I’ve been wondering about the location of the MAF sensor in or GN’s, I have the cold air kit that puts the filter under the driverside bumper. The MAF sensor is located in the tubing BEFORE the turbo. I think this is a stock location. So I am thinking that, due to boost, the air coming into the filter is very different than the air going into the intake. So why isn’t the MAF sensor located just outside the intake (maybe before the alcohol spray?) I had always thought that the MAP info went to the ecm which somehow adjusted for boost but I recently found out that the original MAP sensor just fed the dashboard gauge. Maybe somehow all the ecm needs to know is the volume and temp of air entering the system? Is it that even though compressed, the VOLUME of oxygen is unchanged? But after compression and then intercooling the temperature of the incoming air must be very different too? How does this work?
MAF sensor location
- Thread starter Tom Kelly
- Start date
captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
The only way the MASS of air going into the intake could be different than the MASS of air going through the MAF sensor is if there was a second way for air to get in.
The MASS of air doesn't change when it's compressed the VOLUME does. Since the mixture is determined by weight (MASS) not volume that's what you need to measure.
For instance the stoichiometric mixture of gasoline is 14.7:1. That means for every POUNDof gas you burn you would burn 14.7 POUNDS of air.
The MASS of air doesn't change when it's compressed the VOLUME does. Since the mixture is determined by weight (MASS) not volume that's what you need to measure.
For instance the stoichiometric mixture of gasoline is 14.7:1. That means for every POUNDof gas you burn you would burn 14.7 POUNDS of air.
Thanks for you simple but elegant response. I sort of suspected that the air in ha to be the air out. What about the temperature change Where is the Inlet Air Temperature taken? And does the change in temperature from the MAF to the intercooler output affect fueling calculations in any way?
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
I ran my car with the maf in the up pipe before the alky nozzle for a long time. The car ran GREAT. The main reason I did this was to stop fuel from being triggered when coming off boost. My car would shutter pretty bad when the horse sneezed.
That problem was completely eliminated and the over all drivability was improved.
Plain and simple, it works.
That problem was completely eliminated and the over all drivability was improved.
Plain and simple, it works.
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Very interesting. That makes total sense to me as the MAF is reporting on EXACTLY what's going into the mouth of the beast. I also thought that BEFORE the ALKY would be the way to go. Do you have any pictures of how you accomplished this (the actual plumbing)?
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Google is your friend.
www.turbobuick.com
MAF Relocation
Try this link. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126494
Thanks for the link. I will dive deeper into this idea. I don't have the problem of pressure running back through the plumbing to the MAF mentioned in the post. In fact I don't have any problem at all. (Drivability is superb as is the WOT performance) I was asking more from an engineering perspective as mounting it closer to the intake seemed like the way it should have started out. On the subject, what are the pros/cons of shifting to a LT-1 with translator over stock MAF?Google is your friend.
MAF Relocation
Try this link. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126494
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
No end to updates and improvements to our GN's. Just got my powerlogger and wideband installed. Waiting for the rain to stop to try them out.
So I just had a look. I have a tin-man cold air intake with the charcoal canister still in place. The plumbing for the stock MAF looks to me to be a original. The pipe works out to be about 3.3" diameter. Picture attached. In this case is converting to the LT-1 with translator a genuine plug and play? No cutting, no wiring, just take out old and put in new? If so I assume the translator is just an intermediary on way to ecm? Do we have to cut the existing wiring from the MAF to splice in the translator? I see the translator has connectors at both ends so I am hoping that this means that the existing wiring doesn't go all the way to the ecm but also has connector somewhere under the hood and the translator fitss in the middle? I'm terrible at wiring that's why I ask.
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captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
The standard translator is strictly plug and play. The LT1 MAF sensors send a different signal than the stock MAF and has to be translated for the ECM to read it. Ditch the stock MAF ASAP and get an LT1 and translator before your'e left stranded.
Ordered the MAF and translator this morning. Thanks
RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2007
The stock plastic MAFs blowup when placed under boost. But it is OK with the newer aluminum MAFs.
RemoveBeforeFlight
captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
Personally I never had a problem with the MAF sensor in the stock location. I did have a BOV. I don't think I'd feel comfortable placing it in a pressurized environment it wasn't designed for but it seems to work for those who have done it.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Mine LS1 maf was good with 25psi +
They are made out thicker aluminum than the inter cooler pipe.
Do you think a 6.0 truck maf would stand up to boost? I think its plastic. 30psi?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
The sensor is not in the up pipe, and doesn't see boost... At least in most cases.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Not in a blow through configuration.