Max Rpm Stroker Motor
- Thread starter seeya v6
- Start date
Imo any hydraulic cam is small. Mild would be a small solid in the 230's with some overlap and large would be over 245. You have the correct combo for the street. You dont need a large cam to go fast.
:biggrin: Lol... I don't know I'd have to call Dom and ask him
I agree with Don.
My motor is easily streetable with a "big" cam. I rev to 7200 on the track, shifting on the street at 6200 is enough to destroy the tires in 3rd.
Talk to someone who builds ALOT of turbo motors, get the cam/TC matched and you'll be happy.
Yeah, Dan. What cam are you using??? Inquiring minds want to know. Give it up, playa.
You see, all the big playas keep their special cam specs secret and let everyone else play with the small stuff. That's how it is in real competition.
I should be ready for a match up soon with you Dan. Look forward to you and me getting it on. How's your ride doing?
Inquiring minds want to know. Give it up, playa.You see, all the big playas keep their special cam specs secret and let everyone else play with the small stuff. That's how it is in real competition.
I should be ready for a match up soon with you Dan. Look forward to you and me getting it on. How's your ride doing?
GARY HARVEY
Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
Cams
Turbo motor should be civilized. Low static compression, (modern) computer design etc.,
put a hat on street ability.
You think our history/memory returns for our street driving concerns, carbs (i do).
The S2 Buick power at Indy was civil (putting) around the pits and breaking the tires loose coming off turns 2/4 and spinning out when the pressure came up (Scotty Brayton) on the opening lap. I bet he was a little blow away!
Poor street ability... with a proper tune... nah. pc
Turbo motor should be civilized. Low static compression, (modern) computer design etc.,
put a hat on street ability.
You think our history/memory returns for our street driving concerns, carbs (i do).
The S2 Buick power at Indy was civil (putting) around the pits and breaking the tires loose coming off turns 2/4 and spinning out when the pressure came up (Scotty Brayton) on the opening lap. I bet he was a little blow away!
Poor street ability... with a proper tune... nah. pc
JDSfastGN
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2001
guys he stated he'd like to make the power at 6000, its not rocket science to do so... he is not trying to be a "big playa" lol. This is turned into a silly thread talking about how one guys stick is bigger than the other but nobody will give out the actual measurments so its all useless drivel. How much money is into the heads just to make them deal with the kind of lift ya'll are running? How many miles driven on the street would it take before the valve springs needed to be changed? With a stroked 4.1 I would think something in the 220+ range with .560 lift would be great for 6000, hell even a tad smaller in in the 215/220 range should not be dropping off in power substantially till 6000.
Ahh. You're no fun. I agree with your recommendations.
I still think you should take it out to the limit of what your hydraulic tappets will allow. Usually, 6,500 rpm.
????
Well said JDSFASTGN! Iam not looking for anything special,I know my setup should make 6,000 but it falls flat on its face at 5,700?Eveyone assumes that its the cam.My data log show fuel is ok, no knock. My converter was just loosend to match the newGT70 turbo (2600-2800 stall).Had this prob.with the old converter and turbo?The only thing I cant measure is EGT?
Well said JDSFASTGN! Iam not looking for anything special,I know my setup should make 6,000 but it falls flat on its face at 5,700?Eveyone assumes that its the cam.My data log show fuel is ok, no knock. My converter was just loosend to match the newGT70 turbo (2600-2800 stall).Had this prob.with the old converter and turbo?The only thing I cant measure is EGT?
kill joy!
I tried a couple 224/224 hyd rollers in one of my 3.8 builds. Some would make power to 6500, others dropped off quickly at ~5800. Ramp rates, advanced/retarded, LSA, etc... really make or break a cam. I would suggest going over the cam card with a knowledgeable engine builder and seeing if the cam is right for your RPM goal.
Don-- It's bigger then 240
The cars good! Did a complete redo over last summer, rewire, fuel system, motor, tranny, list goes on and on, pretty much everything. I don't think my little 70 turbo can keep up with you. Now if your thinking bracket race, its on!
I agree with this. 218 would get it done. LSA has a tremendous effect on low rpm function. More degrees will have better idle and low rpm quality but wont peak like more overlap will at higher rpm. 224 with 112 LSA or 224 with 108 LSA. Big difference and when the cam specs are based on 1.55 rockers and you are running a steeper ratio it could aggravate the problem if you want streetability.
Yes it will make a difference. The cam may have advance ground into it. That is why they supply a cam card
Hmmm. 240+. Some people are learning something. Sounds like you've got a fun ride there. You need a bigger turbo though.kill joy!
I tried a couple 224/224 hyd rollers in one of my 3.8 builds. Some would make power to 6500, others dropped off quickly at ~5800. Ramp rates, advanced/retarded, LSA, etc... really make or break a cam. I would suggest going over the cam card with a knowledgeable engine builder and seeing if the cam is right for your RPM goal.
Don-- It's bigger then 240
The cars good! Did a complete redo over last summer, rewire, fuel system, motor, tranny, list goes on and on, pretty much everything. I don't think my little 70 turbo can keep up with you. Now if your thinking bracket race, its on!
Bracket with a .400 pro light?
Give me some time to work the wrinkles out. What's your typical dial in? I'll tune for the same so we can have an exciting race.That's why I asked. If he has a cam with a 4 degree advance it would explain why he's having trouble getting to 6k. Check the cam card and see what it says as far as how it was ground. It could be a simple as this.