Max-boost brake torque launch kit?

[HYBRIDT]

I was reading through the July 2002 GM High Tech Performance magazine and they discuss a brake perportioning valve bypass for supplying full pressure to the rear brakes that was made by Ron's Custom Auto, but I can't find them on the web anywhere. In the magazine they list a website, but it doesn't seem to exist anymore and any links I find online are dead ends. Does anyone know where to get one of these or how to contact Ron's custom auto??

Adam

 

[HYBRIDT]

On a side note, if a guy was going to build one himself, does anyone know if there is corrosion differences between hydraulic fluid (like on tractors and lowriders) and brake fluid?

Thanks in advance

Adam

 

[hogasco]

Adam,

Don't know if this is the kind of thing you are looking for but my dad Dennis (2SLOW) uses a Willwood adjustable valve to put more pressure to the rear breaks at the strip and the proper proportion on the street. Sorry I don't know all the details but I'm sure you know how to get ahold of my dad.

 

[HYBRIDT]

It was just a solenoid that would bypass the perportioning valve when activated. You put a 'T' in the rear brake line before and after the perportioning valve and the solenoid worked like a line lock does except it's closed at rest and open when activated (instead of the other way for a line lock), kinda like a hydraulic "dump". That way you can have max brake pressure for the rears at the light and not have to worry about locking up the rears at the far end after a run. I was mostly concerned about getting a "dump" from a hydraulic system and having the brake fluid ruin the seals. I don't know how corrosive hydraulic fluid is though.

Adam

 

[Big Kahuna]

DOT3 & DOT4 are very corrosive, at least to paint. DOT5 is not -- but Wilwood claims DOT5 isn't high temp enough (although that's what came in m Viper) and since it is silicone -- moisture from condensation won't mix and will cause problems.

I have five racecars ( www.moparstyleracing.com ) and use DOT3 in all of them, as I was told it is the highest temp of the three. I use care bleeding and clean it up with soap and water fast if it gets on anything I care about.

 

[Rickracer]

Just my two cents here...

I think you'd be way better off to just use an adjustable proportioning valve. And even better if you used it in conjunction with a (rear) line lock.

 

[broke1]

They sell these on the other website ,TurboBuicks

They are called a max boost launch kit or something ,go to there online store and youll see it HTH

 

[suburban]

no they don't sell it on the other site. That is a throttle stop so you can launch consistantly at the same boost each time.....

 

[Rickracer]

You probably already know this but...

...if you replace the rear wheel cylinders with '86-87 S10 manual rear brake cylinders (7/8" diameter), that will help. I have also heard that buying a new set of shoes (or 2, if your original ones are worn) and using only the long ones from both sets will help as well. I only have experience with the bigger wheel cylinders.

 

[HYBRIDT]

Already done the S-10 wheel cylinders and 2 long shoes and braided brake lines, but add in the temporary bypass of the perportioning valve with all of these things and slicks and I'd think you'd be close to transbrake area w/out shocking the axles/driveline so much. I think I'm just going to have to build it myself. Thanks though

Adam

 

[Red Regal T]

Are you also using the E-brake at launch?

 

[HYBRIDT]

No, but i'm a BIG boy and it seems as though trying to watch the lights and lean forward to release the brake and hold boost and all the other stuff would be difficult for me to do. Whereas by holding a toggle switch in the center console and holding the brake down wouldn't be too difficult. I'm going to just build one myself using the readily available lowrider hydraulic 'dump' valve that is $45-$65 and some 'T' fittings and I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Damn, just ANOTHER project.

Adam