Does anyone know how to get ahold of Steve? I have an ecu that may be the source of all my troubles. I finally noticed when it cuts out, the ScanMaster shows values that don't make any sense. Verified with my OTC4000E. Battery will show 2 volts, Temp will show -40, MPH goes from whatever speed I am at to 6mph and jumps around, O2's will show 999. ECU literally feels like 300 degrees. Cannot touch it for a while after car shut off. Going to bring my laser thermometer home Monday and get an actual surface temp. I am going to pull ECU tomorrow and open up and look for anything suspect. I have checked all grounds, battery cables, connections/pins.
Max Effort V11.8
- Thread starter GNeric
- Start date
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
If your ECM is modded for the MAP input (and injector drivers if you have low-z injectors) then you'll have to have a new ECM modded the same way for the chip to work right. Let me know if you need help with that. I know we can add the MAP input, but I'll need to check into the injector drivers.
Yes the ecm is modded for map input and 83# injectors. 
With the situation of the ecu being at such a high temp that it could not be physically touched, I was instructed to get ahold of Bob Bailey and have him get into the unit. I do have an extra 148 ecm that I can have modded if this one is fried and may send them off together. In the meantime, I do have a set of 50# MSDs, MAF and a TT chip that I am going to throw into the car for a while until I get this sorted out. It was one small thing after another all at once with this car but I love the car and it is really fun to drive when it runs right, which was 98% of the time before this happened.
With the situation of the ecu being at such a high temp that it could not be physically touched, I was instructed to get ahold of Bob Bailey and have him get into the unit. I do have an extra 148 ecm that I can have modded if this one is fried and may send them off together. In the meantime, I do have a set of 50# MSDs, MAF and a TT chip that I am going to throw into the car for a while until I get this sorted out. It was one small thing after another all at once with this car but I love the car and it is really fun to drive when it runs right, which was 98% of the time before this happened.FOUND my problem and reason for ecm getting hot, bubbling my ignition module and all the weird readings on the ScanMaster and OTC. Internal problem in the negative battery cable. Passed ohm readings and continuity tests originally. Got it to stumble and act up in the garage. It was near where the passenger header is closest to it (3" away). Cable sheath is fine. Grabbed the cable while idling and it stumbled pretty bad. Repeated it to verify and yanked that puppy completely out. Cut it in pieces so I would never be tempted to use any part of it for any reason. Put in a monster 00 negative cable ($9.99), routed it a little further from header and secured to head. Every single symptom is gone. Car pulls very hard again and now I am ready to turn it up to 25psi and see what she does now. ME-R system back in with the 83#ers. Best the car has run so far was a 11.4@117 with 20 psi and there is more in it. :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
Thanks Steve. Just going over everything that we had talked about and just happened to stumble on it. I was so glad I didn't have to ship off the ecu or have another modded. Car pulls like mad now. Came back from a car show in Ruidoso, NM this past weekend and a modified Dodge turbo diesel wanted to play on Hwy 54 out of Tularosa. After a couple times of them messing with me, I gave them a smile and tried it. They nailed it and I put it to the floor just as they jumped and I put about 6 cars on them in a freekin' hurry. Burried that speedo in about a second from 55mph. They were all thumbs up and the passenger was shaking his fists and hollering "HELL YEAH, HELL YEAH". It is a blast to drive again.
