Make your own adjustable fuel pressure regulator

[87GNSteve]

I attended the ATR auction a few years ago and obtained a few boxes of their Black anodized billet aluminum adjustable pressure regulator tops.
I have offered these on the parts for sale section and some folks were asking if directions were available so here we go.

KEEP REGULATOR INLET AND OUTLET COVERED/SEALED WHILE PERFORMING ALL WORK!! I had some of those soft plastic caps on hand put one over the fuel inlet and outlet I would at this time remove the o ring.

1) Before you cut clamp the top of the regulator as shown in the picture.
I used my Dremel cut off tool maybe a large tubing cutter would work; cut top off of regulator approx. 1/4 inch down from top. A hacksaw might work but I would hate to have to do it that way. Do not cut too deeply, remember there is a spring in there. Try not to damage, dent or bend housing. Inspect the inside of the regulator, look for tears or holes in the diaphram.
I poured some light solvent oil into the camber and let it sit for 30 min, to make sure there were no leaks (see photos)


2) Place the spring back into the lower regulator and place a "cap" on top of the spring before pressing ATR top on. I found a suitable cap at the hardware store they were chrome hole covers another option is a freeze plug a 1in. to 1 1/8 will work. (see pic) (WARNING: The ATR cap is a press fit and very difficult to remove if you do a "trial" fit.)

 

[87GNSteve]

3) Add a thin smear of RTV/sealer to the outside surface of the OEM housing near the rolled lip just before pressing the ATR top on to "ensure" an air tight seal; and aid in smooth assembly since the sealer will act as a lube. IMO the sealer is an option since this press fit is tight but if you have any doubts or the housing is a little bent cut too far down than it is best to rather than risk a leak.

4) Set the ATR top squarely on the lower regulator orient the vac fitting to the front/9 O'clock position (See picture) When you have it position correctly clamp it as tight as you can with your hands.

5) Flip the assembly upside down on the edge of a workbench (protect the surfaces with a rag) with the vac barb over the edge of the bench. Use a soft faced mallet or dead blow hammer and drive the lower regulator into the ATR top. Don't mess this up!

6) Now drill the holes for the set screws. I used a 9/64 drill 1st and finished with a 11/64. After drilling blow out all the holes using compressed air.

7) Screw/seat the 4 "supplied" side set screws with sealer, though the ATR top into the lower regulator, using a 5/32 Allen. I preferred to use a Allen socket since it is easier to drive these in straight with a T handle driver.

8) Add set screw to ATR top ( 1/4-28 thread) with locking nut and 1/4 nylon washer sandwiched between the top and locking nut. Might be a good idea to put on a new O-ring, don't forget to lube it before install.
AND YOUR DONE!!!!

oh yeah....

9) Install on YOUR car and NOW YOUR DONE!!)

 

[87GNSteve]

On the car.
I chose a chrome hex head set screw since I have been caught with out my Allen keys while at the track. And the Chrome looks nice.
So now adjustments can be made with an adjustable wrench or even pliers (EEK)

 

[87GNSteve]

Just another "Development" I discovered a way to remove the top after its been fit as long as the spring and cap are inside and the cap is on. Turn down the adjusting screw and the spring pressure will push the top off enough for you to pry it off with your hands.
This aids in cleaning out the chips after drilling if you don't have compressed air.
If you put the top on with out the spring and cap inside then your SOL and have to use YOFP*.

(*Your own friggin procedure.):tongue:

 

[getchasum]

Good write up Steve....I ordered two and will be needing it once they get here.

Also was wondering what kind of max pressure someone could expect to get once the mod is completed?

 

[87GNSteve]

Good write up Steve....I ordered two and will be needing it once they get here.

Also was wondering what kind of max pressure someone could expect to get once the mod is completed?

I could only guess what max pressure would be there are a few variables.
The length of the adjuster screw you use if not long enough it will be on the weak side with it being screwed all the way down. The type of spring cap you choose also takes up some space inside the chamber.
So thick spring cap + long adjuster screw = higher pressure adjustments.
BUT you don't want to have to crank it down until the spring is in coil bind.
I basically copied an aftermarket one.
It is OK to remove the adjuster screw and swap it with a longer or shorter one the spring and cap will be held in place buy the Reg cap.

 

[87GNSteve]

UPDATE:
These tops also fit the popular 88-93 Mustang GT style regulator, which in turn fits TONS of cars.

CHRYSLER
1983 - 1984 E CLASS

1983 - 1985 LEBARON
1984 - 1985 LASER
1983 - 1985 NEW YORKER

DODGE
1983 400
1984 - 1985 DAYTONA
1983 - 1985 600
1985 LANCER
1983 - 1985 ARIES

1985 OMNI
1983 - 1985 CHARGER

FORD
1986 - 1995 AEROSTAR
1981 F-150
1997 ASPIRE
1985 - 1995 F-150
1985 - 1993 BRONCO
1985 - 1993 F-250
1987 - 1991 COUNTRY SQUIRE
1995 F-250
1992 - 1995 CROWN VICTORIA
1988 - 1993 F-350
1986 - 1993 E-150 ECONOLINE
1995 F-350
1995 E-150 ECONOLINE
1988 - 1993 F53 STRIPPED CHASSIS
1986 - 1993 E-250 ECONOLINE

1986 LTD
1995 E-250 ECONOLINE
1987 - 1991 LTD CROWN VICTORIA
1988 - 1993 E-350 ECONOLINE
1983 - 1993 MUSTANG
1995 E-350 ECONOLINE
1985 - 1994 RANGER
1983 - 1996 ESCORT
1986 - 1995 TAURUS
1983 - 1988 EXP
1992 - 1994 TEMPO
1990 - 1993 F SUPER DUTY
1983 - 1995 THUNDERBIRD

LINCOLN
1986 - 1994 CONTINENTAL
1993 - 1994 MARK VIII
1986 - 1992 MARK VII
1986 - 1994 TOWN CAR

MAZDA
1994 - 1997 B2300

MERCURY
1983 - 1984 CAPRI
1983 - 1987 LYNX
1986 CAPRI
1986 - 1993 SABLE
1986 - 1991 COLONY PARK
1992 - 1994 TOPAZ
1984 - 1994 COUGAR
1991 - 1996 TRACER
1986 - 1994 GRAND MARQUIS

MERKUR
1985 - 1989 XR4TI

PLYMOUTH
1985 CARAVELLE
1983 - 1985 RELIANT
1983 - 1985 HORIZON

 

[bmackinnon]

I could only guess what max pressure would be there are a few variables....

...BUT you don't want to have to crank it down until the spring is in coil bind.

FWIW, If you crank it down 'til the the coils bind, then the pressure will be whatever the pump will put out, as the return line flow will be blocked off completely.... THIS would be max pressure..... :wink:

 

[sd-slider]

Great write-up!

I ended up with a bitchin' AFPR and saved a few ends to apply to my next mod.

I thought I would share a couple items if anyone is interested in taking a few more steps and be equally anal as myself...:tongue:

Note to add:

I would highly recommend removing the top after you drill the holes to physically remove any metal shavings that get caught around the perimeter of the seal in the base of the FPR(especiallly if you have ANY moisture in there from the solvent or any other cleaning agent...). I noticed the shavings collected around the rubber seal on the outside edge inside the chamber and could possibly cause premature wear of the seal in the FPR. I used a combination of air and a magnet to remove them all, slowly depressing the plunger on the outside edges as I walked the magnet around the edge.

Once removed, re-assemble and apply the RTV sealant, press the cover on, then re-align the holes with the shank end of the last drill bit you used.

I also re-used the top that was cut off for the pressure plate.

In a nutshell:
- I took the leftover top and cut off the retaining end(nipple) of the vacuum line inlet, stuck the leftover piece in a drill press using said vacuum inlet, and at a slow speed, removed the rough edges and "trued" up the piece until it was round and had enough clearance to fit inside the new top.
- I then put the old top in a vice and slowly drilled down the shaft until there was a nice bevel/countersunk surface where the shaft once was(don't remove too much....) just enough to leave a good seat for the end of the adjustment screw.
- I then put the screw, head first, in the drill press chuck and filed the end to a nice bevel to match the seat that was created above.

Worked out really nice since the old top has a matched seat to the existing spring.

Sorry I didn't take any pics....I was so excited to get it together and forgot to.

Thanks again Steve for the tops, and, the instructions on how to install them.

=Eric

 

[87GNSteve]

TTT I still have some of these left if any one is interested. Still only $10 shipped.

Thanks for the additional info SD Slider if you use a small hole saw on a drill press to cut the to it is easy to use the reg top as a spring depressor.