my build list. complete?? advice, please.

[kaj]

what i purchased: 1985 GN
my background: lots of tuning of OBD-I and OBD-II hondas as well as Mitsubishi Evolutions. a bit of tuning/tinkering with a a '95/351c.i. Mustang Cobra using AEM.
why i'm posting this: i have no clue WTF i'm doing with this car.

anyway.. here are the parts i plan to install. my goal is to have a custom tune. i have never trusted nor liked the mail-in tuning chips. they are only a "guestimate" and, as such, have to be very conservative to a point of sometimes running pig rich. yes, i realize nearly every common combination of builds has been done.. but still. nothing like a complete, personal tune. i figure with it, i can make safe power, pass smog, and enjoy a long, healthy life with my GN. LOL

parts:
complete '87 change-over. my block and heads are supposedly all refreshed, but i will be swapping everything else from the air filter to the crossover pipe. intake/turbo/exh manifolds/etc. you name it. '87 ecu and harness. the works.

(edited per board member recommendations)
3.5" LS1 MAF
MAF Translator Pro
Casper's plug-n-play MAF harness
PLX wideband
Extender Pro chip
60# high-impedance injectors
Walbro in-tank pump with hot-wire
OEM IC with Dutt neck or perhaps a FMIC setup that i'm looking at.
NO meth
my trusty, dusty lap top.

so.. am i missing anything? from all i've read here. i think i have everything lined up and ready to go.

this is quite a bit of cash, so i want to be sure i have a complete list and nothing is redundant, before i start tossing money at my car. LOL. i'm not looking for a 10-sec car, or anything. i'd be happy with 12s or 11s, if i could.

any help would be appreciated. thanks!

 

[HelloBozos]

You'll need better intank fuel pump an hot wire kit to flow those 72's,if your only building stock block an heads an don't want 10's go with 50's or 60's at the most on injectors,you'll have better streetiablity ,72's require ECM modification as well,Add meth/alchol kit to your list , you'll be Happy

 

[TurboDave]

X2 ! But go to a 3.5" LS1 MAF instead.

 

[kaj]

You'll need better intank fuel pump an hot wire kit to flow those 72's,if your only building stock block an heads an don't want 10's go with 50's or 60's at the most on injectors,you'll have better streetiablity ,72's require ECM modification as well,Add meth/alchol kit to your list , you'll be Happy

yes, i forgot to add the fuel pump and hot wire kit. i'll edit my OP. thank you. i'd also prefer to use the smallest injectors i can get away with. in my experience, the larger the injector, the worse they idle and respond at low RPM. i was TRYING to find 55#, but they seem to all be disappearing. LOL.

as for meth.. i blew up an engine when a reservoir leaked and went dry. i'm going to avoid meth at ALL costs. even it means running 12 as opposed to 11s.

jason

 

[87_we4]

Better add a adjustable fuel pressure regulator

 

[Pronto]

12-11s
Regular Translator and MAF of choice.
TT 6.0 chip and AEM O2 from Eric. His chips are very, very close and they are adjustable.
Powerlogger
Dut neck intercooler
60 lb injectors
Walbro 340+hotwire
Alkycontrol
TA49
Pats 2800 stall 12" converter
MT drag radials
Get it running after that and then the fun begins.

 

[TurboDave]

You can have a fairly decent running machine without meth. I certainly do. I have few mods on my otherwise stock block/heads, and with race gas was running mid 11's. Now that I don't race anymore, the car runs solid mid 12's in 100% street trim and street tires (not DOT's).
I also am able to run easy 20# of boost with no meth.(93 octane) Lotta guys don't believe it,(CA guys can't on their gas) but with the right tune it's easy.

 

[HelloBozos]

These new meth kits for GN's have low level light,as well as Green in operaion light, with cool feature of Test button on the controller, there pretty fail prove, only thing i ever heard was the first pumps that came out corrorded an failed, but that's been fixed now,

Enjoy!

 

[Pronto]

as for meth.. i blew up an engine when a reservoir leaked and went dry. i'm going to avoid meth at ALL costs. even it means running 12 as opposed to 11s.

jason

Ya well if your running boost any glitch with blow it up regardless of alky or not. Probably was a low quality competator of Alkycontrol.

 

[kaj]

great replies, guys!

i was kinda hoping to not mess with stalls.. i'd like to mess with the locals at the auto-x track.

i'll be putting in a full DSE suspenion kit front and rear. i guess i should have said that in the beginning. LOL

i'll revise my previous statement: i'd like enough POWER to run 12s. maybe 11s. i realize i will be limited on launching the car due to my transmission/wheel/tire/suspension combo.

 

[kaj]

i've used SMC and Snow Performance kits. the Snow kit is the one that failed on me. it was pretty limited, at the time, to fail-safes.

i'll consider it.. but i think i'll stick with pump gas. i'd like to keep things as simple as possible (relatively). i got tired of buying/storing/mixing meth.. making sure i had enough, blah blah.

ill stick with my pump gas and settle for a "quick" car. that's totally fine with me. i had a honda that ran 12.2 on drag radials with a nasty 2.1 60'. it was plenty of fun around town. i can be happy with a mid-12 car.



anyone know where i can get a Dut-neckified intercooler? or better yet, a nice, fairly-priced FMIC kit with tubing, couplings, and t-clamps?

 

[HelloBozos]

i've used SMC and Snow Performance kits. the Snow kit is the one that failed on me. it was pretty limited, at the time, to fail-safes.

i'll consider it.. but i think i'll stick with pump gas. i'd like to keep things as simple as possible (relatively). i got tired of buying/storing/mixing meth.. making sure i had enough, blah blah.

ill stick with my pump gas and settle for a "quick" car. that's totally fine with me. i had a honda that ran 12.2 on drag radials with a nasty 2.1 60'. it was plenty of fun around town. i can be happy with a mid-12 car.



anyone know where i can get a Dut-neckified intercooler? or better yet, a nice, fairly-priced FMIC kit with tubing, couplings, and t-clamps?

One last poke at you on Meth, it's $23 for 5 gallons at any speedshop,i keep mine in racing 5 gallon jug,5 gallons will last you Months..but enough that, be sure you do your whole fuel system, fueltank to injectors,the rest your power will be in the boost you add 8^)

Enjoy!

 

[kaj]

Aw. Now I gotta do a fuel cell too? LOL.

My edit button seems to have disappeared. It seems.3.5" MAF is not needed if I install a 3BAR MAP and relocate my IAT sensor. Done. I never liked MAF anyway.
I am thinking to do a moded Ecu with 72# injectors in case I need the fuel later.... but I realize that is an extra cost I don't need to incur at this time.
Probably cheaper to buy new 55s than used 72s and a $200 molded Ecu. Sorry. I think its an ECM in the Buick world

I also may do an LC-1 wideband cause I found one used with a boost controller option? Still working out the details.

 

[RIFF RAFF]

Dude

Ive stalked this site for about ten years now and it seems to me all the ricers that come here have to do everything wrong , spend alot of money, fail and go back to rice mobiles . So lets slow down and listen so you get it right the first time .go back and read the posts in this tread your getting some good advice . And what did scott tell you the other day? Did you pm him or what? Alot of things your trying to do you dont need to reach your goals and farther . Some thing to think about before you spend a chit load of money and still don't have a car that runs right .take a breath. Welcome to the darkside !!

 

[Pronto]

60lb injectors don't require a modded computer which are not done now anyways. They will carry you into the 10s and should be all you need unless your plan on E85 for fuel. BTW, chips have brought TBs into the 9s. You can run a internal gate dp and use an adjustable actuator to control boost. Never seen an LC1 that controled boost, they are just a wideband, at least the POS one I had before my Af/x was. You'll need a 3 bar MAP if you run alky. The 2 bar is for the stupid dash boost gauge and only that. No need to change if you don't do alky.

 

[kaj]

Ive stalked this site for about ten years now and it seems to me all the ricers that come here have to do everything wrong , spend alot of money, fail and go back to rice mobiles . So lets slow down and listen so you get it right the first time .go back and read the posts in this tread your getting some good advice . And what did scott tell you the other day? Did you pm him or what? Alot of things your trying to do you dont need to reach your goals and farther . Some thing to think about before you spend a chit load of money and still don't have a car that runs right .take a breath. Welcome to the darkside !!

I am taking a breath so I can reply to you in a calm, cool, and collected fashion. First off, you can keep the ricer comments to yourself. In case you haven't noticed, GENIUS, I am taking all info into consideration. I want to do this right without wasting time on things I don't need but at the same time not cut corners, all while keeping the car as reliable as possible. Hence all my posts and PMs to people while I figure this out.
Id appreciate your not talking to me like I'm some pimple-faced 18yr old kid who bought his car after watching Fast and furious too many times. You dont know anything about me, nor what I have built In the past. I have been talking to and PMing SO many people. I'm sure I've talked to a scott, a dave, an Aaron or two. Lots of people and all with their own opinions of what is best. how am I supposed to know who is right? Not to mention they are all trying to sell me what they have.. so of COURSE its the best way to go. But, I'm just a ricer. All I want Is a blow off valve. Amirite??? And thank you for the welcome. This car is opposite of my last in so many ways (even color) and I'm super stoked to be trying something new!

Anyway.. Now, back to those that are trying to help:
Please keep the ideas coming. Sooner or later, with all your help, ill be able to piece together what I need to do. I still have a week before the car is delivered.

 

[RIFF RAFF]

Man

Im just saying you sound like a kid at christmas that cant figure out witch toy he will play with first .and when you go off like that you sure sound like my pimple face 18 y/o son .all i was trying to say is slow down the help is here . Andd my freind scott was not trying to sell you anything .you posted on his for sale tread with a ? About your car .and he kind enough to ask you too pm him for answers. So sorry .ill beat you later at the track .thanks

 

[kaj]

60lb injectors don't require a modded computer which are not done now anyways. They will carry you into the 10s and should be all you need unless your plan on E85 for fuel. BTW, chips have brought TBs into the 9s. You can run a internal gate dp and use an adjustable actuator to control boost. Never seen an LC1 that controled boost, they are just a wideband, at least the POS one I had before my Af/x was. You'll need a 3 bar MAP if you run alky. The 2 bar is for the stupid dash boost gauge and only that. No need to change if you don't do alky.

Noted thank you. 60#. Check. I've already been scoping them out. Hard to find used so will probaboy go new.
NO Meth. Ever. Absolutely not.
I mistyped the boost controller comment. The MAF-T pro would have handled that.
So what type/stand of actuator is best to control boost? Just any boost controller of my choice? I'm assuming I bypass the oem solenoid and use the EBCs? Or will a MBC suffice?
If I don't use the MAF-T PRO, then I can use any wideband I want, seeing how I wont be using the output signal for tuning.

Am I on the right track?

 

[87_we4]

If you do the wideband with a turbo tweak6.0 chip it will tune to your desired af. The first things you need to do is fuel pump, hot-wire, adj regulator,60# injectors, scanmaster. Then from there upgrade

 

[Pronto]

Run the stock ecm, keep the stock boost soleniod and use the adjustable rod on the actuator to dial in the boost. I run the Boost Commander for adjusting the boost. It's nice to just turn a knob.