Maybe buying stock 1986 T-Type with 19K

[eagleguy]

Can you guys provide me with a list of things needed in 2015 to make a stock 86 T-Type with 19K more reliable. I am not looking to create anything other than a reliable car to take to car shows and hold onto for many years. The car has absolutely NO add-ons or modifications. Stock everything!

Thanks

Steve

 

[Gene Van Horn]

If thats all you want it for just leave it the way it is,100 percent stock car is hard to find.

 

[eagleguy]

Are there any issues with paint on the 86 like there were in 87?
Is a 87 Turbo-T better in any way? I like the T-Type emblems vs. the "T" but in no way is it a deal breaker.

 

[3-5.0]

I' do that 12 sec recipe thing-I think it's on GNT-Type.org. Make your car run faster and more reliable and you can easily change it back. Scanmaster, fuel pump, hot wire kit, FP regulator and gauge, air filter, LT1 MAF, exhaust/down pipe...I don't know what I'm forgetting...just tune up stuff. DS header most likely will crack. You end up having a few extra parts on hand to keep it running anyway.

 

[t-typinator]

Can you guys provide me with a list of things needed in 2015 to make a stock 86 T-Type with 19K more reliable. I am not looking to create anything other than a reliable car to take to car shows and hold onto for many years. The car has absolutely NO add-ons or modifications. Stock everything!

Thanks

Steve

Leave it exactly like it is.
Deal with any reliability issues if and when they arise.
With possibly the exception of a hotwire to the fuel pump to help with good fuel delivery.
It's easy enough to install and hide and really doesn't take from originality, and is easily removed if desired in years to come.

 

[eagleguy]

Any idea what this car should go for being mint ,original owner, paint and fully optioned including T-tops? Car is black with gray interior, not a WH1

 

[GNRick]

$16-$18k assuming no rust, good paint, g80 posi, working a/c....would be $18-$20k if hardtop.

 

[V6sleeper]

Leave it exactly like it is.
Deal with any reliability issues if and when they arise.
With possibly the exception of a hotwire to the fuel pump to help with good fuel delivery.
It's easy enough to install and hide and really doesn't take from originality, and is easily removed if desired in years to come.

Listen to This^^^^^^^

 

[1952ray]

Listen to This^^^^^^^

I do agree with this,however I would get a new chip.

 

[BobbyBuick]

if you have a car that is that virgin.it would be best to change the fuel filter ,spark plugs,oil,Transmission fluid,brake fluid,and rearend fluid .put air in The Tires and detail it out.will probably need a headliner, visors, and bumper fillers also.thats it .It is a time capsule and will be worth much,much more in that condition in the near future

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

My first chip was an ATR pit bull street chip, much better cold start characteristics and 25 mpg on the highway.
I can only imagine what the new chips can do.

 

[eagleguy]

Thanks,

Car is supposed to be like off the showroom floor but I have heard that before only to be disappointed. The asking price is $22K which is high but the owner is open to offers. I like the fact that the mileage is very low and that the car has not yet been modified. Right now I am waiting on additional photos and RPO information.
I still favor the WH1!

 

[3-5.0]

IMHumbleO there is a reason why so many of these cars have super low miles...(allegedly real ones not messed with odometers), and it's not because people were thinking they'd be future collectables or Sunday drivers. Not saying all of them either just something to think about.

I have super low mile car and stuff had to be changed, 02 sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack (ended up being a backup until I got a scanmaster to figure out gremlins, DS header, fuel filter, spark plugs, etc. again, not saying this will be the case.

 

[eagleguy]

I am assuming since everything is allegedly as 1986 I will run into some maintenance issues and have no problem with that. I also see there are many high mileage deals out there on some very nice cars . However, as a novice with this kind of car I would rather start stock with a low mileage car and learn as I go along. Is that a wise choice? My other concern is can a 1986 vehicle have no defects with the original paint?
In the end it comes down to that I just sold my 71 GS as it was driving me nuts with reliability issues. At 53 I want something that will be fun to play with and last me for a long time as I do NOT constantly swap out cars like many due. I am willing to pay a little more to have a chance of getting that "really nice" car but do not want to overpay for anything and do believe 23K is a bit much. Am I wrong as its not a GS or a WH1?

 

[626gn]

Post photos when you get them along with whatever additional info you can get on the car.

 

[TexasT]

I would think the GS would be more easily made reliable, but who knows. If you plan to drive the 86, the above mentioned stuff like the fuel pump and hot wire will be needed. It will probably need a set of injectors and the driver side header repair. Trans might need some attention. Cooler and a shift improved kit as you plan to drive it. I would have a spare maf or translator and maf, a coil and module and fuel pump relay. The powermaster probably needs attention. I went to hydroboost but a vacuum swap or the use that you will be buying a powermaster should be on your mind.
Sounds like a fun adventure. I would have kept the GS. But each to his own.
Post some pix. I like the intercooled t-type badges too.

 

[gn.87]

Can you guys provide me with a list of things needed in 2015 to make a stock 86 T-Type with 19K more reliable. I am not looking to create anything other than a reliable car to take to car shows and hold onto for many years. The car has absolutely NO add-ons or modifications. Stock everything!

Thanks

Steve

To answer your question exactly as asked:
1) drop the tank and change the fuel pump and possibly the sending unit (they do go bad)
2) order a Turbo tweak chip (car will run much better)
3) replace the plugs and wires
4) check the brakes as the power master is a disaster. Mine just went out on a 9k mile car. I am in the process of changing to hydroboost
5) change the oil and use some zinc additive or use Valvoline VR1 Racing oil as it has some zinc in it. This will help save the cam from going bad.

 

[eagleguy]

Thanks