you turn the throttle blade stop, this will be changing the closed throttle tps voltage.... so once you get the iac to start coming up, you will need to re-adjust the tps sensor back to the correct setting (0.42-0.44).... it's an iterative process and can take a couple times thru the procedure, thus I term it the iac/tps 'dance'....:cool:
 
I got it fixed, the IAC is ~18 at a warm idle, and readjusted the TPS to .44. It idles great at ~875rpm.

Thanks for the help everybody!
 
Good deal! :cool: From your earlier post, you are about at the limit with the crappy gas.... 760 mv O2, 1.3 KR... If I remember right(?) you are going to swap to a TT chip and 60's? Once you do that, you may be able to get a bit more out of it by playing with the chip wot fuel/timing... sounds like it's tuned pretty good now, though!! Good job...:)
 
Good deal! :cool: From your earlier post, you are about at the limit with the crappy gas.... 760 mv O2, 1.3 KR... If I remember right(?) you are going to swap to a TT chip and 60's? Once you do that, you may be able to get a bit more out of it by playing with the chip wot fuel/timing... sounds like it's tuned pretty good now, though!! Good job...:)

Yep, however I can't decide on what to get next the Injectors and chip or the dowpipe.:confused:

I am trying my best to get it all tuned right to get the most out of it that I can. However I am a little disappointed with it as it sits. It is pretty fast, I guess I am just too used how my racecar feels.
 
injector/TTchip first.... will run way better overall... you'll be amazed!! :cool: Downpipe will help a little, with your limited mods, but not as much as the chip in the big picture...
 
+1 on the chip/injectors. I'm starting to think you're probably not going to be satisfied til you get alky. Once that Te44 is turned up and pumping out 24lbs the car will feel as though it lost 500 pounds.:biggrin:
 
+1 on the chip/injectors. I'm starting to think you're probably not going to be satisfied til you get alky. Once that Te44 is turned up and pumping out 24lbs the car will feel as though it lost 500 pounds.:biggrin:

Haha, I was actually thinking about alky :biggrin:. I am getting some money soon, so hopefully I can get the downpipe, and the injectors upgraded at once.
 
just my 2 cents worth. but I wouldn't worry about the downpipe just yet. Put that money towards an alky kit. A downpipe can't match the horsepower you'll get from turning up the boost and the additional timing you can run.
 
just my 2 cents worth. but I wouldn't worry about the downpipe just yet. Put that money towards an alky kit. A downpipe can't match the horsepower you'll get from turning up the boost and the additional timing you can run.

What kit would you suggest getting?
 
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