Most reliable roller cam setup.

I run a 208/208 erson ft cam right now with lazy lobes and 75lb springs. It works great even at 30psi, but I only spin 5k now but will spin more with the new setup. With very little port matching of the intake to the heads and this cam, I picked up 40hp to the wheels all else equal.

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Thanks, that's good to know. I have an isky with about 100mi on it. Had second thoughts if I should have went with a roller. I still may later, but not going to fix what's not broken. Hope that brand is ok.
A person should be on this forum long before he buys a GN!
 
By that do you mean you are running a flat tappet cam?
When he says old school,he's talking about the shape of the roller cam lobes. More specifically,he is talking about how fast the lifter is moved upward to max lift and downward from max lift. The faster we open and close the valves the more time the valve spends in the higher lift area of the cam. This makes more power like adding duration would without the loss of low end power. It also creates more stress and requires more spring pressure to stop the lifter from bouncing. He's advocating the use of slower ramps and giving up the small amount of extra power that fast ramps produce in favor of longevity.
 
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When he says old school,he's talking about the shape of the roller cam lobes. More specifically,he is talking about how fast the lifter is moved upward to max lift and downward from max lift. The faster we open and close the valves the more time the valve spends in the higher lift area of the came. This makes more power like adding duration would without the loss of low end power. It also creates more stress and requires more spring pressure to stop the lifter from bouncing. He's advocating the use of slower ramps and giving up the small amount of extra power that fast ramps produce in favor of longevity.
Got it.
 
With your goals in mind you should be good with a mild roller and the PAC springs. I went 10.40's @131 years ago in a full wieght car with a 208/208 FTS flat tappet cam with home ported heads and a bone stock intake, TB and MAF and a TE-45a. IMO these cars don't need a lot of cam to go fast-I beleive there is power in upgrading to a better cam but I don't think its required to run 10's.
 
With your goals in mind you should be good with a mild roller and the PAC springs. I went 10.40's @131 years ago in a full wieght car with a 208/208 FTS flat tappet cam with home ported heads and a bone stock intake, TB and MAF and a TE-45a. IMO these cars don't need a lot of cam to go fast-I beleive there is power in upgrading to a better cam but I don't think its required to run 10's.

Thanks for the info. Makes sense.

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You will get different answers from engine builders vs racers. Kinda like chip burners vs engine builders concerning timing advance in the chip...just a example.

Starting my new build real soon. I'm keeping my smaller DLS 210/210 quiet roller/Morel. That is a smaller part of the equation.

Concentrating more on the heads... This is where the power comes from. Keeping PAC 1201(replacing with new).

* Really really good set of HEADS, smaller roller cam with the right spring and let the BOOST do it's thing.

Joe
 
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