Manual brake set up done

T- Type Tim

Vice Chairman
Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Finally got this installed, very happy with the weight savings and the extra room. Got this unit from Nick. Thanks Nick!

Also a pic of old unit
mm 077.JPG
 

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Are you using the stock lines with a factory prop valve? Or is that got an internal 50/50 set up on that master and you removed the factory prop valve. Also what brake pedal.
 
More importantly, how's it stop? I have manual brakes on my LS Maverick and quite frankly, the brakes suck! I am in the midst of trying a larger bore front caliper to see if that helps. BTW, my front clip uses GM Metric calipers. The stockers have 2.38" pistons, I just bought a pair of Wilwood 2.75" bore calipers for 35% more area...
 
I have'nt taken it out yet, just bled out the system and rolled it back in garage....didnt want to wake the neighbors up...I plan on taking it out very soon
 
I have'nt taken it out yet, just bled out the system and rolled it back in garage....didnt want to wake the neighbors up...I plan on taking it out very soon

Ive wanted to go to manual brakes for a long time now. Im very interested in how it performs. Keep us posted please!

Scott
 
That factory PB pedal ratio won't give as much mechanical advantage as a manual pedal, but you can always move the pushrod mount up higher to get the ratio up if your brakes are too hard. PB pedals have around a 4.5:1 ratio while manual pedals have around 6.5:1
 
Finally took it out today, put 40 miles on it in stop and go traffic, absolutely no complaints with this setup, even with 3.5" rims up front , this thing stops just fine. With that said , It time to get some c -16 and bring the boost up:)
tr  ssa 001.JPG
 
More importantly, how's it stop? I have manual brakes on my LS Maverick and quite frankly, the brakes suck! I am in the midst of trying a larger bore front caliper to see if that helps. BTW, my front clip uses GM Metric calipers. The stockers have 2.38" pistons, I just bought a pair of Wilwood 2.75" bore calipers for 35% more area...

Russ, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]:eek:
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.

Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2
 
Russ, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]:eek:
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.

Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2

Chuck,

I found that same thread by "MalibuDave" over on hotrodders.com. I ran out of fluid with my 15/16" bore m/c and ordered a 1" bore C3 Corvette master. After "oblonging" the holes so it would fit over the studs, I found it wouldn't clear the valve cover. Now I'm waiting on a 1" bore 1970 F-100 master... I'm not gonna hang a hydroboost off my firewall, so if this doesn't get it, I'll just drive with cr@ppy brakes!
 
Russ, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]:eek:
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.

Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2
Russ, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]:eek:
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.

Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2
Hey Chuck , did you need the proportioning valve because you went to the 7/8 rear wheel cylinder ? and your big bore 2.75" calipers worked well with your hydroboost , eg - hydro boost has enough power / fluid displacement to make them work better then the 2.50" ? thank you
 
Hey Chuck , did you need the proportioning valve because you went to the 7/8 rear wheel cylinder ? and your big bore 2.75" calipers worked well with your hydroboost , eg - hydro boost has enough power / fluid displacement to make them work better then the 2.50" ? thank you

Sorry. I should have clarified how the 55 is set up..:oops:
It has a 9" Ford under it, w/ the 11 x 21/4" drums.
 
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