I'm having a set of 28x11.5-15 MT ET streets mounted and had a few questions. What kind of burnout do these tires usually require to get good and hot? How much air pressure? Are tubes or screws necessary? I'm used to running Nittos so any input on racing with the et streets is appreciated.
MT ET Streets Q and A
- Thread starter Darklord
- Start date
N
NOSjohnWE4
Guest
answers
dark-
straight from Mickey Thompson tech.
1) Q: Do I have to run tubes in my slicks?
A: You should run tubes in any tube type tire. Tube type tires will leak air through the sidewalls. As pressure drops, heat increases and the chance of tire damage or failure is increased. Tubes will also aid in absorbing some of this heat.
(**i don't use tubes on my car, weight reasons, but i'm CONSTANTLY checking tire pressure.**)
2) Q: Should I use rim screws with Mickey Thompson slicks?
A: Starting line launches can cause the rim to spin inside the tire. This can be hazardous and should be avoided. If you are not sure your rim is doing this, mark the tire and wheel with a line to gauge tire slippage on the wheel. Check for tire slippage when you check your tire pressure after each pass. If it moves ½" to 1", you should use rim screws.
(***in my opinion, if you are going faster then a 13.0, you should have them. my monte does 12.80 consistant and i notice every once in a while on a hard launch [1.76 60 foot normally] my tire moves about 1/4 of an inch.***)
3) Q: How much air pressure should I run in my Mickey Thompson slicks?
A: Tire size and vehicle weight are important considerations when determining air pressure. Consult the Mickey Thompson tech bulletin #3 for the appropriate answer.
(****basically, the heavier the car, the more pressure is needed. in your case, minimum should be no less than 12psi. 11 and 12 psi work GREAT on my Monte****)
4) Q: What kind of burnout is recommended with Mickey Thompson slicks?
A: 1. Automatic transmissions: 1st pass or two, do a fairly hard burnout. After that a light burnout should be sufficient.
2. Standard transmissions: -Stockers- No burnout or short, dry burnout is sufficient. Super Stock or Comp cars- light burnout, haze tires and stage immediately. Generally, tires work better with a light burnout, rather than a hard burnout. This also increases tire life.
Note: ET Street™ tires may require a fairly hard burnout on the 1st and 2nd pass to break in.
Note: For more information on M/T slicks please consult M/T Tech bulletin # 1.
here is the webiste: http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/drag/damfaq.html
WHEW!!
dark-
straight from Mickey Thompson tech.
1) Q: Do I have to run tubes in my slicks?
A: You should run tubes in any tube type tire. Tube type tires will leak air through the sidewalls. As pressure drops, heat increases and the chance of tire damage or failure is increased. Tubes will also aid in absorbing some of this heat.
(**i don't use tubes on my car, weight reasons, but i'm CONSTANTLY checking tire pressure.**)
2) Q: Should I use rim screws with Mickey Thompson slicks?
A: Starting line launches can cause the rim to spin inside the tire. This can be hazardous and should be avoided. If you are not sure your rim is doing this, mark the tire and wheel with a line to gauge tire slippage on the wheel. Check for tire slippage when you check your tire pressure after each pass. If it moves ½" to 1", you should use rim screws.
(***in my opinion, if you are going faster then a 13.0, you should have them. my monte does 12.80 consistant and i notice every once in a while on a hard launch [1.76 60 foot normally] my tire moves about 1/4 of an inch.***)
3) Q: How much air pressure should I run in my Mickey Thompson slicks?
A: Tire size and vehicle weight are important considerations when determining air pressure. Consult the Mickey Thompson tech bulletin #3 for the appropriate answer.
(****basically, the heavier the car, the more pressure is needed. in your case, minimum should be no less than 12psi. 11 and 12 psi work GREAT on my Monte****)
4) Q: What kind of burnout is recommended with Mickey Thompson slicks?
A: 1. Automatic transmissions: 1st pass or two, do a fairly hard burnout. After that a light burnout should be sufficient.
2. Standard transmissions: -Stockers- No burnout or short, dry burnout is sufficient. Super Stock or Comp cars- light burnout, haze tires and stage immediately. Generally, tires work better with a light burnout, rather than a hard burnout. This also increases tire life.
Note: ET Street™ tires may require a fairly hard burnout on the 1st and 2nd pass to break in.
Note: For more information on M/T slicks please consult M/T Tech bulletin # 1.
here is the webiste: http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/drag/damfaq.html
WHEW!!
Thanks for the info and the MT website John. That helps me a lot. By the way, are the Et streets fairly safe on the street? Obviously, I don't plan to use them as an everyday tire but I've got about a 60 mile ride to the track. It would be a lot easier if I could mount em up before I leave the house. How do they wear with racing and a bit of highway driving thrown in?
N
NOSjohnWE4
Guest
tires
dark,
the street ET's, i believe have grooves for more street racing. they are still made of a very soft compound so driving on the street AND racing will wear them faster. i would NOT trust them if you plan to drive in or get caught in the rain. this can be a scary ride!! trust me, i have first hand experience. certainly, they will last longer than slicks if you were to use them for dual duty. i know people who drive on these too. ah, i've done it once, who hasn't? i hope i answered all your questions. later...
dark,
the street ET's, i believe have grooves for more street racing. they are still made of a very soft compound so driving on the street AND racing will wear them faster. i would NOT trust them if you plan to drive in or get caught in the rain. this can be a scary ride!! trust me, i have first hand experience.
certainly, they will last longer than slicks if you were to use them for dual duty. i know people who drive on these too. ah, i've done it once, who hasn't? i hope i answered all your questions. later...I ran ET Streets as my "street" tire for a while....a short while, because they wore out very quickly.....they are crap for handling (bias ply and soft sidewall)... to just drive to the track & back, they are ok, but you'll wear 'em out in maybe 2500 miles of road/track time
do not bother with tubes or screws unless you can 60' in the 1.6's or better.......mark 'em and see if they turn....if you DO use tubes, by all means use rim screws.....not fun to break the valve stem off your tubes.....
IMHO, run drag radials on the road and "real" slicks at the track.....won't cost anymore than trying to use the ET's as street tires (a set of ET Drags should last 60-100 runs or better...they need very little burn out)
do not bother with tubes or screws unless you can 60' in the 1.6's or better.......mark 'em and see if they turn....if you DO use tubes, by all means use rim screws.....not fun to break the valve stem off your tubes.....
IMHO, run drag radials on the road and "real" slicks at the track.....won't cost anymore than trying to use the ET's as street tires (a set of ET Drags should last 60-100 runs or better...they need very little burn out)
N
needboost
Guest
i'm a huge huge fan of micky tompson tires.
as for the burnout question do just what the q&a said. when they say hard they mean HARD! when you dont use them for a while another hard one.
and for the air pressure question i'd try about 15 psi till they come around.
i'm doing et/streets for my gn. how does everyone like them?
as for the burnout question do just what the q&a said. when they say hard they mean HARD! when you dont use them for a while another hard one.
and for the air pressure question i'd try about 15 psi till they come around.
i'm doing et/streets for my gn. how does everyone like them?
how are the rim screws supposed to be installed? No info found at the M/T website.
I assume you must first remove all screws before mounting & demounting a tire?
do screws go only on 1 side of the wheel, or both?
do you install screws and then inflate, or inflate first and then put in screws ?
how far must the screws dig into the tire? just a wee bit of sharp tip to grab the tire? or more?
Surely you don't want to risk having the screw tip penetrate the tire bead completely & puncture the inner tube, or have the tire fail at high speed.
I assume you must first remove all screws before mounting & demounting a tire?
do screws go only on 1 side of the wheel, or both?
do you install screws and then inflate, or inflate first and then put in screws ?
how far must the screws dig into the tire? just a wee bit of sharp tip to grab the tire? or more?
Surely you don't want to risk having the screw tip penetrate the tire bead completely & puncture the inner tube, or have the tire fail at high speed.
Buy screws specifically designed as rim screws...they are grade 8 self tapping and any speed shop, Jegs, Summit has 'em
they go on both sides
tire must be mounted and inflated (drill the holes with the tires off)
you won't penetrate thru the bead, but well into it
depending how hard you launch would determine how many screws (I use 4 on each side and run low 1.5 60'...)
they go on both sides
tire must be mounted and inflated (drill the holes with the tires off)
you won't penetrate thru the bead, but well into it
depending how hard you launch would determine how many screws (I use 4 on each side and run low 1.5 60'...)
4
4cd-Air
Guest
I am currently running ET Streets as my street/strip/rain/shine/clouds/cold/hot/everyday tire. DON'T DO THIS!! Learn from me!!! When they say no rain driving, they meen no rain driving! I have driven in the rain twice because I had no choice, and it is nearly impossible to keep the car straight on a wet road, let alone in the falling rain. On the strip, I was dissappointed with their performance. I spun a rod bearing when they broke loose boosting from 10-25 psi. Couldn't hear it, didn't feel it. I need a pair of wide rims with some real slicks for the track that I can swith with my streets when I get there, and regular street tires for the street. Plus I live on a VERY twisty road, so the cornering is not all that good. If you street race a lot (which is not a good idea, just my opinion) thses are good tires to switch too on race night.
Hope that helps.
Shane
Hope that helps.
Shane
