miss on number 6

J

justamatt

Member
Joined
May 15, 2007
Little background just had an aparently half assed rebuild done about 5-10k miles ago and have been chaseing an oil burning issue and the machinist had put the umbrella seals that came with the new cam from comp in and they were riding up the valve guide so i replaced them with felpro's this caused it to smoke like a hell then i thought it could be the .1 shims i had to put in to get the proper preload (Stock TTA Rockers). so i installed .1 shorter rods and removed the shims this seems to have fixed the oil issue. But now she runs like crap so i had some exhaust leaks welded up, blms are better but but still misses, iac was a little high adjusted that and tps started pulling plugs and no change in idle when you pull number 6, I then checked the injector with a noid light it flashes so i assume its a bad injector 42# 009's. I wanted to go bigger any way so i order some 60# and a chip from eric but still no fix. replaced number 6 plug and still no fix the new plug is lightly caked black and oh btw the exhaust now reeks of fuel and im at a dead end any suggestions??

TIA
 
little more info might help
ive replaced some of the ignition system and was all working just fine till i changed the valve seals and push rods. new accel coil pack new ignition module new plugs and wires all done with the rebuild.

additionally it seems to cut and buck when in 3rd and 4th gear at 1500 rpm just trying to cruise and when braking

so anybody have any ideas???
 
It has to be a mechanical problem with #6 (OR bad plug wire). I would leakdown test it and go from there, OR swap the wire to another cylinder and see if it kills that one too. Oh BTW if a noid light is flashing it shows that you have power and ground to the injector, and that the computer is turning the injectors on and off.
 
Well at the verry least i can do a compression test i changed the rest of the plugs, and ohm'ed the wires of coarse it made no difference then i pulled the vale cover and the intake valve was open dont know if that means anything

so you think it could be bad valve?
there doesnt seem to be any blowby so i think the rings are good

I am beging to wonder if an ignition module could just be way off timing with one cylander or if it could be the waste spark that im seeing and it not being hot enough to ignite all the fuel in the chamber??
 
justamatt said:
Well at the verry least i can do a compression test i changed the rest of the plugs, and ohm'ed the wires of coarse it made no difference then i pulled the vale cover and the intake valve was open dont know if that means anything

so you think it could be bad valve?
there doesnt seem to be any blowby so i think the rings are good
Click to expand...

Could be a bad valve or its not closing. If you do a compression test it will be low. I would try and put compressed air into the cylinder and listen where its comming out of. It seems like there might be a problem with your valvetrain if you had to use shims and change pushrods. Also "Half-Ass" rebuilds dont usually last that long :rolleyes:. Do you have adjustable rockers? Is it a roller cam or flat-tappet?
 
comp cams 206/206 roller lifter cam stock heads with non-adjustable rocker arms. TTA's dont seem to have many options for the heads :(

ill do the compression check tonight and put some air in it but when i was doing the seals all the cylanders did hold air. But i think one did take longer than the others hold hmm didnt think anything of it at the time :confused:
 
justamatt said:
well 160# on number 4 and 30# on number 6.... sooooo is it time to pull the head?
Click to expand...

I would leak down test it. You use shop air to pressurize the cylinder, and listen if it is comming out the intake or exhaust. They have to make adjustable rockers for the TTA's right??? I wouldnt pull the head unless it was a last resort, do the leakdown test and pinpoint it before you pull the head.
 
well i dont have the right gauges for a leak down but i pressurized it and ican only hear it at the oil fill hole in the valve cover any options besides another re-build
 
If you hear it comming out the oil fill its the rings, HG, or cracked piston. Is it burning coolant?
 
yeah ithink so kind of intermittent ithought it was fuel but after checking it today it looks steam could stopleak do the trick?
 
Stop leak isnt going to put 100psi of compression back in the cylinder, I think its time to open the engine up.
 
Did the machinists cut the heads? If so..did he cut the intake to match it? I've chased a similar issue and that was my problem.
 
Yeah that was a stupid question Im just really hacked off that i have to open it back up again. As for the possiblity of an intake leak ive already ruled that out when i pulled the intake chasing the oil burning problem and it was fine what are the odds that the piston takes a dump at the same time i solve the oil issue:mad:

MESSAGE TO THE MASSESS DOUBLE CHECK OTHER PEOPLE'S WORK EVERY DAMN TIME PERIOD EVEN IF THEY "PROMISE"
 
No updates I have begun to ponder however did the cylander need to be at TDC for me to find the leak source? All i did was loosen the rockers so that they would affect the valves and put air to it so as to listen for the leak? the compression check was done with the motor warm so that was done right

All im doing now is building the most damn detailed list i can to present to the machine shop on what i want so that there isnt any mistakes this time. Im probably going to let the shop take the motor out i dont have enough time now to play with it. So when that happens in a few weeks ill take my camera and see what we find.
 
It should be at TDC when the test is performed. Cylinders have a taper to them in most cases so to get an accurate reading it needs to be at TDC. You can also put about 3 squirts of oil in the cylinder and see if that seals up the rings or not.
 
Came down with H1N1 Tuesday :mad: but i also talked to the machinist and he wanted me switch the rods back on number 6 and sure enough with 8.2 rods and .110 shims on the pedestals the compression went to 150 :confused:
the rods i had in there were 8.1 with no shims
 
".1 shims i had to put in to get the proper preload (Stock TTA Rockers). so i installed .1 shorter rods and removed the shims".
I'd "start over" on the valvetrain setup. How would swapping p rods/shims cure the "oil burning"?
 
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