The lm1 is $349 list, and has five channels of 0-5 V analog input, but if you want to log rpm you need either the rpm converter (rpm plus 4 channels of 0-5 V analog input) for $99 or the aux box (rpm plus built in map sensor, accelerometer, thermocouple inputs, etc) for $150. I got the rpm converter before the aux box was ready and log rpm, tps, and a 3 bar map sensor, pus wbo2, of course. I tried just using tps to line up the wbo2 with directscan but it works much better with rpm. See
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com for all the details on these and other new products like the digital gauge display, the heat shield bung spacer, and so on.
You will get lots of comments on the 200 vs 400, but my $0.02 comes down to how many miles will you drive it on the street, and how many wot shifts will you make on the street? At your power level my personal belief is that a 200 only has somewhere between 300 and maybe 600 WOT shifts for each gear (300 1-2's, 300 2-3's, etc.). This is based on the experiences of several friends in the 10's to the 12's, my car at 12.0, and 200's from PTS, DelTrans, and a couple of local shops, and watching/helping with at least 30 trans R&R's over the last 3 years for various trans and converter failures. If you are going to turn down the power and not push it on the street a 200 will last a long time. If it's a trailer queen making 75-100 passes a summer on the track, it will last even longer. If you keep the power up and rack up 20-50 wot shifts per weekend, a 200 is hard pressed to last three months. The 400 will last and last and last and the initial install is cheaper than a top of the line built 200. Your car is lighter than most which will help a lot, but even so my recommendation would be to run the 200 til it breaks, then go 400.
I've never personally used a max effort but know at least one friend with a me-r and he loves it. His best et is about 10.8 so far.